Another day with wheels (and so on).
Continuing from the other day.
I'm swapping the rear wheel from Nomulab Wheel No. 4 onto No. 1.
A Gran Compe 32H hub, all Compe 6x6 JIS laced with no wire bracing.
One side has a stepped thread for a fixed cog, and
the other side has a smooth thread like a freewheel boss
and is for a freewheel sprocket.
When disassembling the wheel, on the freewheel side you can swap spokes
by threading them between the teeth of the sprocket,
but on the fixed cog side you can't do that, so you have to remove it.
In the end I removed the freewheel too.
If I had cut a spoke and gotten the hub into a bare state before
then discovering I needed to remove the sprocket,
that would've been a real mess.
Multi-speed freewheel cogs and single freewheels—
not cassette sprockets—plus the single fixed cog,
can't be removed from just the rear hub alone;
you need the whole rear wheel assembled to control the torque.
Not impossible, but extremely difficult
(you could use a vise on the hub body, but it'll get damaged).
It had been punctured by something like a nail.
There's no bulge in the brake zone and it hasn't punctured through to the inner rim,
so it doesn't affect the wheel's usability.
As usual, to keep them separate I first removed just the spokes from one side,
then cleaned them, cut them to length, and applied thread-locking compound.
↑This is the bundle of spokes from the other side after that, but
After cleaning they look like this.
It's built.
Like before the swap, it's 32H, 6x6 JIS laced,
but this time I've also added wire bracing.
Since it's a large flange, I could have laced it 8x8
without spoke head interference,
but that would require longer spokes than the originals,
so I couldn't reuse them and went with 6x6 instead.
It's not a compromise though—
if I were building it fresh, I'd probably do 6x6 anyway.
In fact, that's how it was originally laced.
Continuing from the other day.
I'm swapping the rear wheel from Nomulab Wheel No. 4 onto No. 1.
A Gran Compe 32H hub, all Compe 6x6 JIS laced with no wire bracing.
One side has a stepped thread for a fixed cog, and
the other side has a smooth thread like a freewheel boss
and is for a freewheel sprocket.
When disassembling the wheel, on the freewheel side you can swap spokes
by threading them between the teeth of the sprocket,
but on the fixed cog side you can't do that, so you have to remove it.
In the end I removed the freewheel too.
If I had cut a spoke and gotten the hub into a bare state before
then discovering I needed to remove the sprocket,
that would've been a real mess.
Multi-speed freewheel cogs and single freewheels—
not cassette sprockets—plus the single fixed cog,
can't be removed from just the rear hub alone;
you need the whole rear wheel assembled to control the torque.
Not impossible, but extremely difficult
(you could use a vise on the hub body, but it'll get damaged).
It had been punctured by something like a nail.
There's no bulge in the brake zone and it hasn't punctured through to the inner rim,
so it doesn't affect the wheel's usability.
As usual, to keep them separate I first removed just the spokes from one side,
then cleaned them, cut them to length, and applied thread-locking compound.
↑This is the bundle of spokes from the other side after that, but
After cleaning they look like this.
It's built.
Like before the swap, it's 32H, 6x6 JIS laced,
but this time I've also added wire bracing.
Since it's a large flange, I could have laced it 8x8
without spoke head interference,
but that would require longer spokes than the originals,
so I couldn't reuse them and went with 6x6 instead.
It's not a compromise though—
if I were building it fresh, I'd probably do 6x6 anyway.
In fact, that's how it was originally laced.