Another day of wheels (abbreviated hereafter).
The title says "also" built Nomu Lab Wheel #5
and that's not a mistake.
A customer brought in a rear wheel built with an AL22 rim.
It's the same as the XR200 rim, but since the Tni sticker was left on,
it's definitely an AL22 rim.
Apparently it was built at some shop in Osaka, but...
Tni Wing 32H hub and Sapim Race spokes
laced 16+8H in a 2:1 pattern.
The drive side is
all wonky, and
the non-drive side is also
wonky.
The rim had shifted to the right, but since it's not even been half a year since building,
it's not from normal use. It was bad from the start.
What terrible craftsmanship.
The customer didn't bring it in because it's loose and needs fixing—
spoke tension dropped and spokes broke after two months, so
they asked us to check it over as well. But even if I retensioned it,
there's only so much you can do, and since there are already problems
that seem to stem from the 2:1 lacing pattern,
we decided to rebuild it completely.
So I disassembled the rear wheel, but
thinking about it now, there was no need to disassemble it.
The thing is, this rear wheel has a 32H hub with 2:1 lacing, but
the rim is not 24H—it's 32H.
In other words, this rear wheel is
basically a 32H four-cross rear wheel
with half the non-drive side spokes removed
—a lazy hack of a wheel.
The unused rim holes where the non-drive side radial lacing doesn't pass through
were plugged with something like caulk.
I guess they did this because calculating spoke length for 32H hub/24H rim
with drive-side tangent lacing was too annoying.
Current Fulcrum wheels do use 2:1 lacing with
rest phase offset as well, but they design the rear wheel with
a stiffer rim that's heavier and taller than the XR200,
so the lateral run-out directly under the rest phase stays
acceptably small.
If you were to properly retension this wheel,
you'd get lateral run-out that would be pretty hard to look at.
If you really want 2:1 lacing, it's better to use
an XR300 24H rim.
The caulk came right off with a finger rub at all 8 holes.
So since I'm doing a 24H equal-spoke-count lacing,
I switched the hub to an Eviolite 24H hub, but
the rim was 32H, so I couldn't build a wheel.
So, choosing to forget about disassembling that crappy wheel for now,
I built the rear wheel for Nomu Lab Wheel #5.
Eviolite 24H hub, half-comp four-cross lacing with tie-and-wrap.
Next, the front wheel.
Wing 20H hub, Race outpoke radial lacing.
The front wheel has no center shift and is just slightly loose,
so I could have just retensioned it, but
the spoke length was a bit short and it had brass nipples,
so I decided to rebuild it.
By the way, both the short spoke length
and brass nipples were issues on the rear wheel too.
Built. I went with CX-RAY spokes and aluminum nipples.
Even though the hub and rim are the same,
before rebuilding it was 601g, after rebuilding it's 559g—
since most of the weight savings came from the outer portions,
I think it was worth doing.
Finally.
I rebuilt the rear wheel using the original 32H hub and 32H rim.
Half-comp four-eight lacing.
I'm not doing tie-and-wrap for now (can do it later).
First I want the customer to ride it in this state
and find out if they feel it's better than before rebuilding.
For this rear wheel, since it's my own screw-up to compensate for,
I'm building it free of charge, spokes included.
The title says "also" built Nomu Lab Wheel #5
and that's not a mistake.
A customer brought in a rear wheel built with an AL22 rim.
It's the same as the XR200 rim, but since the Tni sticker was left on,
it's definitely an AL22 rim.
Apparently it was built at some shop in Osaka, but...
Tni Wing 32H hub and Sapim Race spokes
laced 16+8H in a 2:1 pattern.
The drive side is
all wonky, and
the non-drive side is also
wonky.
The rim had shifted to the right, but since it's not even been half a year since building,
it's not from normal use. It was bad from the start.
What terrible craftsmanship.
The customer didn't bring it in because it's loose and needs fixing—
spoke tension dropped and spokes broke after two months, so
they asked us to check it over as well. But even if I retensioned it,
there's only so much you can do, and since there are already problems
that seem to stem from the 2:1 lacing pattern,
we decided to rebuild it completely.
So I disassembled the rear wheel, but
thinking about it now, there was no need to disassemble it.
The thing is, this rear wheel has a 32H hub with 2:1 lacing, but
the rim is not 24H—it's 32H.
In other words, this rear wheel is
basically a 32H four-cross rear wheel
with half the non-drive side spokes removed
—a lazy hack of a wheel.
The unused rim holes where the non-drive side radial lacing doesn't pass through
were plugged with something like caulk.
I guess they did this because calculating spoke length for 32H hub/24H rim
with drive-side tangent lacing was too annoying.
Current Fulcrum wheels do use 2:1 lacing with
rest phase offset as well, but they design the rear wheel with
a stiffer rim that's heavier and taller than the XR200,
so the lateral run-out directly under the rest phase stays
acceptably small.
If you were to properly retension this wheel,
you'd get lateral run-out that would be pretty hard to look at.
If you really want 2:1 lacing, it's better to use
an XR300 24H rim.
The caulk came right off with a finger rub at all 8 holes.
So since I'm doing a 24H equal-spoke-count lacing,
I switched the hub to an Eviolite 24H hub, but
the rim was 32H, so I couldn't build a wheel.
So, choosing to forget about disassembling that crappy wheel for now,
I built the rear wheel for Nomu Lab Wheel #5.
Eviolite 24H hub, half-comp four-cross lacing with tie-and-wrap.
Next, the front wheel.
Wing 20H hub, Race outpoke radial lacing.
The front wheel has no center shift and is just slightly loose,
so I could have just retensioned it, but
the spoke length was a bit short and it had brass nipples,
so I decided to rebuild it.
By the way, both the short spoke length
and brass nipples were issues on the rear wheel too.
Built. I went with CX-RAY spokes and aluminum nipples.
Even though the hub and rim are the same,
before rebuilding it was 601g, after rebuilding it's 559g—
since most of the weight savings came from the outer portions,
I think it was worth doing.
Finally.
I rebuilt the rear wheel using the original 32H hub and 32H rim.
Half-comp four-eight lacing.
I'm not doing tie-and-wrap for now (can do it later).
First I want the customer to ride it in this state
and find out if they feel it's better than before rebuilding.
For this rear wheel, since it's my own screw-up to compensate for,
I'm building it free of charge, spokes included.