I received a Planet X rear wheel from a customer.
The rim is the same as the one used on a Nöm Lab Wheel 2.5 (Japanese wheel brand),
and the spokes are Pillar flat spokes with slit holes for the Key spoke system.
It's built 24-hole 4-cross lacing, but apparently it's experiencing spoke rub.
Since the tension was loose to begin with, I could probably prevent the spoke rub just by tightening things up more,
but the customer said partial rebuilding would be fine too, so let's give it a try.Hehehehe.
The hub is an early-model Novatec 482 with a 12mm steel axle.
In Tni (Japanese wheel brand) terms, it would be equivalent to an Evo Hub I (the 15mm aluminum axle version is the Evo Hub II).
The rim is an Equinox, manufactured in 2013.
I unraveled and disassembled only the non-drive side.
After temporarily threading six black CX-RAY spokes on the non-drive side,
I tightened the drive-side nipples by 1¼ turns (450°) as a starting point
(beyond that it's fine-tuning, but those adjustments are mostly in the tightening direction too).
Before disassembly, the wheel's lateral centering was barely detectable on the centering gauge—
it was "pretty much centered,"
so if I center the wheel after tightening the drive side,
the drive side will definitely be under more tension than before the rebuild.
The condition before rebuilding was loose enough that I could easily make the black spokes' crossings vibrate,
so not every wheel with this exact spec develops spoke rub.
Rebuilding complete.
I've switched the non-drive side to black CX-RAY and built it 4-cross with a wire connector.
The customer seemed impressed enough to say "What on earth is this!"
Mission accomplished.
The rim is the same as the one used on a Nöm Lab Wheel 2.5 (Japanese wheel brand),
and the spokes are Pillar flat spokes with slit holes for the Key spoke system.
It's built 24-hole 4-cross lacing, but apparently it's experiencing spoke rub.
Since the tension was loose to begin with, I could probably prevent the spoke rub just by tightening things up more,
but the customer said partial rebuilding would be fine too, so let's give it a try.
The hub is an early-model Novatec 482 with a 12mm steel axle.
In Tni (Japanese wheel brand) terms, it would be equivalent to an Evo Hub I (the 15mm aluminum axle version is the Evo Hub II).
The rim is an Equinox, manufactured in 2013.
I unraveled and disassembled only the non-drive side.
After temporarily threading six black CX-RAY spokes on the non-drive side,
I tightened the drive-side nipples by 1¼ turns (450°) as a starting point
(beyond that it's fine-tuning, but those adjustments are mostly in the tightening direction too).
Before disassembly, the wheel's lateral centering was barely detectable on the centering gauge—
it was "pretty much centered,"
so if I center the wheel after tightening the drive side,
the drive side will definitely be under more tension than before the rebuild.
The condition before rebuilding was loose enough that I could easily make the black spokes' crossings vibrate,
so not every wheel with this exact spec develops spoke rub.
Rebuilding complete.
I've switched the non-drive side to black CX-RAY and built it 4-cross with a wire connector.
The customer seemed impressed enough to say "What on earth is this!"
Mission accomplished.