On the RR440 rim from the other day,
I want to add some details about why I replaced the rim tape.
The image above shows the front rim, but in the section where it shifts to one side,
the edge of the rim tape ends up catching right on the hump.
In the case of the rear rim,
since it's an offset rim, the rim holes are drilled
on top of the hump, so
"unless you install the rim tape shifted to the left side across the entire circumference,
you end up with the holes visible from the edge of the rim tape."
In reality, it's the tire bead that sits over the holes,
and as long as the tube doesn't sink in,
it shouldn't cause a puncture, I thought,
but I wasn't sure what would happen
if the rim tape deformed into the rim holes under air pressure, so...
But suddenly, shifting topics,
last year, there was a period longer than ever before
where I didn't replace the soldering iron tip,
and I got a new one at the beginning of the year.
It seems the tip wears faster when I do black spoke lacing,
so I'm thinking of dedicating separate soldering irons
for silver spokes and black spokes (plus drilling Stans rim tape holes),
but I still haven't gotten around to it yet.
I spend about 900 yen each time replacing parts on a soldering iron that costs less than 2,000 yen,
and even if I used them as disposable, the cost wouldn't really be that different,
yet I keep choosing the option of replacing the part.
And it's already gotten to this state.
Even on tubeless-ready carbon rims, I drill the valve hole with a soldering iron,
but since I don't spend enough time for the heat to negatively affect the rim, there's no problem.
After applying the rim tape,
I threw on whatever tire and tube I had handy
and pressurized it to 9 bar initially.
The rim tape sits perfectly snug, covering the full width of the rim,
and I can faintly see the offset rim holes through the tape.
I want to add some details about why I replaced the rim tape.
The image above shows the front rim, but in the section where it shifts to one side,
the edge of the rim tape ends up catching right on the hump.
In the case of the rear rim,
since it's an offset rim, the rim holes are drilled
on top of the hump, so
"unless you install the rim tape shifted to the left side across the entire circumference,
you end up with the holes visible from the edge of the rim tape."
In reality, it's the tire bead that sits over the holes,
and as long as the tube doesn't sink in,
it shouldn't cause a puncture, I thought,
but I wasn't sure what would happen
if the rim tape deformed into the rim holes under air pressure, so...
But suddenly, shifting topics,
last year, there was a period longer than ever before
where I didn't replace the soldering iron tip,
and I got a new one at the beginning of the year.
It seems the tip wears faster when I do black spoke lacing,
so I'm thinking of dedicating separate soldering irons
for silver spokes and black spokes (plus drilling Stans rim tape holes),
but I still haven't gotten around to it yet.
I spend about 900 yen each time replacing parts on a soldering iron that costs less than 2,000 yen,
and even if I used them as disposable, the cost wouldn't really be that different,
yet I keep choosing the option of replacing the part.
And it's already gotten to this state.
Even on tubeless-ready carbon rims, I drill the valve hole with a soldering iron,
but since I don't spend enough time for the heat to negatively affect the rim, there's no problem.
After applying the rim tape,
I threw on whatever tire and tube I had handy
and pressurized it to 9 bar initially.
The rim tape sits perfectly snug, covering the full width of the rim,
and I can faintly see the offset rim holes through the tape.