Wheels again today (and so on).
Continuing from yesterday.
Rebuilding the CLX rear wheel.
When I spin the hub axle by hand,
the rotation feels rough, though not as bad as the front wheel.
I disassembled the wheel and pulled out the freebody,
then inserted the hub axle into it
until it engaged both bearings
(in the photo I inserted it backwards,
but it doesn't really matter).
When I spun the freebody by hand,
the rotation felt smooth, so
the freebody bearings weren't damaged.
↑In this state, when I spin the hub axle by hand,
it feels gritty, so one or both of the
left and right hub body bearings are damaged.
The right side bearing probably has a lower chance of damage
because it's larger due to being integrated with
the star ratchet structure, so
I drove out the left bearing—the same 6802 bearing
as the front hub's left and right sides.
From this point, I inserted the hub axle from the right side of the hub body
and checked the bearing rotation feel,
and it felt completely smooth, so no replacement was necessary.
I'd anticipated this outcome, which is why
I disassembled the wheel first. But if I were to replace
the right side bearing of the hub body,
I'd need to remove the ratchet base,
and loosening the base's threaded collar
is impossible with just the hub alone
(same difficulty as removing a fixed gear or freehub sprocket
with just the hub by itself),
so if I did need to replace the right hub body bearing,
I'd have to proceed the wheel beyond the rough assembly stage.
The section of the hub axle directly below the hub body in the photo above
was pretty dirty,
and the hub body interior was dirty too, so
I wiped it clean.
I replaced the left side hub body bearing.
The left side locknut endcap bearing race had
visible signs of sand grinding through it.
Since I had the hub apart, I also cleaned up
the star ratchet area and applied specialized grease.
Reassembled it.
I fitted the anti-freewheel side with a black CX sprint
and laced the freewheel side.
Continuing from yesterday.
Rebuilding the CLX rear wheel.
When I spin the hub axle by hand,
the rotation feels rough, though not as bad as the front wheel.
I disassembled the wheel and pulled out the freebody,
then inserted the hub axle into it
until it engaged both bearings
(in the photo I inserted it backwards,
but it doesn't really matter).
When I spun the freebody by hand,
the rotation felt smooth, so
the freebody bearings weren't damaged.
↑In this state, when I spin the hub axle by hand,
it feels gritty, so one or both of the
left and right hub body bearings are damaged.
The right side bearing probably has a lower chance of damage
because it's larger due to being integrated with
the star ratchet structure, so
I drove out the left bearing—the same 6802 bearing
as the front hub's left and right sides.
From this point, I inserted the hub axle from the right side of the hub body
and checked the bearing rotation feel,
and it felt completely smooth, so no replacement was necessary.
I'd anticipated this outcome, which is why
I disassembled the wheel first. But if I were to replace
the right side bearing of the hub body,
I'd need to remove the ratchet base,
and loosening the base's threaded collar
is impossible with just the hub alone
(same difficulty as removing a fixed gear or freehub sprocket
with just the hub by itself),
so if I did need to replace the right hub body bearing,
I'd have to proceed the wheel beyond the rough assembly stage.
The section of the hub axle directly below the hub body in the photo above
was pretty dirty,
and the hub body interior was dirty too, so
I wiped it clean.
I replaced the left side hub body bearing.
The left side locknut endcap bearing race had
visible signs of sand grinding through it.
Since I had the hub apart, I also cleaned up
the star ratchet area and applied specialized grease.
Reassembled it.
I fitted the anti-freewheel side with a black CX sprint
and laced the freewheel side.