I received a Shamal Ultra 2WAY-FIT from a customer.
They requested an inspection and spoke cosmetic work.
Starting with the rear wheel.
The centering was spot on.
There was only slight runout.
There are brake marks on the brake zone,
so it's not completely new,
but it's in nearly unused condition.
They also requested a hub overhaul,
but if I completely disassembled both front and rear hubs,
it would have been counterproductive,
so I just did a bearing adjustment.
The rear hub bearing was actually adjusted too tight.
Next, the front wheel.
I didn't get a great shot of this,
but there was less than paper-thin off-centering.
In cases like this, I do spoke truing on the side where tightening reduces the off-centering,
and the center naturally comes into alignment.
I did the cosmetic spoke work too.
The spokes I removed can be used as spares.
When changing spoke color, my basic approach is
the rim hole closest to the valve hole on the left side of the wheel.
Fulcrum does the same with their cosmetic spokes.
I did the same for the rear wheel this time.
On rims like Shamal Ultra and Racing Zero, the rim holes have reinforcement around them,
but on the 2WAY-FIT front rim,
one rim hole and the valve hole share a single reinforced section.
So the distance from the valve hole to the adjacent rim holes is not equal,
and there's only one specific rim hole directly adjacent to the valve hole.
So the spoke color should properly go there,
but on this front wheel, the spoke at that location came from the right flange.
This doesn't always happen that way—it's random.
Pretty careless, really.
It's the same with Racing Zero Competizione.
Looking at the hub shell sticker, it reads correctly in the proper direction from the right.
The rear wheel this time was oriented the same way.
If it were reversed, I could flip the hub shaft and end caps
to get the valve hole-adjacent spoke to come from the left flange,
but that would flip the hub shell sticker orientation.
So I made the red spoke the one at the rim hole closest to the valve hole
among the spokes coming from the left flange.
I could remove the hub shell sticker to eliminate directional attributes
and flip the hub shaft left to right, or
completely disassemble and flip the rim side to side and rebuild,
to get the spoke adjacent to the valve hole on the left side.
But I didn't do that this time.
They requested an inspection and spoke cosmetic work.
Starting with the rear wheel.
The centering was spot on.
There was only slight runout.
There are brake marks on the brake zone,
so it's not completely new,
but it's in nearly unused condition.
They also requested a hub overhaul,
but if I completely disassembled both front and rear hubs,
it would have been counterproductive,
so I just did a bearing adjustment.
The rear hub bearing was actually adjusted too tight.
Next, the front wheel.
I didn't get a great shot of this,
but there was less than paper-thin off-centering.
In cases like this, I do spoke truing on the side where tightening reduces the off-centering,
and the center naturally comes into alignment.
I did the cosmetic spoke work too.
The spokes I removed can be used as spares.
When changing spoke color, my basic approach is
the rim hole closest to the valve hole on the left side of the wheel.
Fulcrum does the same with their cosmetic spokes.
I did the same for the rear wheel this time.
On rims like Shamal Ultra and Racing Zero, the rim holes have reinforcement around them,
but on the 2WAY-FIT front rim,
one rim hole and the valve hole share a single reinforced section.
So the distance from the valve hole to the adjacent rim holes is not equal,
and there's only one specific rim hole directly adjacent to the valve hole.
So the spoke color should properly go there,
but on this front wheel, the spoke at that location came from the right flange.
This doesn't always happen that way—it's random.
Pretty careless, really.
It's the same with Racing Zero Competizione.
Looking at the hub shell sticker, it reads correctly in the proper direction from the right.
The rear wheel this time was oriented the same way.
If it were reversed, I could flip the hub shaft and end caps
to get the valve hole-adjacent spoke to come from the left flange,
but that would flip the hub shell sticker orientation.
So I made the red spoke the one at the rim hole closest to the valve hole
among the spokes coming from the left flange.
I could remove the hub shell sticker to eliminate directional attributes
and flip the hub shaft left to right, or
completely disassemble and flip the rim side to side and rebuild,
to get the spoke adjacent to the valve hole on the left side.
But I didn't do that this time.