Another wheel day (etc.).
I built Nomu Lab Wheel No. 5 using a Circus Monkey disc hub.
The front wheel is an HDW2 hub, 24H, all-black Campagnolo Revo, laced in reverse Italian cross pattern.
It's quite a pronounced high-low hub.
The notches in the flanges—whether they're for weight reduction, design, or stress relief—I can't say for certain,
but when threading J-bend spokes through the low-side flange, without these notches you'd need to
bend the spokes (within their elastic limit, of course),
so they're helpful just from a workability standpoint when building the wheel.
I've finished building the rear wheel too.
HDW2+ hub, 24H, all-black Campagnolo, laced in 4-cross JIS pattern.
I'll do the lacing later.
It doesn't look like a high-low flange hub, but it subtly is one.
The diameter difference is 3.5mm,
whereas the manufacturer's stated specs are 60/56.5mm,
but my actual measured dimensions came out to 59.5/56mm.
This isn't to say that measurements always differ from the manufacturer's specs.
It's not really a Shimano standard, but
with Shimano hubs, the difference doesn't even reach 0.1mm.
When I looked up spoke lengths using both the manufacturer's specs and my own measurements,
I found a difference of about 0.1mm on the freewheel side and about 0.3mm on the non-freewheel side.
Fortunately, this falls within the range that nipple threads can absorb.
I also measured the flange width directly rather than trusting the specs,
so those differences compound the issue.
The rear hub over-locknut dimension is listed as 135mm,
but it actually came up slightly short.
What I'm getting at is: don't trust the manufacturer's specs.
Especially the rim inner diameter marked on DT rim stickers—they're notoriously inaccurate.
If you trust those, you'll waste a whole set of spokes.
The slot for flat spokes is cut at an angle, so depending on the rim inner diameter and lacing pattern,
there's a possibility that spokes could be pulled along the slot direction.
But in practice this would only happen with true radial lacing,
and that's not possible with a 24H hub, so there's essentially no problem.
In the hole shown in the image, the spoke direction and slot are facing almost 180° apart,
but with the paired spoke that has the final crossing with this one,
↑it looks like this.
I built Nomu Lab Wheel No. 5 using a Circus Monkey disc hub.
The front wheel is an HDW2 hub, 24H, all-black Campagnolo Revo, laced in reverse Italian cross pattern.
It's quite a pronounced high-low hub.
The notches in the flanges—whether they're for weight reduction, design, or stress relief—I can't say for certain,
but when threading J-bend spokes through the low-side flange, without these notches you'd need to
bend the spokes (within their elastic limit, of course),
so they're helpful just from a workability standpoint when building the wheel.
I've finished building the rear wheel too.
HDW2+ hub, 24H, all-black Campagnolo, laced in 4-cross JIS pattern.
I'll do the lacing later.
It doesn't look like a high-low flange hub, but it subtly is one.
The diameter difference is 3.5mm,
whereas the manufacturer's stated specs are 60/56.5mm,
but my actual measured dimensions came out to 59.5/56mm.
This isn't to say that measurements always differ from the manufacturer's specs.
It's not really a Shimano standard, but
with Shimano hubs, the difference doesn't even reach 0.1mm.
When I looked up spoke lengths using both the manufacturer's specs and my own measurements,
I found a difference of about 0.1mm on the freewheel side and about 0.3mm on the non-freewheel side.
Fortunately, this falls within the range that nipple threads can absorb.
I also measured the flange width directly rather than trusting the specs,
so those differences compound the issue.
The rear hub over-locknut dimension is listed as 135mm,
but it actually came up slightly short.
What I'm getting at is: don't trust the manufacturer's specs.
Especially the rim inner diameter marked on DT rim stickers—they're notoriously inaccurate.
If you trust those, you'll waste a whole set of spokes.
The slot for flat spokes is cut at an angle, so depending on the rim inner diameter and lacing pattern,
there's a possibility that spokes could be pulled along the slot direction.
But in practice this would only happen with true radial lacing,
and that's not possible with a 24H hub, so there's essentially no problem.
In the hole shown in the image, the spoke direction and slot are facing almost 180° apart,
but with the paired spoke that has the final crossing with this one,
↑it looks like this.