Wheels again today (and so on).
Built the front wheel for Nomu Lab Wheel #4.
Veloce 32H hub, all Competition spokes, Italian 4-cross lacing
with gold aluminum nipples.
This front wheel was previously built with a different rim,
but the customer wanted the hub and spokes reused and rebuilt,
so I have the hub and spokes on hand after the customer disassembled the wheel.
The previous rim was built from around 302mm based on rim height,
so reusing them is almost certainly possible (as long as the spokes aren't extremely bent).
This is because DT Competition spokes can definitely be cut by 20mm,
but what we have in stock is 305mm (the next size down is 285mm),
so cutting only a few mm from that
guarantees we can get the 288mm length needed for the rebuild.
If they'd cut out 302mm from around 330mm Competition spokes,
further trimming would be impossible, but there's no such length of Competition spokes.
↑These are uncut Sapim CX-RAY (top in image) and Race (bottom in image), but
with Race spokes, while the butted dimensions of 2.0–1.8–2.0mm are the same as Competition,
the cuttable length is at most 8mm if you push it,
or ideally 6mm or less.
With 250–305mm spokes, you can build most 700C wheels, but
with Competition you only need to stock about three different lengths at 20mm intervals,
whereas with Race that becomes about ten.
This is why I don't use Race spokes.
Though Race has less of the 2.0mm section compared to Competition despite identical butted dimensions,
making it lighter per spoke—which is factually true—
the difference isn't significant enough to show up in wheel characteristics.
I already have the disassembled spokes on hand,
and if possible I'd like to reuse the original drive-side spokes as drive-side
and the original non-drive-side spokes as non-drive-side.
In the image above, left is the original non-drive-side, right is the original drive-side, no mistake.
Sorting them this way,
↑Original non-drive-side
↑Original drive-side
They split evenly at 16 spokes each.
I cleaned off the rim cement stuck on
with acetone
and degreased the threads.
By the way, the image is after cutting.
Since cutting oil is used when rolling the threads.
First I threaded the original drive-side spokes through the hub flange with drive-side marks.
(What's visible in the image is the non-drive-side marks).
Whether following the flange marks is the right approach, I'm not sure.
This time the previous build was also Italian lacing, but
if the previous builder wasn't me and used JIS lacing,
then only one side would align with the previous marks.
Or if it was radial lacing, all holes would face a different direction than before.
Also, when rebuilding a rear wheel that was 4-cross laced with left-right 46-spoke lacing,
one side will have drive-side spokes going through what were originally non-drive-side holes.
This hub is a Veloce.
You might say that's obvious, but
if all parts other than the hub shell
(hub axle, end nut, dust cap, ball bearings, cup) are identical
and only have Campagnolo markings, it's a Mirage,
but if it also has Veloce stamping as well, then it's a Veloce.
There's no other way to tell them apart.
Built the front wheel for Nomu Lab Wheel #4.
Veloce 32H hub, all Competition spokes, Italian 4-cross lacing
with gold aluminum nipples.
This front wheel was previously built with a different rim,
but the customer wanted the hub and spokes reused and rebuilt,
so I have the hub and spokes on hand after the customer disassembled the wheel.
The previous rim was built from around 302mm based on rim height,
so reusing them is almost certainly possible (as long as the spokes aren't extremely bent).
This is because DT Competition spokes can definitely be cut by 20mm,
but what we have in stock is 305mm (the next size down is 285mm),
so cutting only a few mm from that
guarantees we can get the 288mm length needed for the rebuild.
If they'd cut out 302mm from around 330mm Competition spokes,
further trimming would be impossible, but there's no such length of Competition spokes.
↑These are uncut Sapim CX-RAY (top in image) and Race (bottom in image), but
with Race spokes, while the butted dimensions of 2.0–1.8–2.0mm are the same as Competition,
the cuttable length is at most 8mm if you push it,
or ideally 6mm or less.
With 250–305mm spokes, you can build most 700C wheels, but
with Competition you only need to stock about three different lengths at 20mm intervals,
whereas with Race that becomes about ten.
This is why I don't use Race spokes.
Though Race has less of the 2.0mm section compared to Competition despite identical butted dimensions,
making it lighter per spoke—which is factually true—
the difference isn't significant enough to show up in wheel characteristics.
I already have the disassembled spokes on hand,
and if possible I'd like to reuse the original drive-side spokes as drive-side
and the original non-drive-side spokes as non-drive-side.
In the image above, left is the original non-drive-side, right is the original drive-side, no mistake.
Sorting them this way,
↑Original non-drive-side
↑Original drive-side
They split evenly at 16 spokes each.
I cleaned off the rim cement stuck on
with acetone
and degreased the threads.
By the way, the image is after cutting.
Since cutting oil is used when rolling the threads.
First I threaded the original drive-side spokes through the hub flange with drive-side marks.
(What's visible in the image is the non-drive-side marks).
Whether following the flange marks is the right approach, I'm not sure.
This time the previous build was also Italian lacing, but
if the previous builder wasn't me and used JIS lacing,
then only one side would align with the previous marks.
Or if it was radial lacing, all holes would face a different direction than before.
Also, when rebuilding a rear wheel that was 4-cross laced with left-right 46-spoke lacing,
one side will have drive-side spokes going through what were originally non-drive-side holes.
This hub is a Veloce.
You might say that's obvious, but
if all parts other than the hub shell
(hub axle, end nut, dust cap, ball bearings, cup) are identical
and only have Campagnolo markings, it's a Mirage,
but if it also has Veloce stamping as well, then it's a Veloce.
There's no other way to tell them apart.