Wheels again today (and so on).
Built a front wheel with a Super Champion Record rim.
This is a follow-up to the situation from late last year
where I couldn't build a wheel because I had
two 36H rims but a 32H front hub and 40H rear hub.
A Campagnolo large flange hub.
It was unused with no build marks on it.
36H, all Stainless Steel #15 plain spokes
88 Italian lacing pattern
Nipples are DT brass nipples with 3.2mm hex key.
I chose stainless steel spokes because depending on the manufacturer and model,
the specific spoke length I needed wasn't available anywhere else.
I was prepared that if I ordered them and got spokes with different magnetic properties
than genuine stainless steel, I'd try other spoke options instead.
I chose #15 plain because the rim's breaking point is lower than the spoke's limit.
If you tension rims like this as if they were modern rims,
cranking them tight with a CX-RAY tension meter,
cracks will immediately form before and after the rim holes.
After getting the radial and lateral runout nearly perfect
(at this stage the wheel center can be slightly off),
I tightened each nipple by 1/4 turn at a time,
treading as carefully as walking on thin ice,
checking the tension with the meter after each adjustment—
it took quite a while.
Built a front wheel with a Super Champion Record rim.
This is a follow-up to the situation from late last year
where I couldn't build a wheel because I had
two 36H rims but a 32H front hub and 40H rear hub.
A Campagnolo large flange hub.
It was unused with no build marks on it.
36H, all Stainless Steel #15 plain spokes
88 Italian lacing pattern
Nipples are DT brass nipples with 3.2mm hex key.
I chose stainless steel spokes because depending on the manufacturer and model,
the specific spoke length I needed wasn't available anywhere else.
I was prepared that if I ordered them and got spokes with different magnetic properties
than genuine stainless steel, I'd try other spoke options instead.
I chose #15 plain because the rim's breaking point is lower than the spoke's limit.
If you tension rims like this as if they were modern rims,
cranking them tight with a CX-RAY tension meter,
cracks will immediately form before and after the rim holes.
After getting the radial and lateral runout nearly perfect
(at this stage the wheel center can be slightly off),
I tightened each nipple by 1/4 turn at a time,
treading as carefully as walking on thin ice,
checking the tension with the meter after each adjustment—
it took quite a while.