Today it's wheels again (and so on).
I rebuilt the rear wheel, the counterpart to the front wheel I rebuilt on the CL50 the other day.
Unlike the front wheel, there was no obvious sealant leaking around the valve area or nipple corrosion from sealant moisture, but sealant had still seeped into the rim, just not as badly as the front wheel.
↑The timeline jumps around, but it looks like this
After removing the sealant film from the outer rim holes and shaking the rim to the point where sealant doesn't leak out, here's the actual measured weight.
I figured out why sealant was leaking into the rim. When I received the wheel, the rim tape wasn't the DT-branded Roval model — it was Stans tubeless tape instead. That's not the issue itself; the problem is the size of the hole it has cut in it.
In the state shown in the image above, the valve nut was tightened so hard I couldn't loosen it by hand (which means I couldn't do emergency tube repairs if there was a complete flat during a ride), but in this state the O-ring isn't making a proper seal.
↑This is the tubeless valve I removed from the front wheel, but
The rim tape position and hole diameter are being used at position B in the diagram above instead of where they should be at position A. If the tubeless valve seal functioned completely at position B, the O-ring wouldn't be necessary.
When I pulled the tubeless valve out of the hole that was about the size of the valve's thread diameter, liquid sealant was still stuck to the threads.
The rim tape is double-wrapped, triple around the valve hole, and deformed by tightening the valve nut, but it's not creating a complete seal.
I rebuilt it.
Black CX-RAY spokes on the drive side, black CX Sprint spokes on the non-drive side, with black aluminum nipples. I'll true it later.
The reason I prefer Stans rim tape is very unusual, I think: "You can make holes of any size with a soldering iron, and the tape fuses together even when layered double or more."
I drilled a hole just barely large enough for the valve threads to pass through. That's the size B hole in the diagram from before. Most tubeless valves work with this size, but
This time the tubeless valve has a special shape, so I made it size A.
When I tighten the valve nut, the O-ring gets compressed just right and creates a seal.
I rebuilt the rear wheel, the counterpart to the front wheel I rebuilt on the CL50 the other day.
Unlike the front wheel, there was no obvious sealant leaking around the valve area or nipple corrosion from sealant moisture, but sealant had still seeped into the rim, just not as badly as the front wheel.
↑The timeline jumps around, but it looks like this
After removing the sealant film from the outer rim holes and shaking the rim to the point where sealant doesn't leak out, here's the actual measured weight.
I figured out why sealant was leaking into the rim. When I received the wheel, the rim tape wasn't the DT-branded Roval model — it was Stans tubeless tape instead. That's not the issue itself; the problem is the size of the hole it has cut in it.
In the state shown in the image above, the valve nut was tightened so hard I couldn't loosen it by hand (which means I couldn't do emergency tube repairs if there was a complete flat during a ride), but in this state the O-ring isn't making a proper seal.
↑This is the tubeless valve I removed from the front wheel, but
The rim tape position and hole diameter are being used at position B in the diagram above instead of where they should be at position A. If the tubeless valve seal functioned completely at position B, the O-ring wouldn't be necessary.
When I pulled the tubeless valve out of the hole that was about the size of the valve's thread diameter, liquid sealant was still stuck to the threads.
The rim tape is double-wrapped, triple around the valve hole, and deformed by tightening the valve nut, but it's not creating a complete seal.
I rebuilt it.
Black CX-RAY spokes on the drive side, black CX Sprint spokes on the non-drive side, with black aluminum nipples. I'll true it later.
The reason I prefer Stans rim tape is very unusual, I think: "You can make holes of any size with a soldering iron, and the tape fuses together even when layered double or more."
I drilled a hole just barely large enough for the valve threads to pass through. That's the size B hole in the diagram from before. Most tubeless valves work with this size, but
This time the tubeless valve has a special shape, so I made it size A.
When I tighten the valve nut, the O-ring gets compressed just right and creates a seal.