Another wheel day (and so on).
But first.
When building wheels with PowerTap hubs at our shop, we've been doing
"overhauls that involve pressing out cartridge bearings from the hub body" and
"replacing the half-hearted tape wrapped around the shaft magnet with heat-shrink tubing,"
but we've received a request from Kirschvelk Inc. asking us to stop doing these two things,
so we won't be doing them going forward.
We apologize for the inconvenience, and thank you for your understanding.
During our correspondence about this,
I asked several questions like
"what's okay to do?" and
"for example, is this safe to do?"
and they said that greasing without pressing out bearings is fine
(if bearing replacement is needed,
we'll be handling that with Kirschvelk).
Also, they said wire soldering wasn't specifically prohibited.
In addition to that, I received some useful advice about
wheel building with PowerTap hubs,
which I'll put to use in future builds.
One thing that came up was that
reverse Italian lacing is recommended under certain dynamic conditions,
and I was curious about it, so I put PowerTap wheel building on hold
and built some wheels on my personal SL+ hub
to test and verify various things.
It looks like Wheelbuilder.com's PowerTap hub wheels use JIS lacing,
while Wiggle's off-the-shelf PowerTap hub wheels use reverse Italian as standard—
I think I can sort of see the reasoning behind these choices now.
However, regarding the direction relationship between inpokes and outpokes in tangent lacing,
there's apparently no specific manufacturer specification,
so I'll keep using Italian lacing going forward (for rim-brake wheels).
But if a customer requests it, I'll build them in reverse Italian, JIS, or whatever they prefer,
so please let me know if that's the case.
Another wheel day (and so on).
A customer entrusted us with a PowerTap G3 hub.
This one's brand new, so there's nothing special to do.
We're building Nomulab Wheel #5 with this.
Built.
24H, semi-comp, 1246 Italian lacing with wiring.
It was a long road getting here...
I used up a fair bit of my "so-called Obon break."
Built the front wheel too.
Leif hub, 20H, CX-RAY outpoke radial lacing.
But first.
When building wheels with PowerTap hubs at our shop, we've been doing
"overhauls that involve pressing out cartridge bearings from the hub body" and
"replacing the half-hearted tape wrapped around the shaft magnet with heat-shrink tubing,"
but we've received a request from Kirschvelk Inc. asking us to stop doing these two things,
so we won't be doing them going forward.
We apologize for the inconvenience, and thank you for your understanding.
During our correspondence about this,
I asked several questions like
"what's okay to do?" and
"for example, is this safe to do?"
and they said that greasing without pressing out bearings is fine
(if bearing replacement is needed,
we'll be handling that with Kirschvelk).
Also, they said wire soldering wasn't specifically prohibited.
In addition to that, I received some useful advice about
wheel building with PowerTap hubs,
which I'll put to use in future builds.
One thing that came up was that
reverse Italian lacing is recommended under certain dynamic conditions,
and I was curious about it, so I put PowerTap wheel building on hold
and built some wheels on my personal SL+ hub
to test and verify various things.
It looks like Wheelbuilder.com's PowerTap hub wheels use JIS lacing,
while Wiggle's off-the-shelf PowerTap hub wheels use reverse Italian as standard—
I think I can sort of see the reasoning behind these choices now.
However, regarding the direction relationship between inpokes and outpokes in tangent lacing,
there's apparently no specific manufacturer specification,
so I'll keep using Italian lacing going forward (for rim-brake wheels).
But if a customer requests it, I'll build them in reverse Italian, JIS, or whatever they prefer,
so please let me know if that's the case.
Another wheel day (and so on).
A customer entrusted us with a PowerTap G3 hub.
This one's brand new, so there's nothing special to do.
We're building Nomulab Wheel #5 with this.
Built.
24H, semi-comp, 1246 Italian lacing with wiring.
It was a long road getting here...
I used up a fair bit of my "so-called Obon break."
Built the front wheel too.
Leif hub, 20H, CX-RAY outpoke radial lacing.