Another day, another wheel job (and so on).
A customer brought in a rear wheel built with a Stans Crest rim.
It was built on a ZTTO 32H BOOST hub,
one that we built here at the shop some time back.
It buckled during a race, and both edges of the rim have deformed sections. The tubeless air retention has also dropped significantly, so we decided to replace the rim.
This is a separate case—a rear wheel with a Crest rim and XT hub that we built here at the shop.
It's a 142mm non-BOOST hub, and it hasn't been used in ages, but the rim is still good, so we decided to rebuild using this rim.
I've written about this before, but when BOOST conversion only required swapping out the locknuts on both sides, there's really no point—the structural dimensions of the wheel as a whole didn't change at all. However, Shimano actually modified the hub body for BOOST, so while the front went from 100mm to 110mm (a +10mm flange width increase), the rear went from 142mm to 148mm, and somehow they squeezed out +7mm instead of +6mm. That 7mm difference in rear hub flange width is huge. The trade-off is that it's inflexible—you can't convert a non-BOOST hub to BOOST by swapping out hub shaft parts alone.
In other words, this hub is pretty much dead spec-wise.Who was the one who struck the fatal pressure point, I wonder
Given that even XC frames are BOOST these days, you're not going to see race wheels built on 142mm hubs, and with non-BOOST spec commuter MTBs and cyclocross bikes where hand-built wheels are almost never done, 32H wheels for disc road bikes are basically out of the question.
Rim relocation in progress...
I won't deny that I'm deliberately going about this the complicated way for the sake of the visual appeal. It kind of looks like a hermit crab pillaging a shell from another hermit crab whose occupant has died.
I noticed partway through, but after doing a temporary build, I found that 3 of the 8 inpokes on the freewheel side were damaged from chain suck. Since the XT hub's freewheel-side spokes were longer, I pulled 3 inpokes from that hub and swapped them in to replace the damaged ones.
Built.
ZTTO BOOST hub, 32H,
semi-comp 4-cross JIS lacing.
It has a spoke tie already.
I've said this many times before, but there are people who claim "wheels with spoke ties can't be trued," which is nonsense. If a wheel can't be trued, there's no way you could do the higher-order operation of rim replacement either. The only people who say that are ones who've never actually done a spoke tie, and I wonder how they can so confidently declare that truing is impossible when they've never even tried it.
A customer brought in a rear wheel built with a Stans Crest rim.
It was built on a ZTTO 32H BOOST hub,
one that we built here at the shop some time back.
It buckled during a race, and both edges of the rim have deformed sections. The tubeless air retention has also dropped significantly, so we decided to replace the rim.
This is a separate case—a rear wheel with a Crest rim and XT hub that we built here at the shop.
It's a 142mm non-BOOST hub, and it hasn't been used in ages, but the rim is still good, so we decided to rebuild using this rim.
I've written about this before, but when BOOST conversion only required swapping out the locknuts on both sides, there's really no point—the structural dimensions of the wheel as a whole didn't change at all. However, Shimano actually modified the hub body for BOOST, so while the front went from 100mm to 110mm (a +10mm flange width increase), the rear went from 142mm to 148mm, and somehow they squeezed out +7mm instead of +6mm. That 7mm difference in rear hub flange width is huge. The trade-off is that it's inflexible—you can't convert a non-BOOST hub to BOOST by swapping out hub shaft parts alone.
In other words, this hub is pretty much dead spec-wise.
Given that even XC frames are BOOST these days, you're not going to see race wheels built on 142mm hubs, and with non-BOOST spec commuter MTBs and cyclocross bikes where hand-built wheels are almost never done, 32H wheels for disc road bikes are basically out of the question.
Rim relocation in progress...
I won't deny that I'm deliberately going about this the complicated way for the sake of the visual appeal. It kind of looks like a hermit crab pillaging a shell from another hermit crab whose occupant has died.
I noticed partway through, but after doing a temporary build, I found that 3 of the 8 inpokes on the freewheel side were damaged from chain suck. Since the XT hub's freewheel-side spokes were longer, I pulled 3 inpokes from that hub and swapped them in to replace the damaged ones.
Built.
ZTTO BOOST hub, 32H,
semi-comp 4-cross JIS lacing.
It has a spoke tie already.
I've said this many times before, but there are people who claim "wheels with spoke ties can't be trued," which is nonsense. If a wheel can't be trued, there's no way you could do the higher-order operation of rim replacement either. The only people who say that are ones who've never actually done a spoke tie, and I wonder how they can so confidently declare that truing is impossible when they've never even tried it.