I received a Racing Zero from a customer.
They wanted hub inspection and truing work.
Starting with the front wheel.
The rim is tubular spec.
The wheel had barely any runout, but there was a significant center offset. With a hanging check, this level of offset shouldn't happen, so it appears there's a history of truing work done without a centering gauge.
I thought maybe the washer under the hollow end bolt was lost when the hub was disassembled previously, causing the offset, but it was still there. Also, the rear hub's corresponding part is fairly thick, but the front hub is extremely thin—the center offset this time far exceeds that thickness.
Since there's barely any runout and the rim is offset, I could just tension one side evenly—loosening the other side if that one gets really tight. But there were several nipples on the verge of seizing that wouldn't turn freely in the tightening direction. If forced, the spokes could twist or even break, so I loosened them first and cleaned out the debris packed in the spoke grooves.
↑Powder that crumbled out
↑This is a different nipple
I was able to achieve proper centering with mostly tightening.
Next, the rear wheel. This is a wheel with the rim sticker removed, but there was an additional sticker from the customer, and I took care during the work around it.
↑This is a photo after the work, but it was already perfectly centered from the start. The washer I mentioned earlier under the end bolt is the one shown in the image above.
The customer asked to disassemble the hubs if there were any issues, but I didn't feel that was necessary, so I didn't touch the hub bearings. I did do a cone adjustment though. Separately, the freewheel body pawl area appeared to be running low on grease, so I cleaned and regreased it.
The pawl return spring showed deformation, so I replaced it.
They wanted hub inspection and truing work.
Starting with the front wheel.
The rim is tubular spec.
The wheel had barely any runout, but there was a significant center offset. With a hanging check, this level of offset shouldn't happen, so it appears there's a history of truing work done without a centering gauge.
I thought maybe the washer under the hollow end bolt was lost when the hub was disassembled previously, causing the offset, but it was still there. Also, the rear hub's corresponding part is fairly thick, but the front hub is extremely thin—the center offset this time far exceeds that thickness.
Since there's barely any runout and the rim is offset, I could just tension one side evenly—loosening the other side if that one gets really tight. But there were several nipples on the verge of seizing that wouldn't turn freely in the tightening direction. If forced, the spokes could twist or even break, so I loosened them first and cleaned out the debris packed in the spoke grooves.
↑Powder that crumbled out
↑This is a different nipple
I was able to achieve proper centering with mostly tightening.
Next, the rear wheel. This is a wheel with the rim sticker removed, but there was an additional sticker from the customer, and I took care during the work around it.
↑This is a photo after the work, but it was already perfectly centered from the start. The washer I mentioned earlier under the end bolt is the one shown in the image above.
The customer asked to disassemble the hubs if there were any issues, but I didn't feel that was necessary, so I didn't touch the hub bearings. I did do a cone adjustment though. Separately, the freewheel body pawl area appeared to be running low on grease, so I cleaned and regreased it.
The pawl return spring showed deformation, so I replaced it.