Another day with wheels (and so on).
A customer left me the rear wheel of a Nomu Lab Wheel No. 5 to work on.
It's a Record 32H hub with a full 1x8 build, but they wanted just the freewheel side to use Champion spokes instead.
Heh heh, excellent.
They're deliberately requesting a heavier-weight spec just to incorporate asymmetrical spoke diameters...
I haven't had time for experimental wheel builds lately, but this job gives me one sample to gather data—what happens when you swap out the freewheel-side spokes while keeping tension the same, and how much more tension can the non-freewheel side handle?
Built it.
And then, following that...
They also wanted me to convert it to CULT, so I did that too.
This was actually the main request I initially heard about.
Campagnolo complete-build wheels—there's no way the ball races get pressed in after wheel building.
You can't build a wheel without assembling the hub first.
Plus, when wheel building pulls on the hub flanges, the bearing play gets looser (lighter tension, sometimes even play develops).
How much this happens depends on the bearing type, flange geometry, and of course spoke tension.
So technically, doing the CULT conversion might be better on the bare hub before lacing the wheel,
but this time I did it after the wheel was already built.
If you adjust the bearing play on the bare hub to be "just barely loose within the no-play range," play will develop once you start building the wheel.
That makes it awkward to use the centering gauge, so that's not why I built the wheel first...
Whether it's a pressing issue or not, Campagnolo hubs sometimes shift their wheel center slightly when you swap out ball races.
This wheel actually did shift center.
Of course I corrected it afterward.
The amount of deviation was minimal
(though the centering gauge could still detect it).
A customer left me the rear wheel of a Nomu Lab Wheel No. 5 to work on.
It's a Record 32H hub with a full 1x8 build, but they wanted just the freewheel side to use Champion spokes instead.
Heh heh, excellent.
They're deliberately requesting a heavier-weight spec just to incorporate asymmetrical spoke diameters...
I haven't had time for experimental wheel builds lately, but this job gives me one sample to gather data—what happens when you swap out the freewheel-side spokes while keeping tension the same, and how much more tension can the non-freewheel side handle?
Built it.
And then, following that...
They also wanted me to convert it to CULT, so I did that too.
This was actually the main request I initially heard about.
Campagnolo complete-build wheels—there's no way the ball races get pressed in after wheel building.
You can't build a wheel without assembling the hub first.
Plus, when wheel building pulls on the hub flanges, the bearing play gets looser (lighter tension, sometimes even play develops).
How much this happens depends on the bearing type, flange geometry, and of course spoke tension.
So technically, doing the CULT conversion might be better on the bare hub before lacing the wheel,
but this time I did it after the wheel was already built.
If you adjust the bearing play on the bare hub to be "just barely loose within the no-play range," play will develop once you start building the wheel.
That makes it awkward to use the centering gauge, so that's not why I built the wheel first...
Whether it's a pressing issue or not, Campagnolo hubs sometimes shift their wheel center slightly when you swap out ball races.
This wheel actually did shift center.
Of course I corrected it afterward.
The amount of deviation was minimal
(though the centering gauge could still detect it).