So it's possible to relocate.
L.E.D. lighting finished
Well, I guess I have no choice. I'll pass it along.
The following is an addendum from March 29th
I want to build the old Nomu Lab Wheel #2, but the distributor
only has minimal stock of the old rims (19.1mm width) in 24H.
The weight difference with the new rims (20.5mm width) is about 40g, so
among 100, it's possible, but
even if I pull out the heaviest old rim from 10
and the lightest new rim from 10,
there's still quite a gap with the old rim being lighter.
Since I have an unridden personal front wheel built with
the old rim from the Nomu Lab Wheel #2, I proposed to the customer
that the front rim could be that one if it would work,
and they gave the OK, so I'm passing it along.
However, since the customer's preferences differ from the current specs,
I need to rebuild it.
To address the title:
Nomu Lab Wheels #1 and #2, and #4 and #6
have different rim inner diameters, but differ in whether the nipples are external or internal,
and as a result, quite by coincidence, the spoke length comes out nearly the same.
In other words, theoretically relocating the rim from Nomu Lab Wheel #2 to Wheel #1 is possible.
Theoretically possible = I'd never done it before, but
I was forced to do it this time.
So today it's wheels again (and so on).
My personal Nomu Lab Wheel #2 front wheel.
Building it had significance in itself, so
I could have used it, but in the end I haven't.
The brake shoes have never once touched the rim,
and the tire is glued on but hasn't gone a meter.
It's glued with rim cement, and the customer is also a rim cement person, so no problem.
Black hub 20H, Hoshi Aero Star Bright II, reverse non-crossed radial lacing
with the holes intentionally laced in reverse.
The rim has relocated.
I prioritized building my personal wheel because I didn't want to leave it
in a sea-urchin state with spokes sticking out of the hub. My apologies.
The rim is the gold rim from Nomu Lab Wheel #1, and
the nipples areones I normally abhor black aluminum nipples.
Again, the holes are intentionally laced in reverse.
The matching rear wheel for this already exists. Still unused as well.
Whether I use it or not doesn't really matter,
but I need to keep it on hand because it serves as a kind of measuring stick.
The rear wheel is built as a standard rim.
The Nomu Lab Wheel #2 front wheel is built.
Black hub 20H, CX-RAY 44 Italian laced.
Built as a standard rim, just to be clear.
Even though the spokes aren't CX or Aero SB II,
there's a reason for choosing a Black hub with slitted holes.
It's not about the flange holes—
this hub is equivalent to a Novatech 482 (not 482SL),
and rather than the end being a slip fit, the relationship between hub shaft and end
is like a bolt and nut relationship with no play,
and it has larger bearing size. That's what I paid attention to.
Though this wasn't my proposal—it was the customer's keen eye.
The 4-spoke lacing is nice too. Hehe.
On a completely unrelated note,
I received a comment suggesting that regarding the taper machining of the measuring tip
on the new center gauge, why not try attaching the measuring tip from the one I was using before?
The size is the same, so it would be possible.
But the plating on the tip of the measuring stylus is chipped in places, and shooting close-ups of that
seemed unsightly, which was also part of the reason for buying a new one.
So while I won't throw it away, I'm thinking I'll get used to the new one.
↑Offsetting it like this makes it slightly easier to see.
Thank you for the comment.
L.E.D. lighting finished
Well, I guess I have no choice. I'll pass it along.
The following is an addendum from March 29th
I want to build the old Nomu Lab Wheel #2, but the distributor
only has minimal stock of the old rims (19.1mm width) in 24H.
The weight difference with the new rims (20.5mm width) is about 40g, so
among 100, it's possible, but
even if I pull out the heaviest old rim from 10
and the lightest new rim from 10,
there's still quite a gap with the old rim being lighter.
Since I have an unridden personal front wheel built with
the old rim from the Nomu Lab Wheel #2, I proposed to the customer
that the front rim could be that one if it would work,
and they gave the OK, so I'm passing it along.
However, since the customer's preferences differ from the current specs,
I need to rebuild it.
To address the title:
Nomu Lab Wheels #1 and #2, and #4 and #6
have different rim inner diameters, but differ in whether the nipples are external or internal,
and as a result, quite by coincidence, the spoke length comes out nearly the same.
In other words, theoretically relocating the rim from Nomu Lab Wheel #2 to Wheel #1 is possible.
Theoretically possible = I'd never done it before, but
I was forced to do it this time.
So today it's wheels again (and so on).
My personal Nomu Lab Wheel #2 front wheel.
Building it had significance in itself, so
I could have used it, but in the end I haven't.
The brake shoes have never once touched the rim,
and the tire is glued on but hasn't gone a meter.
It's glued with rim cement, and the customer is also a rim cement person, so no problem.
Black hub 20H, Hoshi Aero Star Bright II, reverse non-crossed radial lacing
with the holes intentionally laced in reverse.
The rim has relocated.
I prioritized building my personal wheel because I didn't want to leave it
in a sea-urchin state with spokes sticking out of the hub. My apologies.
The rim is the gold rim from Nomu Lab Wheel #1, and
the nipples are
Again, the holes are intentionally laced in reverse.
The matching rear wheel for this already exists. Still unused as well.
Whether I use it or not doesn't really matter,
but I need to keep it on hand because it serves as a kind of measuring stick.
The rear wheel is built as a standard rim.
The Nomu Lab Wheel #2 front wheel is built.
Black hub 20H, CX-RAY 44 Italian laced.
Built as a standard rim, just to be clear.
Even though the spokes aren't CX or Aero SB II,
there's a reason for choosing a Black hub with slitted holes.
It's not about the flange holes—
this hub is equivalent to a Novatech 482 (not 482SL),
and rather than the end being a slip fit, the relationship between hub shaft and end
is like a bolt and nut relationship with no play,
and it has larger bearing size. That's what I paid attention to.
Though this wasn't my proposal—it was the customer's keen eye.
The 4-spoke lacing is nice too. Hehe.
On a completely unrelated note,
I received a comment suggesting that regarding the taper machining of the measuring tip
on the new center gauge, why not try attaching the measuring tip from the one I was using before?
The size is the same, so it would be possible.
But the plating on the tip of the measuring stylus is chipped in places, and shooting close-ups of that
seemed unsightly, which was also part of the reason for buying a new one.
So while I won't throw it away, I'm thinking I'll get used to the new one.
↑Offsetting it like this makes it slightly easier to see.
Thank you for the comment.