A customer brought in a Shamal Ultra for service.
The titanium-colored anodizing comes after the original gold generation,
so in terms of color this is the second generation,
but the 2WAY-FIT version first appeared in this era.
The customer wanted an overhaul,
but both front and rear wheels had no centering issues and virtually no runout,
so really all I did was cleaning and lubrication.
For the front hub,
the cone
and cup are worn nicely with no replacement needed.
Cleaned and reassembled.
No radial runout either.
With a G3-laced rear wheel, there are seven points deflecting toward the inside,
so you can't get it this tight.
This particular anodize color on the BB cups and aluminum spoke nipples from that era
tends to flake off over time.
Fortunately, there were no seized nipples, so no issues.
Besides, there was barely any runout to begin with.
This is dead center after the work,
but the wheel center can shift depending on how much the lock washer bites in
when removing hub play,
so I can't know exactly what it was before (strictly speaking, before disassembling the hub).
I suppose as long as the center ends up right, it's fine,
but it does bug me, so I'll check it on the rear wheel before disassembling.
↑Before disassembly
↑Dead center
↑Timeline jumps here, but after hub cleaning and reassembly
there's about one sheet of paper's worth of gap.
The hub had no play before work,
and the right end nut wasn't loose either.
Since there was virtually no runout, this pattern was the same regardless of phase.
Did the centering.
The rear hub's ball races and bearings showed no damage.
On rear hubs from this era, if you need to replace spokes on the non-driveside,
you have to first remove the driveside spokes that overlap them.
On current models, the non-driveside spokes are hooked from inside the flange,
so individual replacement is possible.
Getting this area shiny is really only possible on occasions like this.
No pawl spring replacement needed.
The hub axle rotation had a faint roughness,
but it disappears when the freebody is removed,
so the freebody bearings must be damaged.
When only one side is more damaged, it's almost always the outer bearing.
And indeed, there was some corrosion transfer directly below the outer bearing.
In person it wasn't damaged enough to absolutely require replacement,
but it's a good opportunity and the part isn't expensive,
so I replaced just the outer bearing.
The titanium-colored anodizing comes after the original gold generation,
so in terms of color this is the second generation,
but the 2WAY-FIT version first appeared in this era.
The customer wanted an overhaul,
but both front and rear wheels had no centering issues and virtually no runout,
so really all I did was cleaning and lubrication.
For the front hub,
the cone
and cup are worn nicely with no replacement needed.
Cleaned and reassembled.
No radial runout either.
With a G3-laced rear wheel, there are seven points deflecting toward the inside,
so you can't get it this tight.
This particular anodize color on the BB cups and aluminum spoke nipples from that era
tends to flake off over time.
Fortunately, there were no seized nipples, so no issues.
Besides, there was barely any runout to begin with.
This is dead center after the work,
but the wheel center can shift depending on how much the lock washer bites in
when removing hub play,
so I can't know exactly what it was before (strictly speaking, before disassembling the hub).
I suppose as long as the center ends up right, it's fine,
but it does bug me, so I'll check it on the rear wheel before disassembling.
↑Before disassembly
↑Dead center
↑Timeline jumps here, but after hub cleaning and reassembly
there's about one sheet of paper's worth of gap.
The hub had no play before work,
and the right end nut wasn't loose either.
Since there was virtually no runout, this pattern was the same regardless of phase.
Did the centering.
The rear hub's ball races and bearings showed no damage.
On rear hubs from this era, if you need to replace spokes on the non-driveside,
you have to first remove the driveside spokes that overlap them.
On current models, the non-driveside spokes are hooked from inside the flange,
so individual replacement is possible.
Getting this area shiny is really only possible on occasions like this.
No pawl spring replacement needed.
The hub axle rotation had a faint roughness,
but it disappears when the freebody is removed,
so the freebody bearings must be damaged.
When only one side is more damaged, it's almost always the outer bearing.
And indeed, there was some corrosion transfer directly below the outer bearing.
In person it wasn't damaged enough to absolutely require replacement,
but it's a good opportunity and the part isn't expensive,
so I replaced just the outer bearing.