A customer dropped off a Reynolds Attack for me to work on.
The customer had tried to true the wheel themselves,
but ended up cracking a nipple in the process.
↑Right there.
Just replacing that nipple and truing it up would've been doable without peeling back the adhesive rim tape—
I managed it with a spoke wrench tool for Fulcrum Racing 3 nipples—
but the whole wheel felt loose, which bothered them.
They wanted a semi-competition, 4x cross lacing pattern with spoke crossing.
From what I could tell, the customer's adjustments had been on the loose side,
so the non-drive side was particularly loose compared to a stock Reynolds wheel,
and the spokes had developed a lot of flex.
Besides the cracked nipple, there were plenty of stripped nipples,
so I didn't reuse any of them.
Also, like in the photos, the spoke flat orientation was pointing all over the place—pretty amateur work—
but it literally was an amateur doing it, so I'm not saying anything!
You can adjust the nipples on this wheel from the outside too,
but as I mentioned earlier, you'd have to peel back the adhesive rim tape (which can't be reused) to do that,
so adjusting from the inside is unavoidable in this situation.
Whether this design assumes outside adjustment or not,
the inside square wrench flats are extremely short,
and on top of that, the edges aren't sharp—they're rounded off oddly—
plus the threadlocker is applied pretty aggressively,
so all the conditions for stripping nipples are perfectly lined up.
According to the customer, on top of all that,
they used cheap tools to turn them.
All done.
Leaf Hub 24H, black semi-competition 4x lacing with spoke crossing.
For a spoke-crossing wheel, or so the autocorrect says
They said this was their first Nomo Lab wheel as a race wheel,
but they normally ride on a PowerTap rear wheel that I built for them.
Thanks for your continued business.
As for the actual weight of the rim, now that Kani-Kousens is gone, there's no risk of being scooped on that.
The customer had tried to true the wheel themselves,
but ended up cracking a nipple in the process.
↑Right there.
Just replacing that nipple and truing it up would've been doable without peeling back the adhesive rim tape—
I managed it with a spoke wrench tool for Fulcrum Racing 3 nipples—
but the whole wheel felt loose, which bothered them.
They wanted a semi-competition, 4x cross lacing pattern with spoke crossing.
From what I could tell, the customer's adjustments had been on the loose side,
so the non-drive side was particularly loose compared to a stock Reynolds wheel,
and the spokes had developed a lot of flex.
Besides the cracked nipple, there were plenty of stripped nipples,
so I didn't reuse any of them.
but it literally was an amateur doing it, so I'm not saying anything!
You can adjust the nipples on this wheel from the outside too,
but as I mentioned earlier, you'd have to peel back the adhesive rim tape (which can't be reused) to do that,
so adjusting from the inside is unavoidable in this situation.
Whether this design assumes outside adjustment or not,
the inside square wrench flats are extremely short,
and on top of that, the edges aren't sharp—they're rounded off oddly—
plus the threadlocker is applied pretty aggressively,
so all the conditions for stripping nipples are perfectly lined up.
According to the customer, on top of all that,
they used cheap tools to turn them.
All done.
Leaf Hub 24H, black semi-competition 4x lacing with spoke crossing.
They said this was their first Nomo Lab wheel as a race wheel,
but they normally ride on a PowerTap rear wheel that I built for them.
Thanks for your continued business.
As for the actual weight of the rim, now that Kani-Kousens is gone, there's no risk of being scooped on that.