A customer dropped off the front and rear wheels from an original Bora Ultra WTO33
for inspection.
With the original Bora WTO,
there are rim brake versions available,
so after the rim height value, you add "Bora WTO33DB"
with DB meaning disc brake,
but the Ultra version only comes in disc brake spec,
so the distinguishing DB isn't necessary.
The original Bora WTO in both rim brake and
disc brake versions have
all rim heights (33, 45, 60mm) with an
internal width of 19mm, and the
original Bora Ultra WTO 45 and 60 also
have a 19mm internal width,
but the Ultra 33 alone has a 21mm internal width.
The current second generation
has all rim heights (35, 45, 60mm) with
a 23mm internal width.
For the inspection, starting with the front wheel.
The hub rotation on the CULT shows some play,
and it was lighter than what comes with new wheels.
There was no looseness, and touching it seemed like
it might actually cause problems,
so I only confirmed that the
bearing preload adjustment lock bolt
had no play.
The rim was offset to the left side.
I've written about this many times before,
but on the Campagnolo bearing preload adjustment nut side
(on disc brake hubs,
front is the right side, rear is the left side), the end has
the silver and black sections not flush,
with the silver slightly protruding outward.
↑Close-up of the offset amount
I removed the slight lateral runout and centered it.
In the image above, the gap visible between
the front right end and the centering gauge probe
is the silver and black step I mentioned earlier.
Rims like the Bora WTO and Shamal Carbon
often have needle-like adhesive residue
remaining inside the rim,
and you can hear it faintly when you shake the rim.
Long pieces exceed the valve hole diameter,
so they don't come out just from shaking the rim,
so I guide them toward the valve hole and then
pick them out with tweezers.
In practice, these break easily,
so I usually just shake the rim to get out
the pieces that are shorter than the valve hole diameter.
I guide the needle tip to the range visible from
the valve hole and carefully grasp it, and
as in the image above,
I can recover larger pieces exceeding the valve hole diameter.
Next, the rear wheel.
What's this?
The bearing preload was tightened too much,
and the hub axle rotation was way too stiff.
I removed the freebody to put it in "front hub state".
The freebody bearings
had no abnormalities, but
the right end nut securing the freebody
was loose enough to come undone by hand.
At the point of the image above,
when tightening and loosening the right end nut,
I removed the split ring part that
obscures the flat surface where the 14mm hub wrench goes
to grip the hub axle,
but this doesn't affect the end dimensions,
so it's not a functional part.
It should be fine to use with it removed.
It does seem to serve as a stopper function
to prevent excessive loosening if the
bearing preload adjustment nut fastening becomes loose
and loosens over time.
The rim was offset to the left side.
↑About this much
I've already reinstalled the part
that obscures the 14mm wrench flat.
This side's center offset would be
easy to correct just by loosening the eight anti-freewheel spokes,
but since I don't want to adjust in the loosening direction,
I use the Bora Ultra WTO-specific
(and Hyperion Ultra also has this)
reverse Torx hole built-in nipple method of
tightening the 16 freewheel-side nipples,
which is tedious.
I centered the wheel.
The rear wheel had almost no lateral runout,
but for a Bora, it was quite offset.
for inspection.
With the original Bora WTO,
there are rim brake versions available,
so after the rim height value, you add "Bora WTO33DB"
with DB meaning disc brake,
but the Ultra version only comes in disc brake spec,
so the distinguishing DB isn't necessary.
The original Bora WTO in both rim brake and
disc brake versions have
all rim heights (33, 45, 60mm) with an
internal width of 19mm, and the
original Bora Ultra WTO 45 and 60 also
have a 19mm internal width,
but the Ultra 33 alone has a 21mm internal width.
The current second generation
has all rim heights (35, 45, 60mm) with
a 23mm internal width.
For the inspection, starting with the front wheel.
The hub rotation on the CULT shows some play,
and it was lighter than what comes with new wheels.
There was no looseness, and touching it seemed like
it might actually cause problems,
so I only confirmed that the
bearing preload adjustment lock bolt
had no play.
The rim was offset to the left side.
I've written about this many times before,
but on the Campagnolo bearing preload adjustment nut side
(on disc brake hubs,
front is the right side, rear is the left side), the end has
the silver and black sections not flush,
with the silver slightly protruding outward.
↑Close-up of the offset amount
I removed the slight lateral runout and centered it.
In the image above, the gap visible between
the front right end and the centering gauge probe
is the silver and black step I mentioned earlier.
Rims like the Bora WTO and Shamal Carbon
often have needle-like adhesive residue
remaining inside the rim,
and you can hear it faintly when you shake the rim.
Long pieces exceed the valve hole diameter,
so they don't come out just from shaking the rim,
so I guide them toward the valve hole and then
pick them out with tweezers.
In practice, these break easily,
so I usually just shake the rim to get out
the pieces that are shorter than the valve hole diameter.
I guide the needle tip to the range visible from
the valve hole and carefully grasp it, and
as in the image above,
I can recover larger pieces exceeding the valve hole diameter.
Next, the rear wheel.
What's this?
The bearing preload was tightened too much,
and the hub axle rotation was way too stiff.
I removed the freebody to put it in "front hub state".
The freebody bearings
had no abnormalities, but
the right end nut securing the freebody
was loose enough to come undone by hand.
At the point of the image above,
when tightening and loosening the right end nut,
I removed the split ring part that
obscures the flat surface where the 14mm hub wrench goes
to grip the hub axle,
but this doesn't affect the end dimensions,
so it's not a functional part.
It should be fine to use with it removed.
It does seem to serve as a stopper function
to prevent excessive loosening if the
bearing preload adjustment nut fastening becomes loose
and loosens over time.
The rim was offset to the left side.
↑About this much
I've already reinstalled the part
that obscures the 14mm wrench flat.
This side's center offset would be
easy to correct just by loosening the eight anti-freewheel spokes,
but since I don't want to adjust in the loosening direction,
I use the Bora Ultra WTO-specific
(and Hyperion Ultra also has this)
reverse Torx hole built-in nipple method of
tightening the 16 freewheel-side nipples,
which is tedious.
I centered the wheel.
The rear wheel had almost no lateral runout,
but for a Bora, it was quite offset.