Another day of wheels (and so on).
The last Saturday of the month is normally closed, but I opened the shop anyway
because I had promised to deliver wheels and complete bikes.
I'm continuing to work through email and comment replies.
I figured building my own wheel on a day off wouldn't be a sin, so
I built a front wheel with a Rohloff hub and XR300 rim.
It's a 20-spoke six-cross lacing.
The true tangential lacing patterns that exist are
12-spoke four-cross, 20-spoke six-cross, 28-spoke eight-cross, and 36-spoke ten-cross,
but 12-spoke hand-built wheels are virtually never made, so we can disregard that.
For rear wheels, if you use four-cross exclusively on the freewheel side
and do true tangential with alternating cross numbers on the non-freewheel side,
you get 20-spoke four-six lacing, 24-spoke four-eight lacing, and 36-spoke four-ten lacing.
For 36-spoke, if the freewheel side is four-cross it gets pretty close to radial lacing, so
six-cross might be acceptable too.
The point is, 20-spoke can theoretically do six-cross,
and if it's a rear wheel you can do four-six lacing.
The reason I don't do it despite this is that beyond the correction of left-right spoke balance,
there are disadvantages that can't be overlooked (as I see it currently).
Though I have built it a few times on wheels that aren't for sale.
I don't see any particular merit to doing six-cross on both sides for a 20-spoke front wheel, but
I wanted to try double-cross lacing, so I gave it a go.
Double-cross can be confused with two-cross (another name for four-cross),
but in this blog it refers to "weaving two crossing points—
the final crossing and the one before it—when lacing six-cross or higher."
Small-flange hubs have holes spaced closely together, and
round spokes create large lateral deformation at crossing points,
so the spokes bend quite sharply.
The spokes used are DT Compe, but
in the first lacing section the butting hasn't started yet.
This is brutal.
I brought the rear wheel from my three-roller trainer bike from home. It's 24-spoke.
I found out when I disassembled it that the rim weighed 662 grams.
No wonder it was heavy.
The hub has threads on both sides, but for some reason the original lacing was Italian,
so I'd been using it in freewheel configuration with the valve hole spokelets pointing porcupine-style on both sides,
though I'd thought this side had unshoulder freewheel threads.
But there is at least some consideration for freewheel use.
There's spacing between the end of the threads and the right flange, but
↑on track hubs without that feature, when you install a freewheel
the back of the freewheel rubs against the hub body or interferes with spokes.
A Shimano 10-speed 1mm low spacer fits here perfectly,
so you can solve it by inserting a spacer, but then
a different problem arises—the number of threads the freewheel engages with decreases.
I also made the rear wheel rim an XR300.
The spokes are completely slack in this temporary lacing state, but
once tensioned they snap tight.
The lacing method is Italian six-cross twisted, but
I also incorporated double-cross on top of it.
This lacing method is absolutely not recommended.
↑Building in the double-cross pattern progressively during temporary lacing,
this is the state before the last two spokes are woven in.
When replacing a single spoke on an already-built wheel, you sometimes need to
pass the final crossing
over it like this, but
↑when the final crossing is twisted in double-cross or laced, there's a major drawback.
If you need to replace the spoke I've colored red in the image above,
↑you'd have to pass it through like this, but it's
impossible to do within the elastic deformation range of the spoke.
So you'd need to undo the adjacent crossing, but
undoing that requires undoing the crossing next to it,
and that extends across one complete flange side.
In other words, if a single spoke breaks,
you end up disassembling the entire half of the wheel.
Tracing a single spoke's path shows something ridiculous.
Normally it's almost straight.
With a large-flange hub, the sharp bending from double-cross isn't as bad as
the front wheel. This is also DT Compe.
Thanks to that spacing from the end of the threads
(you could also say the flange is offset)
the freewheel interference problem should be avoided.
When I actually installed it, there was plenty of clearance.
Since it's the same sprocket as before reassembly, there shouldn't be any issues.
There's a reason for the alternating dirty and clean tooth tips on the sprocket.
Chains use outer links and inner links as a pair (unless using "half links"),
so they always have an even number of links.
This bike's gear ratio is also 44×18T—even numbers front and rear—so
on each tooth of the sprocket, the relationship of "outer link engages / inner link engages"
never reverses.
The dirty tooth tips are where the inner link was engaging, so
when reinstalling, it might be better to have it engage on the opposite link side than before.
The rear derailleur pulley was once, long ago, a solid disc rather than geared,
but when it became geared the standard was 10T.
Shimano switched to 11T starting with the 7700 derailleur, which is odd so that
outer and inner links alternate as the pulley rotates.
Campagnolo stayed with 10T for a long time, but switched to 11T relatively recently.
When someone unfamiliar with multi-speed operation rides an MTB-look bike,
they sometimes ride it permanently in outer ring and top sprocket,
and I've once seen a 10T pulley wear into a five-pointed star shape
because that particular gear ratio happened to prevent chain link reversal.
This wouldn't happen with an 11T pulley.
The last Saturday of the month is normally closed, but I opened the shop anyway
because I had promised to deliver wheels and complete bikes.
I'm continuing to work through email and comment replies.
I figured building my own wheel on a day off wouldn't be a sin, so
I built a front wheel with a Rohloff hub and XR300 rim.
It's a 20-spoke six-cross lacing.
The true tangential lacing patterns that exist are
12-spoke four-cross, 20-spoke six-cross, 28-spoke eight-cross, and 36-spoke ten-cross,
but 12-spoke hand-built wheels are virtually never made, so we can disregard that.
For rear wheels, if you use four-cross exclusively on the freewheel side
and do true tangential with alternating cross numbers on the non-freewheel side,
you get 20-spoke four-six lacing, 24-spoke four-eight lacing, and 36-spoke four-ten lacing.
For 36-spoke, if the freewheel side is four-cross it gets pretty close to radial lacing, so
six-cross might be acceptable too.
The point is, 20-spoke can theoretically do six-cross,
and if it's a rear wheel you can do four-six lacing.
The reason I don't do it despite this is that beyond the correction of left-right spoke balance,
there are disadvantages that can't be overlooked (as I see it currently).
Though I have built it a few times on wheels that aren't for sale.
I don't see any particular merit to doing six-cross on both sides for a 20-spoke front wheel, but
I wanted to try double-cross lacing, so I gave it a go.
Double-cross can be confused with two-cross (another name for four-cross),
but in this blog it refers to "weaving two crossing points—
the final crossing and the one before it—when lacing six-cross or higher."
Small-flange hubs have holes spaced closely together, and
round spokes create large lateral deformation at crossing points,
so the spokes bend quite sharply.
The spokes used are DT Compe, but
in the first lacing section the butting hasn't started yet.
This is brutal.
I brought the rear wheel from my three-roller trainer bike from home. It's 24-spoke.
I found out when I disassembled it that the rim weighed 662 grams.
No wonder it was heavy.
The hub has threads on both sides, but for some reason the original lacing was Italian,
so I'd been using it in freewheel configuration with the valve hole spokelets pointing porcupine-style on both sides,
though I'd thought this side had unshoulder freewheel threads.
But there is at least some consideration for freewheel use.
There's spacing between the end of the threads and the right flange, but
↑on track hubs without that feature, when you install a freewheel
the back of the freewheel rubs against the hub body or interferes with spokes.
A Shimano 10-speed 1mm low spacer fits here perfectly,
so you can solve it by inserting a spacer, but then
a different problem arises—the number of threads the freewheel engages with decreases.
I also made the rear wheel rim an XR300.
The spokes are completely slack in this temporary lacing state, but
once tensioned they snap tight.
The lacing method is Italian six-cross twisted, but
I also incorporated double-cross on top of it.
This lacing method is absolutely not recommended.
↑Building in the double-cross pattern progressively during temporary lacing,
this is the state before the last two spokes are woven in.
When replacing a single spoke on an already-built wheel, you sometimes need to
pass the final crossing
over it like this, but
↑when the final crossing is twisted in double-cross or laced, there's a major drawback.
If you need to replace the spoke I've colored red in the image above,
↑you'd have to pass it through like this, but it's
impossible to do within the elastic deformation range of the spoke.
So you'd need to undo the adjacent crossing, but
undoing that requires undoing the crossing next to it,
and that extends across one complete flange side.
In other words, if a single spoke breaks,
you end up disassembling the entire half of the wheel.
Tracing a single spoke's path shows something ridiculous.
Normally it's almost straight.
With a large-flange hub, the sharp bending from double-cross isn't as bad as
the front wheel. This is also DT Compe.
Thanks to that spacing from the end of the threads
(you could also say the flange is offset)
the freewheel interference problem should be avoided.
When I actually installed it, there was plenty of clearance.
Since it's the same sprocket as before reassembly, there shouldn't be any issues.
There's a reason for the alternating dirty and clean tooth tips on the sprocket.
Chains use outer links and inner links as a pair (unless using "half links"),
so they always have an even number of links.
This bike's gear ratio is also 44×18T—even numbers front and rear—so
on each tooth of the sprocket, the relationship of "outer link engages / inner link engages"
never reverses.
The dirty tooth tips are where the inner link was engaging, so
when reinstalling, it might be better to have it engage on the opposite link side than before.
The rear derailleur pulley was once, long ago, a solid disc rather than geared,
but when it became geared the standard was 10T.
Shimano switched to 11T starting with the 7700 derailleur, which is odd so that
outer and inner links alternate as the pulley rotates.
Campagnolo stayed with 10T for a long time, but switched to 11T relatively recently.
When someone unfamiliar with multi-speed operation rides an MTB-look bike,
they sometimes ride it permanently in outer ring and top sprocket,
and I've once seen a 10T pulley wear into a five-pointed star shape
because that particular gear ratio happened to prevent chain link reversal.
This wouldn't happen with an 11T pulley.