I only use tubeless-ready tires on the rear wheel of my personal bike,
and about three weeks ago I noticed there was a hole where sealant was seeping out.
Even with that, the air loss was comparable to a thin butyl tube—it took about 4 to 5 days for the pressure to drop from 7 bar to 6 bar.
Sometimes I'm lazy enough to think "I'll replace the tire tomorrow when I next ride" even when a tubular tire's tread is obviously worn and really needs changing, and then I end up using it anyway until it eventually punctures.
But actually, rim cement–mounted tubulars are the tire setup with the shortest repair time if you get a puncture while out on a ride.
That's assuming you're thoroughly experienced with the handling of any tire type, of course.
Tubed clinchers come next, followed by tape-mounted tubulars, and tubeless tires with sealant take the longest to repair.
To minimize the possibility of ending up having to deal with a punctured tubeless tire with sealant while out on the road, I changed the tire today.
That said, I did know about the hole for about three weeks and kept using it anyway.
Also, dried sealant that had splattered was scattered in little spots on the back of my seat tube and seatpost.
With tubular tires mounted on rim cement, sometimes I want to keep aside ones that still have life left in them as spare tires,
so in those cases I do change them quite a bit earlier than necessary.
I let some air out and pressed around the hole with my finger.
It doesn't normally leak this much.
I don't document every tubeless tire change in an article,
so this isn't a perfectly accurate record for reference,
but the Imaje (sealant brand) I put in a few months ago was still in liquid form.
It's not watery—it's thick and viscous from the start.
The IRC Formula Pro Tubeless—only the lighter S-Light model is tubeless-ready,
and it's the only one in the lineup that offers 23C.
A little while back, all models of the current tubeless tires except the Road Lite became hookless rim compatible,
but those oddly angular beads are hard to fit on hooked rims,
and for people not using hookless rims it's just plain inconvenient.
I wish they'd sell both the hooked rim and hookless versions,
but I can easily imagine a future where someone who didn't read the packaging carefully enough installs a non-hookless-compatible tire, nearly dies,
and then blames the manufacturer—so from a manufacturing simplification standpoint, selling both versions is probably difficult.
The two tires in the image above are my last remaining 23C non-hookless-rim-compatible stock.
If I really hunted through distribution inventory, I might just barely be able to find more.
and about three weeks ago I noticed there was a hole where sealant was seeping out.
Even with that, the air loss was comparable to a thin butyl tube—it took about 4 to 5 days for the pressure to drop from 7 bar to 6 bar.
Sometimes I'm lazy enough to think "I'll replace the tire tomorrow when I next ride" even when a tubular tire's tread is obviously worn and really needs changing, and then I end up using it anyway until it eventually punctures.
But actually, rim cement–mounted tubulars are the tire setup with the shortest repair time if you get a puncture while out on a ride.
That's assuming you're thoroughly experienced with the handling of any tire type, of course.
Tubed clinchers come next, followed by tape-mounted tubulars, and tubeless tires with sealant take the longest to repair.
To minimize the possibility of ending up having to deal with a punctured tubeless tire with sealant while out on the road, I changed the tire today.
That said, I did know about the hole for about three weeks and kept using it anyway.
Also, dried sealant that had splattered was scattered in little spots on the back of my seat tube and seatpost.
With tubular tires mounted on rim cement, sometimes I want to keep aside ones that still have life left in them as spare tires,
so in those cases I do change them quite a bit earlier than necessary.
I let some air out and pressed around the hole with my finger.
It doesn't normally leak this much.
I don't document every tubeless tire change in an article,
so this isn't a perfectly accurate record for reference,
but the Imaje (sealant brand) I put in a few months ago was still in liquid form.
It's not watery—it's thick and viscous from the start.
The IRC Formula Pro Tubeless—only the lighter S-Light model is tubeless-ready,
and it's the only one in the lineup that offers 23C.
A little while back, all models of the current tubeless tires except the Road Lite became hookless rim compatible,
but those oddly angular beads are hard to fit on hooked rims,
and for people not using hookless rims it's just plain inconvenient.
I wish they'd sell both the hooked rim and hookless versions,
but I can easily imagine a future where someone who didn't read the packaging carefully enough installs a non-hookless-compatible tire, nearly dies,
and then blames the manufacturer—so from a manufacturing simplification standpoint, selling both versions is probably difficult.
The two tires in the image above are my last remaining 23C non-hookless-rim-compatible stock.
If I really hunted through distribution inventory, I might just barely be able to find more.