I received the front and rear wheels of a Cosmic SL40 from a customer.
These are rim brake wheels.
The customer requested an inspection and tubeless tire installation.
The front wheel looks brand new at first glance,
but it's been used just a bit,
and the current owner is not the original owner.
There's a significant lateral offset.
Classic Mavic quality.
I want to fix the slight wobble and center it,
if possible, using only one-sided tension tightening
without major adjustments.
After establishing a provisional center point,
I used one-sided tension tightening to eliminate the lateral wobble.
There's still a slight offset remaining.
It looked like I could center it with further tightening,
so
I centered it with additional tightening.
The OEM tubeless valve that came with the wheel
has no threads from partway up the stem (→here).
With this design, if the pump chuck isn't of good quality,
the gauge needle drops quickly
or air leaks from the chuck during pumping.
Even our shop's compressor chuck constantly leaks air.
I managed to seat the tire bead with brute force,
but it wasn't ideal.
The tire on order is also Mavic,
and it has reverse mounting specified for the front wheel.
Since I wasn't told to do otherwise, I'll follow the specification.
There's a marking indicating it's made in France.
There's a mysterious logo,
but I have no idea what it means.
I installed the tire.
Based on the rim tape condition, the wheel has been used,
but not as a tubeless setup previously.
Since there was no sealant among the wheel's accessories,
I used an Imaje sealant,
but a few hours after this work, the front wheel had lost air.
When I re-inflated and checked,
there was air leakage at a specific point near the tire bead.
I positioned that spot at the bottom and spun the wheel,
and the air leak sound stopped,
so it might stabilize from here on.
I'll monitor it for more than a night to see.
Next, the rear wheel.
There are no bite marks from the sprocket on the freehub splines,
so it almost looks unused,
but the included brake pads have been removed from the box
and brake dust fills the grooves,
so it's been ridden a bit.
This isn't really a fault of the previous owner,
but the Instant Drive 360 ratchet was quite loud
and made a scratchy feeling,
so I applied extra grease for face ratchets.
Of the left and right dropouts on both wheels,
only the right side of the rear wheel had aluminum from the frame
stuck in the end serrations.
The rim is significantly offset toward the anti-freewheel side.
Using freewheel-side tension tightening with spoke truing,
when truing was complete, some lateral offset remained.
Unlike the front wheel, the freewheel side was quite tight,
so I slightly loosened the anti-freewheel side by just a bit.
I centered the wheel.
The rim's lateral movement relative to nipple rotation is larger
on the anti-freewheel side,
so I only loosened it very slightly.
Compared to the initial state,
it's overall under more tension now.
I installed the tubeless valve and tire.
These are rim brake wheels.
The customer requested an inspection and tubeless tire installation.
The front wheel looks brand new at first glance,
but it's been used just a bit,
and the current owner is not the original owner.
There's a significant lateral offset.
Classic Mavic quality.
I want to fix the slight wobble and center it,
if possible, using only one-sided tension tightening
without major adjustments.
After establishing a provisional center point,
I used one-sided tension tightening to eliminate the lateral wobble.
There's still a slight offset remaining.
It looked like I could center it with further tightening,
so
I centered it with additional tightening.
The OEM tubeless valve that came with the wheel
has no threads from partway up the stem (→here).
With this design, if the pump chuck isn't of good quality,
the gauge needle drops quickly
or air leaks from the chuck during pumping.
Even our shop's compressor chuck constantly leaks air.
I managed to seat the tire bead with brute force,
but it wasn't ideal.
The tire on order is also Mavic,
and it has reverse mounting specified for the front wheel.
Since I wasn't told to do otherwise, I'll follow the specification.
There's a marking indicating it's made in France.
There's a mysterious logo,
but I have no idea what it means.
I installed the tire.
Based on the rim tape condition, the wheel has been used,
but not as a tubeless setup previously.
Since there was no sealant among the wheel's accessories,
I used an Imaje sealant,
but a few hours after this work, the front wheel had lost air.
When I re-inflated and checked,
there was air leakage at a specific point near the tire bead.
I positioned that spot at the bottom and spun the wheel,
and the air leak sound stopped,
so it might stabilize from here on.
I'll monitor it for more than a night to see.
Next, the rear wheel.
There are no bite marks from the sprocket on the freehub splines,
so it almost looks unused,
but the included brake pads have been removed from the box
and brake dust fills the grooves,
so it's been ridden a bit.
This isn't really a fault of the previous owner,
but the Instant Drive 360 ratchet was quite loud
and made a scratchy feeling,
so I applied extra grease for face ratchets.
Of the left and right dropouts on both wheels,
only the right side of the rear wheel had aluminum from the frame
stuck in the end serrations.
The rim is significantly offset toward the anti-freewheel side.
Using freewheel-side tension tightening with spoke truing,
when truing was complete, some lateral offset remained.
Unlike the front wheel, the freewheel side was quite tight,
so I slightly loosened the anti-freewheel side by just a bit.
I centered the wheel.
The rim's lateral movement relative to nipple rotation is larger
on the anti-freewheel side,
so I only loosened it very slightly.
Compared to the initial state,
it's overall under more tension now.
I installed the tubeless valve and tire.