So a transfer is possible.
L.E.D. lighting—done
Well, I guess I have no choice. Let me pass it along.
Added March 29th below
I wanted to build the old Nomu Lab Wheel #2, but the wholesaler only has a small stock of the old rims (19.1mm width) in 24H.
The weight difference from the new rim (20.5mm width) is about 40g, so out of 100 pieces it's plausible, but even if I pull out the heaviest old rim from 10 pieces and the lightest new rim from 10 pieces, there's still a noticeable gap where the old rim comes out lighter.
Since I have an unridden personal front wheel built with the old rim from Nomu Lab Wheel #2, I proposed to the customer that if the front rim would work for them, I could pass it along. They said OK, so it'll be transferred. However, since the customer's wishes differ from the current specs, it needs to be rebuilt.
To wrap up the title:
Nomu Lab Wheels #1 and #2, and #4 and #6, have different rim inner diameters but differ in whether the nipples are externally mounted or internal, and as a result—purely by accident—the spoke lengths come out nearly identical.
In other words, transferring the rim from Nomu Lab Wheel #2 to Wheel #1 is theoretically possible.
Theoretically possible = I'd never actually done it before, but this time I was forced to try it.
So anyway, another day of wheelbuil— (and so on).
My personal Nomu Lab Wheel #2 front wheel.
Building it had value in itself, so I could have used it, but I ended up not using it.
The brake shoes have never once touched the rim,
and the tire is mounted, but it hasn't run a meter.
It's glued on with rim cement, and since the customer is also a rim cement person, there's no problem.
Black hub 20H, Hoshi Aero Star Bright II, outpoke radial laced with the rim holes deliberately built in reverse.
Rim transferred.
The reason I prioritized my personal build was that I didn't want to leave it in that sea-urchin state with spokes sticking out of the hub. Apologies.
The rim is the gold rim from Nomu Lab Wheel #1, and
the nipples areusually despised black aluminum nipples.
Again, the rim holes are deliberately built in reverse.
I already have the matching rear wheel for this. Also unused, of course.
Whether it gets used or not, either way is fine, but I need to keep it on hand as a kind of measuring stick for certain purposes.
The rear wheel is built as a standard rim.
Nomu Lab Wheel #2 front wheel is complete.
Black hub 20H, CX-RAY four-cross Italian laced.
Standard rim setup, just so you know.
Even though the spokes aren't CX or Aero SB II, there's a reason I went with the slotted-hole Black hub. It's not about the flange holes—this hub is equivalent to the Novatech 482 (not 482SL), where the end cap has a bolt-and-nut relationship with the hub shaft rather than being press-fit, giving it no play, and it has large-diameter bearings. I was paying attention to those points.
By the way, this wasn't my proposal. The customer had the insight. And four-cross lacing is nice too. Hehehe.
On a completely unrelated note, I received a comment suggesting that I try installing the measuring stylus from the one I've been using on the new center gauge. The size is the same, so it would be possible. But the plating on the tip of the measuring stylus has flaked off in places, and I felt it looked unseemly getting shot in close-up, so that was also a reason for buying a new one. I won't throw it away, but I'm going to get used to the new one.
↑Offsetting it like this makes it a bit easier to see.
Thanks for the comment.
L.E.D. lighting—done
Well, I guess I have no choice. Let me pass it along.
Added March 29th below
I wanted to build the old Nomu Lab Wheel #2, but the wholesaler only has a small stock of the old rims (19.1mm width) in 24H.
The weight difference from the new rim (20.5mm width) is about 40g, so out of 100 pieces it's plausible, but even if I pull out the heaviest old rim from 10 pieces and the lightest new rim from 10 pieces, there's still a noticeable gap where the old rim comes out lighter.
Since I have an unridden personal front wheel built with the old rim from Nomu Lab Wheel #2, I proposed to the customer that if the front rim would work for them, I could pass it along. They said OK, so it'll be transferred. However, since the customer's wishes differ from the current specs, it needs to be rebuilt.
To wrap up the title:
Nomu Lab Wheels #1 and #2, and #4 and #6, have different rim inner diameters but differ in whether the nipples are externally mounted or internal, and as a result—purely by accident—the spoke lengths come out nearly identical.
In other words, transferring the rim from Nomu Lab Wheel #2 to Wheel #1 is theoretically possible.
Theoretically possible = I'd never actually done it before, but this time I was forced to try it.
So anyway, another day of wheelbuil— (and so on).
My personal Nomu Lab Wheel #2 front wheel.
Building it had value in itself, so I could have used it, but I ended up not using it.
The brake shoes have never once touched the rim,
and the tire is mounted, but it hasn't run a meter.
It's glued on with rim cement, and since the customer is also a rim cement person, there's no problem.
Black hub 20H, Hoshi Aero Star Bright II, outpoke radial laced with the rim holes deliberately built in reverse.
Rim transferred.
The reason I prioritized my personal build was that I didn't want to leave it in that sea-urchin state with spokes sticking out of the hub. Apologies.
The rim is the gold rim from Nomu Lab Wheel #1, and
the nipples are
Again, the rim holes are deliberately built in reverse.
I already have the matching rear wheel for this. Also unused, of course.
Whether it gets used or not, either way is fine, but I need to keep it on hand as a kind of measuring stick for certain purposes.
The rear wheel is built as a standard rim.
Nomu Lab Wheel #2 front wheel is complete.
Black hub 20H, CX-RAY four-cross Italian laced.
Standard rim setup, just so you know.
Even though the spokes aren't CX or Aero SB II, there's a reason I went with the slotted-hole Black hub. It's not about the flange holes—this hub is equivalent to the Novatech 482 (not 482SL), where the end cap has a bolt-and-nut relationship with the hub shaft rather than being press-fit, giving it no play, and it has large-diameter bearings. I was paying attention to those points.
By the way, this wasn't my proposal. The customer had the insight. And four-cross lacing is nice too. Hehehe.
On a completely unrelated note, I received a comment suggesting that I try installing the measuring stylus from the one I've been using on the new center gauge. The size is the same, so it would be possible. But the plating on the tip of the measuring stylus has flaked off in places, and I felt it looked unseemly getting shot in close-up, so that was also a reason for buying a new one. I won't throw it away, but I'm going to get used to the new one.
↑Offsetting it like this makes it a bit easier to see.
Thanks for the comment.