Another wheel building day (and so on).
Continuing from yesterday.
I built a rear wheel using GlowTack's 40mm tall tubeless-ready rim.
Chris King R45D hub, 24 hole
Black half CX Sprint, 4-cross JIS lacing
with gold aluminum nipples.
I'll do the spoke wrapping later.
The hub I received is new,
but it's a fairly recent manufacture.
The cone locknut is smaller than the inner diameter of the outer-mounted lock ring that goes on the centerlock rotor seat,
so you don't need to remove the cone locknut
when attaching and detaching the disc rotor.
This spec is relatively new.
Another way to tell is that the bolt head securing the cone locknut
has a Torx hole, and can be turned with an Allen key for that purpose.
The hole for inserting a pin to turn the nut
is positioned opposite the bolt's phase.
↑By contrast, the older model has a hex hole in the securing bolt,
and the pin hole is on the same side as the bolt.
With this spec, you need to temporarily remove the cone locknut
when attaching and detaching the lock ring (and disc rotor).
Continuing from yesterday.
I built a rear wheel using GlowTack's 40mm tall tubeless-ready rim.
Chris King R45D hub, 24 hole
Black half CX Sprint, 4-cross JIS lacing
with gold aluminum nipples.
I'll do the spoke wrapping later.
The hub I received is new,
but it's a fairly recent manufacture.
The cone locknut is smaller than the inner diameter of the outer-mounted lock ring that goes on the centerlock rotor seat,
so you don't need to remove the cone locknut
when attaching and detaching the disc rotor.
This spec is relatively new.
Another way to tell is that the bolt head securing the cone locknut
has a Torx hole, and can be turned with an Allen key for that purpose.
The hole for inserting a pin to turn the nut
is positioned opposite the bolt's phase.
↑By contrast, the older model has a hex hole in the securing bolt,
and the pin hole is on the same side as the bolt.
With this spec, you need to temporarily remove the cone locknut
when attaching and detaching the lock ring (and disc rotor).