More wheel work today (and so on).
Continuing from yesterday.
The rear wheel rim is also dished out, so it needs replacement.
The rear hub also has nipples on the hub shell side,
and uses a radial lacing pattern on the freewheel side.
This stepped-spline aluminum freebody
is cleverly designed so that 9-speed sprockets only fit partway,
and I suspect this is where Shimano's signature approach of
"actively breaking compatibility with older components" began.
The right end nut uses reverse threading.
This is basically a straight copy of Campagnolo hub design,
and the Dura-Ace hub with the typical three-pawl spring
is something you only see in this generation.
The 7900 hub reverted to a format more like the 7700.
The final crossing on the non-freewheel side is spaced too far apart laterally to lace.
Either way I wasn't going to reuse them, but there were some bent spokes.
The pawl-spring style freebody
used on most rear hubs.
The 7800 rear hub uses loose ball bearings.
So you need the grease applied to the ball races to hold the steel balls in place.
I threaded the hub axle through from the freewheel side.
If the hub axle tilts at this point, a gap forms where the steel balls just fall into the hub shell.
Assembling without applying grease to the ball races isn't impossible,
but it's extremely difficult and ultimately futile.
The 7801, a minor update version with the same design,
switched to cartridge bearings instead.
I cleaned the hub and reassembled it.
When I set the bearing adjustment loose on the hub alone,
a slight lateral play developed once tension was applied during wheel building,
so I readjusted the bearings again.
Like the front hub, there's surprisingly little wear on the bearings
considering the rim had reached the end of its life.
The hub shell has "Dura-Ace" markings in two places,
but they're nearly worn away.
This one's still somewhat readable,
so I oriented it to be visible when looking through the valve hole.
It's laced up.
I used the rim from Nomu Lab Wheel #1.
The freewheel-side spokes are DT Champion,
and the non-freewheel side is CX-RAY, so it's half Champion.
Either the #1 or #5 Nomu Lab rim would have worked,
but with the #5 rim, if you do a radial lacing with 14-gauge plain spokes
and tension it high, the rim holes might not be able to handle it.
Bonus
As promised, a case of bead hook failure.
You'd think the rim side spread would be obvious before it gets this bad,
so people might say this is preventable trouble,
but in this particular case, that's not quite right.
I'll write up the details sometime soon.
Continuing from yesterday.
The rear wheel rim is also dished out, so it needs replacement.
The rear hub also has nipples on the hub shell side,
and uses a radial lacing pattern on the freewheel side.
This stepped-spline aluminum freebody
is cleverly designed so that 9-speed sprockets only fit partway,
and I suspect this is where Shimano's signature approach of
"actively breaking compatibility with older components" began.
The right end nut uses reverse threading.
This is basically a straight copy of Campagnolo hub design,
and the Dura-Ace hub with the typical three-pawl spring
is something you only see in this generation.
The 7900 hub reverted to a format more like the 7700.
The final crossing on the non-freewheel side is spaced too far apart laterally to lace.
Either way I wasn't going to reuse them, but there were some bent spokes.
The pawl-spring style freebody
used on most rear hubs.
The 7800 rear hub uses loose ball bearings.
So you need the grease applied to the ball races to hold the steel balls in place.
I threaded the hub axle through from the freewheel side.
If the hub axle tilts at this point, a gap forms where the steel balls just fall into the hub shell.
Assembling without applying grease to the ball races isn't impossible,
but it's extremely difficult and ultimately futile.
The 7801, a minor update version with the same design,
switched to cartridge bearings instead.
I cleaned the hub and reassembled it.
When I set the bearing adjustment loose on the hub alone,
a slight lateral play developed once tension was applied during wheel building,
so I readjusted the bearings again.
Like the front hub, there's surprisingly little wear on the bearings
considering the rim had reached the end of its life.
The hub shell has "Dura-Ace" markings in two places,
but they're nearly worn away.
This one's still somewhat readable,
so I oriented it to be visible when looking through the valve hole.
It's laced up.
I used the rim from Nomu Lab Wheel #1.
The freewheel-side spokes are DT Champion,
and the non-freewheel side is CX-RAY, so it's half Champion.
Either the #1 or #5 Nomu Lab rim would have worked,
but with the #5 rim, if you do a radial lacing with 14-gauge plain spokes
and tension it high, the rim holes might not be able to handle it.
Bonus
As promised, a case of bead hook failure.
You'd think the rim side spread would be obvious before it gets this bad,
so people might say this is preventable trouble,
but in this particular case, that's not quite right.
I'll write up the details sometime soon.