The other day we rebuilt the front wheel of a CLX50 at our shop
and before that, the rear wheel that had already been rebuilt by the partner
was showing runout, so it was sent in asking us to fix it.
There's clearly visible runout when you look at it,
and there's a suspicion that the spokes might be bent.
... it wasn't a suspicion—the chain dropped and
deformed the spokes in the outer flange holes on the freewheel side,
which is the main cause of the lateral runout.
Of the eight spokes in the outer flange hole positions
going in the opposite porcupine direction,
five of them are bent or scraped.
Rovel's tangent lacing is
XI crossing with a sharp angle on the final crossing,
so there are many wraps in the tie-in. We couldn't
undo the soldered tie-ins and replace just one spoke
in the final crossing.
There was a Nomu Lab sticker on the hub barrel,
but it was peeling and had sand stuck under it,
so I removed it and wiped down the hub barrel.
I rarely put stickers on myself,
so I was thinking of putting on a replacement sticker
but I forgot and shipped it out as is.
I included 3 stickers, so
if you want to put one on, use those.
I might have written about this during the first rebuild,
but of the sprockets, only the top cog
can appear to fit at an angle even if it's not
at the correct position on the freewheel body splines,
and you can tighten the lockring on it.
The image above shows traces of that happening.
I removed 10 spokes—5 pairs of consecutive final crossings
on the freewheel side.
I replaced the spokes and finished truing and centering.
In the image above, the bottom 3 final crossings that are tied
are the part where I didn't replace spokes.
↑The replaced section
I did the tie-ins later... already did it.
I didn't take photos though.
Hub bearing replacement was also requested,
and I determined replacement was needed for
the left side bearing of the hub shell and
both bearings on the freewheel body—three locations total.
I didn't replace the right side bearing of the hub shell.
And I applied dedicated grease to the
star ratchet parts.
and before that, the rear wheel that had already been rebuilt by the partner
was showing runout, so it was sent in asking us to fix it.
There's clearly visible runout when you look at it,
and there's a suspicion that the spokes might be bent.
... it wasn't a suspicion—the chain dropped and
deformed the spokes in the outer flange holes on the freewheel side,
which is the main cause of the lateral runout.
Of the eight spokes in the outer flange hole positions
going in the opposite porcupine direction,
five of them are bent or scraped.
Rovel's tangent lacing is
XI crossing with a sharp angle on the final crossing,
so there are many wraps in the tie-in. We couldn't
undo the soldered tie-ins and replace just one spoke
in the final crossing.
There was a Nomu Lab sticker on the hub barrel,
but it was peeling and had sand stuck under it,
so I removed it and wiped down the hub barrel.
I rarely put stickers on myself,
so I was thinking of putting on a replacement sticker
but I forgot and shipped it out as is.
I included 3 stickers, so
if you want to put one on, use those.
I might have written about this during the first rebuild,
but of the sprockets, only the top cog
can appear to fit at an angle even if it's not
at the correct position on the freewheel body splines,
and you can tighten the lockring on it.
The image above shows traces of that happening.
I removed 10 spokes—5 pairs of consecutive final crossings
on the freewheel side.
I replaced the spokes and finished truing and centering.
In the image above, the bottom 3 final crossings that are tied
are the part where I didn't replace spokes.
↑The replaced section
I did the tie-ins later... already did it.
I didn't take photos though.
Hub bearing replacement was also requested,
and I determined replacement was needed for
the left side bearing of the hub shell and
both bearings on the freewheel body—three locations total.
I didn't replace the right side bearing of the hub shell.
And I applied dedicated grease to the
star ratchet parts.