Another wheel day (and so on).


Let me supplement what I mentioned when building the front wheel.
Even if you try to align the phase of the rim sticker like in the image above

↑the stars-and-stripes sticker at the valve hole phase will sometimes align and sometimes not align as shown in the image above,
so be careful about that.

Since the rear hub is a fixed-gear double-sided hub,
I'm planning to do JIS lacing,
but I need to be careful to align the apparent right side of the hub with the apparent right side of the rim.

About this rim—so I don't appear to have cherry-picked only the worst spots—
I'll inspect the rim holes from the outside continuously from the valve hole,






The burrs around the rim holes haven't been cleaned up.
Deburring is essential.
That said, except for rims like Stans Crest or Iamaneagle where the inner wall thickness of the hole is obviously thin,
for pretty much any grommet-less rim you're going to do this on almost all of them.

Built the rear wheel.

Filwood double-sided fixed-gear hub, 32H,
full competition-grade JIS lacing with no tie-and-solder.


Let me supplement what I mentioned when building the front wheel.
Even if you try to align the phase of the rim sticker like in the image above

↑the stars-and-stripes sticker at the valve hole phase will sometimes align and sometimes not align as shown in the image above,
so be careful about that.

Since the rear hub is a fixed-gear double-sided hub,
I'm planning to do JIS lacing,
but I need to be careful to align the apparent right side of the hub with the apparent right side of the rim.

About this rim—so I don't appear to have cherry-picked only the worst spots—
I'll inspect the rim holes from the outside continuously from the valve hole,






The burrs around the rim holes haven't been cleaned up.
Deburring is essential.
That said, except for rims like Stans Crest or Iamaneagle where the inner wall thickness of the hole is obviously thin,
for pretty much any grommet-less rim you're going to do this on almost all of them.

Built the rear wheel.

Filwood double-sided fixed-gear hub, 32H,
full competition-grade JIS lacing with no tie-and-solder.