I built up a Cannondale SuperSix EVO!
Thank you for giving me permission to feature it here.
It's an ultra-lightweight frame with a catalog weight of 695g.
I'll write about the actual weight later, but it's a bike that shows you can achieve
this kind of weight without using any dangerous tricks or gimmicks.
The frame before adding bottom bracket components. It's incredibly thin.
The shift outer cable looks long, but
that's because there's an outer cable guide on the side of the head tube.
This length is just right for when the handlebar turns fully to the side.
In reality, you probably won't turn the handlebar that much even when standing and braking at a traffic light,
but you have to avoid a situation where the outer cable gets taut and damages the frame
if you have an unexpected crash and the handlebar turns all the way.
Well, honestly, the frame looks like it could get totaled in even a minor crash.
Since there's no shift cable adjuster on the frame, I've put one in the middle of the shift outer cable.
With complete bikes, you often see these on both sides for front and rear shifting,
but isn't the rear one unnecessary since it's already on the derailleur?
You're not going to turn it while riding to make adjustments anyway.
(If you're doing that regularly, you need to fix the root problem.)
When both sides have them, the adjusters interfere with each other, causing wear and rattling sounds, which is annoying.
So I've only put one on the front.
The FSA K Force seatpost seemed oddly light, and I realized
the seatpost clamp had been changed to carbon.
Speaking of which, the image above is a TNi Evolution Hub.
Actually, this got a minor update around last year,
and the change was from a thin steel axle to a thicker aluminum axle for weight savings.
So strictly speaking, it's the Evolution Hub II.
Evolution Hub I and II don't have compatible freebodies.
The reason I recommend this hub over TNi's ceramic-bearing Wing Hub
is that the hub dimensions are high-low flange.
↑So this is the rear Wing Hub, and you can see the lightening holes in the left flange.
The left and right flange diameters are exactly the same.
Actually, this is a Wing Hub I.
It recently became the Wing Hub II. The shape of the left flange has changed.
I hand-laced this Fast Forward F6R as well.
With this Wing Hub... well... I think I could lace a wheel.
The front hub feels nearly the same in unloaded rotation (spinning it by pinching the axle)
between the Evo and Wing, but the rear shows the Wing is slightly lighter.
The hub weight itself is also slightly lighter on the Wing.
And finally, the bike weight that I've been building up to:
With pedals and two bottle cages included: 6.33kg
If I were to enter a registered race, all I'd need to do is swap in a 1200g frame (laughs).
Thank you for giving me permission to feature it here.
It's an ultra-lightweight frame with a catalog weight of 695g.
I'll write about the actual weight later, but it's a bike that shows you can achieve
this kind of weight without using any dangerous tricks or gimmicks.
The frame before adding bottom bracket components. It's incredibly thin.
The shift outer cable looks long, but
that's because there's an outer cable guide on the side of the head tube.
This length is just right for when the handlebar turns fully to the side.
In reality, you probably won't turn the handlebar that much even when standing and braking at a traffic light,
but you have to avoid a situation where the outer cable gets taut and damages the frame
if you have an unexpected crash and the handlebar turns all the way.
Well, honestly, the frame looks like it could get totaled in even a minor crash.
Since there's no shift cable adjuster on the frame, I've put one in the middle of the shift outer cable.
With complete bikes, you often see these on both sides for front and rear shifting,
but isn't the rear one unnecessary since it's already on the derailleur?
You're not going to turn it while riding to make adjustments anyway.
(If you're doing that regularly, you need to fix the root problem.)
When both sides have them, the adjusters interfere with each other, causing wear and rattling sounds, which is annoying.
So I've only put one on the front.
The FSA K Force seatpost seemed oddly light, and I realized
the seatpost clamp had been changed to carbon.
Speaking of which, the image above is a TNi Evolution Hub.
Actually, this got a minor update around last year,
and the change was from a thin steel axle to a thicker aluminum axle for weight savings.
So strictly speaking, it's the Evolution Hub II.
Evolution Hub I and II don't have compatible freebodies.
The reason I recommend this hub over TNi's ceramic-bearing Wing Hub
is that the hub dimensions are high-low flange.
↑So this is the rear Wing Hub, and you can see the lightening holes in the left flange.
The left and right flange diameters are exactly the same.
Actually, this is a Wing Hub I.
It recently became the Wing Hub II. The shape of the left flange has changed.
I hand-laced this Fast Forward F6R as well.
With this Wing Hub... well... I think I could lace a wheel.
The front hub feels nearly the same in unloaded rotation (spinning it by pinching the axle)
between the Evo and Wing, but the rear shows the Wing is slightly lighter.
The hub weight itself is also slightly lighter on the Wing.
And finally, the bike weight that I've been building up to:
With pedals and two bottle cages included: 6.33kg
If I were to enter a registered race, all I'd need to do is swap in a 1200g frame (laughs).