Another day of wheels (and so on).
A customer left me an Eurus to work on.
This is from an era when Japanese documentation had inconsistent transliteration of EURUS, unlike today.
The steel-spoked EURUS before the Shamal Ultra, I (arbitrarily) call it "Eurus" rather than "Yuras" to distinguish it.
It has quite a bit of runout, but there's a bent spoke,
so it's not a rim deformation issue.
It's repairable with spoke replacement and truing, but
(you can see it in the photo) the brake zone is severely worn,
so the customer wants the rim replaced.
Rebuilt it.
16H hub, black CX-RAY radial lacing.
The rim has a 3K carbon finish with red fibers woven in, and
the country of origin is unknown, but there's a sticker that says "Red 3K" on it.
I overhauled the hub.
The ball races had wear marks,
but no pitting.
Up to this point, I wouldn't have called this wheel a "fake Bora"
as mentioned in the title, but...
I'll rebuild the rear wheel too.
By the way, this was used for cyclocross.
You can tell by how it's dirty.
Rebuilt it.
Apparently you can order rims with G3 phase holes.
And if you go further, I heard a sketchy story that you can get
BORA or FFWD logos printed on them,
but I'm pretending I never heard that.
I feel like I've seen something like this before (→here).
In addition to "Red 3K," it says "G3 holes,"
but I have no idea what that means.
↑That's not checking the "20H" box,
it's written over as "21H."
before
after (left dust cap installed later)
before
after
I've been told a few times that people like this "before and after" format.
I should mention that I went with all-black CX-RAY spokes.
With a 2:1 lacing, if you carelessly do different gauges on left and right, things get messy.
The special washers under the spoke head
came in abundance—way more than I could use.
The freehub pawl spring was bent, so I replaced it.
In this case, I probably would've replaced it even if it wasn't bent.
I don't think it's my imagination—when I touched it,
the spring was clearly weakened.
Rear rim, driver's side view
Same, non-drive side
The WARNING sticker at the valve hole is only on one side.
This often gets overlooked when doing spoke replacements other than a complete respoke,
but Campagnolo radial front wheels have reverse hole drilling.
After rebuilding, the front rim follows the spoke direction instruction sticker
and becomes normal hole drilling.
With the rear rim, since both neighbors of the valve hole face toward the freehub,
there's a clear left-right distinction.
The WARNING label ends up on the freehub side,
so I built it with the WARNING on the driver's side (normal drilling).
I built it so the ball race adjustment nut is on the non-drive side of the hub.
The rebuilt rim has hole spacing designed for a Mega G3 hub.
It might be intended as a cheaper spare rim for a real Bora.
Since the hub is the same but the G3 spacing is different on the rim side,
the final cross angle changes too.
The freehub flange has very narrow slots cut to follow the spoke path,
so there might be interference between flange and spoke—
I warned the customer about this beforehand, but
luckily the angle changed in a direction that eased things.
Sorry, but I went with silver nipples.
I haven't talked much about this before, but
the anodize color affects the sliding friction between nipple and rim,
so strictly speaking, the maximum tension limit changes with nipple color.
If I could build wheels according to my own preferences about specs
without regard to customer wishes or tastes,
maybe I'd only build hand-laced wheels with silver spokes and silver nipples.
Building wheels with black spokes or colored nipples doesn't make them
clearly inferior in performance compared to silver spoke/silver nipple builds
(the feel and workability are different, though),
so I build spoke and nipple colors according to customer preference.
For the front wheel, again for reasons, I went with brass nipples.
A customer left me an Eurus to work on.
This is from an era when Japanese documentation had inconsistent transliteration of EURUS, unlike today.
The steel-spoked EURUS before the Shamal Ultra, I (arbitrarily) call it "Eurus" rather than "Yuras" to distinguish it.
It has quite a bit of runout, but there's a bent spoke,
so it's not a rim deformation issue.
It's repairable with spoke replacement and truing, but
(you can see it in the photo) the brake zone is severely worn,
so the customer wants the rim replaced.
Rebuilt it.
16H hub, black CX-RAY radial lacing.
The rim has a 3K carbon finish with red fibers woven in, and
the country of origin is unknown, but there's a sticker that says "Red 3K" on it.
I overhauled the hub.
The ball races had wear marks,
but no pitting.
Up to this point, I wouldn't have called this wheel a "fake Bora"
as mentioned in the title, but...
I'll rebuild the rear wheel too.
By the way, this was used for cyclocross.
You can tell by how it's dirty.
Rebuilt it.
Apparently you can order rims with G3 phase holes.
And if you go further, I heard a sketchy story that you can get
BORA or FFWD logos printed on them,
but I'm pretending I never heard that.
I feel like I've seen something like this before (→here).
In addition to "Red 3K," it says "G3 holes,"
but I have no idea what that means.
↑That's not checking the "20H" box,
it's written over as "21H."
before
after (left dust cap installed later)
before
after
I've been told a few times that people like this "before and after" format.
I should mention that I went with all-black CX-RAY spokes.
With a 2:1 lacing, if you carelessly do different gauges on left and right, things get messy.
The special washers under the spoke head
came in abundance—way more than I could use.
The freehub pawl spring was bent, so I replaced it.
In this case, I probably would've replaced it even if it wasn't bent.
I don't think it's my imagination—when I touched it,
the spring was clearly weakened.
Rear rim, driver's side view
Same, non-drive side
The WARNING sticker at the valve hole is only on one side.
This often gets overlooked when doing spoke replacements other than a complete respoke,
but Campagnolo radial front wheels have reverse hole drilling.
After rebuilding, the front rim follows the spoke direction instruction sticker
and becomes normal hole drilling.
With the rear rim, since both neighbors of the valve hole face toward the freehub,
there's a clear left-right distinction.
The WARNING label ends up on the freehub side,
so I built it with the WARNING on the driver's side (normal drilling).
I built it so the ball race adjustment nut is on the non-drive side of the hub.
The rebuilt rim has hole spacing designed for a Mega G3 hub.
Since the hub is the same but the G3 spacing is different on the rim side,
the final cross angle changes too.
The freehub flange has very narrow slots cut to follow the spoke path,
so there might be interference between flange and spoke—
I warned the customer about this beforehand, but
luckily the angle changed in a direction that eased things.
Sorry, but I went with silver nipples.
I haven't talked much about this before, but
the anodize color affects the sliding friction between nipple and rim,
so strictly speaking, the maximum tension limit changes with nipple color.
If I could build wheels according to my own preferences about specs
without regard to customer wishes or tastes,
maybe I'd only build hand-laced wheels with silver spokes and silver nipples.
Building wheels with black spokes or colored nipples doesn't make them
clearly inferior in performance compared to silver spoke/silver nipple builds
(the feel and workability are different, though),
so I build spoke and nipple colors according to customer preference.
For the front wheel, again for reasons, I went with brass nipples.