Rebuilt the rear wheel of the SES4.5

Another day, another wheel (and so on).
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Continuing from the other day.
I'm going to rebuild the rear wheel on the SES4.5.
The rim by itself has the model name A56.

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It's built as a DT240 hub, 24-spoke, all-black 4/4 lacing, but
like the front wheel, it was built with the rim treated as reversed, and

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It was built with reverse JIS lacing, of all things.
The only way to say this lacing pattern has logical consistency is
if it's a fixed-gear urban fixed gear with left-side drive
and the rear hub has threads on both sides.

The reason it's limited to fixed gears is that
with a freewheel, if you mount it on the left side it would freewheel in the wrong direction,
so structurally you'd need a mirror-image freewheel.
Such freewheels do exist,
but they're quite exceptional.
The reason it's limited to hubs with threads on both sides is that
if it only has threads on one side, Italian lacing would be fine.
The reason it's limited to urban fixed gears is that
while there are ultra-expensive competition fixed gear bikes
with the drivetrain (chain-side parts)
mounted on the left side (left drive),
such bikes use disc wheels or
carbon/composite wheels for the rear,
so they never use spoked wheels.

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The rim was way off to the left.
If the compromise tolerance for radial and lateral runout had been extremely tight
and the wheel center was actually centered,
I might feel some respect for the builder's intentions with the reverse JIS lacing,
but for something like this abomination of a hub and rim,
I can't bring myself to feel that way.
According to the customer, this front and rear wheel wasn't owned by the original owner,
so the history is unknown. There's a possibility it was amateur dabbling,
so I won't be too harsh in my commentary.

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After releasing the spoke tension,
from the valve hole, going counter-clockwise to the neighboring
left and right final cross spoke bundle, I kept those and
cut the rest.
I've stuck a T-shaped Allen key in the valve hole
as a reference mark.

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Further, from the final cross bundle, going clockwise to the neighboring
two spokes in the anti-porcupine direction
were cut but left on the flange.
The relationship between these two spokes is

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With the hub flanges vertical,
from the flange at the top as I'm looking at it,
a spoke runs straight down, but
at the bottom flange, the spoke is offset to the left
as it passes through.

This is what's called a "left drop."
With equal-diameter lacing, if you do a left drop,
you can Italian lace it so the valve hole phase
doesn't fall within the bundle of four final cross spokes on both sides.
If the rim is treated as correct orientation.

With 4/4 lacing, with n-spoke lacing on left and right,
n/2 becomes odd on one side and even on the other,
so right drop/left drop reverses.
So with correct orientation 4/4 Italian lacing, it
must be right drop.

If it were reverse orientation 4/4 Italian lacing,
right drop/left drop would reverse twice,
so it would be left drop.

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↑This is the original reverse JIS lacing, but
the non-drive side is the same as Italian lacing,
so against this non-drive side, I'll try
re-threading just the drive-side spokes to match Italian lacing.

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Done.
Italian lacing.

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↑So then the valve hole phase comes out like this.
"Even though I set it as left drop,
the valve hole ended up in a weird spot,
so I'll just build the wheel so the spoke bundle doesn't straddle the valve hole!"
Not realizing the reverse rim orientation was the cause,
the result of forcing through this wheel-building pretend play
is what I believe became the reverse JIS lacing.

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It's built.

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DT240 hub, 24-spoke, black half-comp 4/4 lacing.
I'll do the tying later.

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Oh, just to note, I built it with the rim treated as correct orientation.

About the rims for this front and rear wheel,
when the customer obtained them
they were in a wheel-like state,
so the rim by itself weight h











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♪Here it comes, the grand finale!
Sorry for the wait! Take a look at these images!

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It's the A48 front rim!

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It's the A56 rear rim!
↑No, stop that!

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