A customer dropped off a Kシリウム SL (Mavic wheel) with me.
This is the third generation of the flagship Kシリウム,
the second generation of the Kシリウム SL,
and the first model in silver finish.
There's barely any sign of use, but you can't jump to conclusions.
The customer wants a hub overhaul, truing, and centering.
The owner of this wheel hasn't actually seen it in person yet.
I'll let you figure out what that means.
↑Shimano freehub.
On the rear wheel, the six adjustment holes for bearing adjustment are naturally on the left side,
and the hub sticker reads correctly when facing the direction of travel.
If I apply that same rule to the front wheel, the axle is installed backwards,
so I'll quietly fix that while I'm checking the bearings.
When I spun the rim, it rattled, but what was inside wasn't
metal shavings but rather white sand-like grains.
This is mainly flaked-off thread-lock compound that has separated from the inside of the rim—
it didn't come from outside.
You sometimes see this come out when you shake the rim during tire changes,
so it's worth checking on occasionally.
I cleaned up the rim sides using the secret technique of auction house polish (wet method).
Someone asked me in a comment how to do this,
but I can't really explain it.
To quote a bit:
「The other day, I was scrubbing a wheel I was listing with a soft stone,
and it took way longer than expected.」
(original text preserved, strikethrough included).
↑They were totally planning to use this for shady purposes!
But if someone said to me "Your technique name 'secret auction house polish' was designed for shady purposes too!"
I'd have nothing to say in return.
It's nice that I'm censoring different parts of the text anyway.
The wet method basically uses Mavic soft stone.
The axle had picked up a little rust bloom,
but the bearings themselves were fine.
I wiped them with oil and then applied fresh grease.
Done.
The front wheel had some runout, but more importantly
it was off-center to a record-breaking degree.
Kシリウム wheels have coarse-pitch nipples,
so if you get caught up in truing and tighten just one side,
the center gets thrown off right away.
The rear wheel was perfectly centered with virtually no runout.
The rim sides look nice (monotone voice).
Since the owner changed I've also swapped the Shimano freehub for a Campagnolo one.
The Mavic FTS-L freehub body
has a small washer between the freehub body and hub shell,
and it's a super critical functional component—without it the wheel won't work.
It's easy to lose if you don't know about it,
but the washer that came with this freehub body
had been given a minor design change to make it harder to lose.
This is the third generation of the flagship Kシリウム,
the second generation of the Kシリウム SL,
and the first model in silver finish.
There's barely any sign of use, but you can't jump to conclusions.
The customer wants a hub overhaul, truing, and centering.
The owner of this wheel hasn't actually seen it in person yet.
I'll let you figure out what that means.
↑Shimano freehub.
On the rear wheel, the six adjustment holes for bearing adjustment are naturally on the left side,
and the hub sticker reads correctly when facing the direction of travel.
If I apply that same rule to the front wheel, the axle is installed backwards,
so I'll quietly fix that while I'm checking the bearings.
When I spun the rim, it rattled, but what was inside wasn't
metal shavings but rather white sand-like grains.
This is mainly flaked-off thread-lock compound that has separated from the inside of the rim—
it didn't come from outside.
You sometimes see this come out when you shake the rim during tire changes,
so it's worth checking on occasionally.
I cleaned up the rim sides using the secret technique of auction house polish (wet method).
Someone asked me in a comment how to do this,
but I can't really explain it.
To quote a bit:
「
and it took way longer than expected.」
(original text preserved, strikethrough included).
↑They were totally planning to use this for shady purposes!
But if someone said to me "Your technique name 'secret auction house polish' was designed for shady purposes too!"
I'd have nothing to say in return.
It's nice that I'm censoring different parts of the text anyway.
The wet method basically uses Mavic soft stone.
The axle had picked up a little rust bloom,
but the bearings themselves were fine.
I wiped them with oil and then applied fresh grease.
Done.
The front wheel had some runout, but more importantly
it was off-center to a record-breaking degree.
Kシリウム wheels have coarse-pitch nipples,
so if you get caught up in truing and tighten just one side,
the center gets thrown off right away.
The rear wheel was perfectly centered with virtually no runout.
The rim sides look nice (monotone voice).
The Mavic FTS-L freehub body
has a small washer between the freehub body and hub shell,
and it's a super critical functional component—without it the wheel won't work.
It's easy to lose if you don't know about it,
but the washer that came with this freehub body
had been given a minor design change to make it harder to lose.