Another day working on wheels (and so on).
A customer brought in a rear wheel built with a Stans Crest rim.
It was built with a ZTTO 32H BOOST hub,
which we assembled here at the shop back in the day.
It buckled during a race, and the rim has deformed flanges on both sides,
with the tubeless air retention also severely compromised.
So we decided to replace the rim.
This is a separate job—a rear wheel we built here at the shop
with a Crest rim and XT hub.
It's a 142mm non-BOOST hub that hasn't been used in ages,
but the rim is still good,
so we're rebuilding with this rim instead.
As I've mentioned before,
when BOOST conversion only requires swapping out the left and right dropout spacers,
the wheel's structural dimensions like hub flange width don't change at all, so it doesn't really matter.
But with Shimano hubs, they actually redesigned the hub body for BOOST,
and while the front went from 100mm to 110mm (plus 10mm),
for the rear going from 142mm to 148mm,
I'm not sure where they pulled it from,
but it's plus 7mm, not plus 6mm.
That 7mm difference in rear hub flange width is significant.
On the flip side, there's no flexibility—you can't convert a non-BOOST hub to BOOST
just by swapping hub axle parts.
In other words, this hub is essentially dead spec-wise.
I wonder who struck the pressure point
These days even XC frames are BOOST,
so a 142mm hub almost never gets a race wheel built on it,
and with non-BOOST street-use MTBs and crossbikes,
hand-built wheels are almost never assembled,
and with 32H, building a disc road wheel is pretty much out of the question.
Rim relocation in progress.
I won't deny that we're doing it the complicated way just for the optics.
It looks like a hermit crab stealing a shell from another hermit crab
whose insides are dead.
I noticed partway through—I did a temporary build first,
but 3 of the 8 nu-spokes on the freehub side were damaged from chain drops.
Since the XT hub's freehub-side spokes were longer than this one's,
I pulled 3 spokes (naturally the nu-spokes) from that side
and swapped them in.
Built.
ZTTO BOOST hub, 32H,
semi-comp two-cross JIS laced.
It came laced from the beginning.
This is something I've written about many times, but
there's always someone who says "you can't true a wheel that's laced,"
but if a wheel can't be trued,
there's no way you could do the higher-level job of rim replacement on it.
Only people who've never actually laced a wheel say this,
and I'm baffled how they can declare it can't be trued without ever having done it.
A customer brought in a rear wheel built with a Stans Crest rim.
It was built with a ZTTO 32H BOOST hub,
which we assembled here at the shop back in the day.
It buckled during a race, and the rim has deformed flanges on both sides,
with the tubeless air retention also severely compromised.
So we decided to replace the rim.
This is a separate job—a rear wheel we built here at the shop
with a Crest rim and XT hub.
It's a 142mm non-BOOST hub that hasn't been used in ages,
but the rim is still good,
so we're rebuilding with this rim instead.
As I've mentioned before,
when BOOST conversion only requires swapping out the left and right dropout spacers,
the wheel's structural dimensions like hub flange width don't change at all, so it doesn't really matter.
But with Shimano hubs, they actually redesigned the hub body for BOOST,
and while the front went from 100mm to 110mm (plus 10mm),
for the rear going from 142mm to 148mm,
I'm not sure where they pulled it from,
but it's plus 7mm, not plus 6mm.
That 7mm difference in rear hub flange width is significant.
On the flip side, there's no flexibility—you can't convert a non-BOOST hub to BOOST
just by swapping hub axle parts.
In other words, this hub is essentially dead spec-wise.
These days even XC frames are BOOST,
so a 142mm hub almost never gets a race wheel built on it,
and with non-BOOST street-use MTBs and crossbikes,
hand-built wheels are almost never assembled,
and with 32H, building a disc road wheel is pretty much out of the question.
Rim relocation in progress.
I won't deny that we're doing it the complicated way just for the optics.
It looks like a hermit crab stealing a shell from another hermit crab
whose insides are dead.
I noticed partway through—I did a temporary build first,
but 3 of the 8 nu-spokes on the freehub side were damaged from chain drops.
Since the XT hub's freehub-side spokes were longer than this one's,
I pulled 3 spokes (naturally the nu-spokes) from that side
and swapped them in.
Built.
ZTTO BOOST hub, 32H,
semi-comp two-cross JIS laced.
It came laced from the beginning.
This is something I've written about many times, but
there's always someone who says "you can't true a wheel that's laced,"
but if a wheel can't be trued,
there's no way you could do the higher-level job of rim replacement on it.
Only people who've never actually laced a wheel say this,
and I'm baffled how they can declare it can't be trued without ever having done it.