Another wheel day (and so on).
Built a front wheel with a Barcelona 92 rim.
Like the rear wheel, I'm converting the Record hub to CULT (Campagnolo Ultra-Light Technology).
Removed the ball bearing set.
The rim made a noise when I shook it, so I guided the foreign object toward the valve hole and removed it with tweezers.
Since this is a dual-eyeleted rim with no holes other than the valve hole, and the eyelets running through the rim interior are like having a pillar right in the middle of a hallway, guiding out foreign objects is a hassle.
I received a comment asking why, when building front and rear wheels with two identical rims of the same spoke count, you use the lighter one for the rear wheel.
The reason is that you want to make the outer circumference of the drive wheel as light as possible.
This isn't just my personal preference—it's a time-honored practice, and since there's no compelling reason to go against it, with classic rims of 28 spokes or more, when I have a matching pair of the same spoke count, I usually weigh the rims (whether or not I mention it here).
With modern rim brake wheels, it became standard practice to have fewer spokes on the front wheel than the rear, but with disc brake wheels, 24 spokes front and rear has become standard again, so when I'm working with customer-supplied rims for both front and rear, I'll sometimes weigh them.
As for the Nomu Lab wheel #8 rims, when building a front or rear wheel, I just reach into the box and pull out whichever rim my hand touches first without bothering to weigh them.
Built... not quite.
Without pressing in the CULT one-piece, I threaded the spokes and nipples, aligned them so the spoke threads hide under the end face of the 12mm nipples, then tightened all nipples an additional three turns from there.
From this point I'll need to use a truing stand, but I should finish building within about two more nipple turns from here, and once I dial in the radial runout it's pretty much done.
I won't explain the reason for taking this particular approach, but opportunities to work this way don't come around very often, so it was a good chance to learn something.
Installed the CULT components on the hub.
Built.
Black Record hub, 32H, fully Italian crossed with rainbow-colored (VAS pattern) nipples.
Built a front wheel with a Barcelona 92 rim.
Like the rear wheel, I'm converting the Record hub to CULT (Campagnolo Ultra-Light Technology).
Removed the ball bearing set.
The rim made a noise when I shook it, so I guided the foreign object toward the valve hole and removed it with tweezers.
Since this is a dual-eyeleted rim with no holes other than the valve hole, and the eyelets running through the rim interior are like having a pillar right in the middle of a hallway, guiding out foreign objects is a hassle.
I received a comment asking why, when building front and rear wheels with two identical rims of the same spoke count, you use the lighter one for the rear wheel.
The reason is that you want to make the outer circumference of the drive wheel as light as possible.
This isn't just my personal preference—it's a time-honored practice, and since there's no compelling reason to go against it, with classic rims of 28 spokes or more, when I have a matching pair of the same spoke count, I usually weigh the rims (whether or not I mention it here).
With modern rim brake wheels, it became standard practice to have fewer spokes on the front wheel than the rear, but with disc brake wheels, 24 spokes front and rear has become standard again, so when I'm working with customer-supplied rims for both front and rear, I'll sometimes weigh them.
As for the Nomu Lab wheel #8 rims, when building a front or rear wheel, I just reach into the box and pull out whichever rim my hand touches first without bothering to weigh them.
Built... not quite.
Without pressing in the CULT one-piece, I threaded the spokes and nipples, aligned them so the spoke threads hide under the end face of the 12mm nipples, then tightened all nipples an additional three turns from there.
From this point I'll need to use a truing stand, but I should finish building within about two more nipple turns from here, and once I dial in the radial runout it's pretty much done.
I won't explain the reason for taking this particular approach, but opportunities to work this way don't come around very often, so it was a good chance to learn something.
Installed the CULT components on the hub.
Built.
Black Record hub, 32H, fully Italian crossed with rainbow-colored (VAS pattern) nipples.