Another wheel day (and so on).
I received the rear wheel of an ALX440, which is a wheel from A-CLASS (A-Class), the complete wheel brand of ALEX RIMS.
Looking clockwise from directly above, the 5th and 13th spokes are missing, but
that wasn't the problem.
The rim had been punctured in one spot.
So we decided to replace the rim.
Got it built.
Since I didn't peel off the sticker, it's a Tni AL300 rim.
Some A-Class wheels come in pair-spoke configuration, and in those cases the hub and rim nipple hole phasing doesn't match with a standard evenly-spaced nipple hole rim, so you can't build them. Glad this one had a regular hub.
24-hole, full competition crossed pattern, with reinforcing wire. The cheapest way to replace a rear wheel is to just buy a Shimano complete wheel's rear section, but if you want to keep the hub and still have a fairly light rim, this approach might work too.
The hub's bearing rotation was rough and gritty, so I cleaned and re-greased it. I said "keep the hub" earlier, but since we overhauled it to extend its life, maybe I should say we "brought it back to life" instead. Based on how the front hub looks like a Novatech 291 or Tni Evo hub, and the structure of the rear freebody, the hub appears to be made by Novatech.
I received the rear wheel of an ALX440, which is a wheel from A-CLASS (A-Class), the complete wheel brand of ALEX RIMS.
Looking clockwise from directly above, the 5th and 13th spokes are missing, but
that wasn't the problem.
The rim had been punctured in one spot.
So we decided to replace the rim.
Got it built.
Since I didn't peel off the sticker, it's a Tni AL300 rim.
Some A-Class wheels come in pair-spoke configuration, and in those cases the hub and rim nipple hole phasing doesn't match with a standard evenly-spaced nipple hole rim, so you can't build them. Glad this one had a regular hub.
24-hole, full competition crossed pattern, with reinforcing wire. The cheapest way to replace a rear wheel is to just buy a Shimano complete wheel's rear section, but if you want to keep the hub and still have a fairly light rim, this approach might work too.
The hub's bearing rotation was rough and gritty, so I cleaned and re-greased it. I said "keep the hub" earlier, but since we overhauled it to extend its life, maybe I should say we "brought it back to life" instead. Based on how the front hub looks like a Novatech 291 or Tni Evo hub, and the structure of the rear freebody, the hub appears to be made by Novatech.