More wheels today (and so on).
I received a Ksyrium Pro UST from a customer (technically speaking).
I'm doing work on both wheels, but I only took photos of the rear wheel.
The usual situation.
I extracted cutting swarf from the rim.
The swarf was longer than the valve hole diameter, so it was a pain to extract, and
you can't remove it without taking off the tubeless valve—I thought these two points
might have some value as a post, but I shelved it.
Got it centered.
I took these photos on April 19th—over half a year ago now.
But anyway,
a customer who "used to" be the owner of that Ksyrium
asked me to build a rear wheel for their everyday bike.
I might have actually heard about this one before the Ksyrium came in.
The customer's bike is the kind of crossbike you'd find at a home center,
with a front basket. The rim size isn't 27 inches (ETRTO 630mm)
but 700C (ETRTO 622mm), the brakes are V-brakes (Shimano's name for long-arm cantilever brakes),
and the rear hub over-locknut dimension is 135mm.
The rear hub and sprocket format currently on the wheel is a multiple freewheel
(Shimano's term for boss freewheel) with 7 speeds, but
since the chain and sprocket will also be replaced when the rear wheel is swapped,
I decided to go with a 8-speed freehub.
A freehub is less prone to rear hub shaft breakage than a boss hub,
sprocket replacement is easier, and if you're replacing
the chain and sprocket with the cheapest-grade options,
the maintenance costs are essentially unchanged.
The shifters currently installed are 7-speed Revo shifters (Shimano's name for grip-rotation shifters),
but 8-speed Revo shifters cost around 1000 yen,
so the cost of upgrading from 7-speed to 8-speed is minimal.
The rear hub I sourced is an FH-T4000, Altus grade,
but the hub barrel is marked SHIMANO.
The FH-RM3000 is a 7-speed freewheel body hub
that comes in quick-release and also in a nut-retention version,
and I'll swap out the hub shaft and build the wheel with it.
Because the current rear wheel uses nut retention like a mama-chari bike.
So why go to the trouble of building a rear wheel? Well,
they want it built Molanbon style.
I told them "conspicuous wheels like that tend to get stolen by idiots," but...
It's built.
The rim is an ALEXRIMS DM18 in 36-hole.
The reason for 36-hole is "the front wheel is 36-hole,
so if the rear wheel has fewer spokes it'll look weird." Fair point,
but it already looks weird in other ways!
FH-T4000, 36-hole, Strong/Champion 6-cross lacing.
Even a wheel like this shows a difference when you do asymmetric left-right 2-cross vs. not.
I swapped the hub shaft before building the wheel, but
when I adjusted the bearing play slightly loose on the hub alone,
it developed play once I built it up.
Shimano's bearing adjustment on hubs and pedals at shipping is
calibrated within a remarkably narrow range to be just right.
I wonder how they pull that off.
With the DM18 rim, when I searched for a 36-hole black double-wall rim,
I had a harder time finding one than I expected.
It has a single eyelets, but whether it has eyelets or not
wasn't part of my search criteria.
The original wheel has a single-wall rim, but
I'd prefer a double-wall rim for better rim strength.
However, with 36-hole instead of 32-hole, unless we're talking about road tire rim width,
rims that match crossbike tire widths are pretty hard to find.
The other day I wrote that the 36-hole spec on the new 105 hub is
complete nonsense with zero interest in selling, but
36-hole rims really are rare.
About that Ksyrium at the start—why is the customer's ownership in the past tense?
They bought it because they wanted to try UST tubeless tires,
but they didn't actually say it that way; they said "it's not what I expected,"
and when they lent it to a teammate hoping to sell it to them,
that teammate also had a Nomulabo Wheel No. 5 and
said something similar, so the original owner listed it on auction.
When you weigh overall performance, the Nomulabo Wheel No. 5 isn't
a complete step up from the Ksyrium... but the reverse is also true.
After actually using them, there's compatibility to consider.
I'm not trying to say the Nomulabo Wheel No. 5 is superior to the Ksyrium
(honestly, I don't think that way), but
I got offered a deal on one too. I'd want just the front wheel, though.
For the rear, I'll build my own h（the rest omitted）.
Also, if you're only buying a Ksyrium front wheel, you might as well get a Racing Z（the rest omitted）.
I received a Ksyrium Pro UST from a customer (technically speaking).
I'm doing work on both wheels, but I only took photos of the rear wheel.
The usual situation.
I extracted cutting swarf from the rim.
The swarf was longer than the valve hole diameter, so it was a pain to extract, and
you can't remove it without taking off the tubeless valve—I thought these two points
might have some value as a post, but I shelved it.
Got it centered.
I took these photos on April 19th—over half a year ago now.
But anyway,
a customer who "used to" be the owner of that Ksyrium
asked me to build a rear wheel for their everyday bike.
I might have actually heard about this one before the Ksyrium came in.
The customer's bike is the kind of crossbike you'd find at a home center,
with a front basket. The rim size isn't 27 inches (ETRTO 630mm)
but 700C (ETRTO 622mm), the brakes are V-brakes (Shimano's name for long-arm cantilever brakes),
and the rear hub over-locknut dimension is 135mm.
The rear hub and sprocket format currently on the wheel is a multiple freewheel
(Shimano's term for boss freewheel) with 7 speeds, but
since the chain and sprocket will also be replaced when the rear wheel is swapped,
I decided to go with a 8-speed freehub.
A freehub is less prone to rear hub shaft breakage than a boss hub,
sprocket replacement is easier, and if you're replacing
the chain and sprocket with the cheapest-grade options,
the maintenance costs are essentially unchanged.
The shifters currently installed are 7-speed Revo shifters (Shimano's name for grip-rotation shifters),
but 8-speed Revo shifters cost around 1000 yen,
so the cost of upgrading from 7-speed to 8-speed is minimal.
The rear hub I sourced is an FH-T4000, Altus grade,
but the hub barrel is marked SHIMANO.
The FH-RM3000 is a 7-speed freewheel body hub
that comes in quick-release and also in a nut-retention version,
and I'll swap out the hub shaft and build the wheel with it.
Because the current rear wheel uses nut retention like a mama-chari bike.
So why go to the trouble of building a rear wheel? Well,
they want it built Molanbon style.
I told them "conspicuous wheels like that tend to get stolen by idiots," but...
It's built.
The rim is an ALEXRIMS DM18 in 36-hole.
The reason for 36-hole is "the front wheel is 36-hole,
so if the rear wheel has fewer spokes it'll look weird." Fair point,
but it already looks weird in other ways!
FH-T4000, 36-hole, Strong/Champion 6-cross lacing.
Even a wheel like this shows a difference when you do asymmetric left-right 2-cross vs. not.
I swapped the hub shaft before building the wheel, but
when I adjusted the bearing play slightly loose on the hub alone,
it developed play once I built it up.
Shimano's bearing adjustment on hubs and pedals at shipping is
calibrated within a remarkably narrow range to be just right.
I wonder how they pull that off.
With the DM18 rim, when I searched for a 36-hole black double-wall rim,
I had a harder time finding one than I expected.
It has a single eyelets, but whether it has eyelets or not
wasn't part of my search criteria.
The original wheel has a single-wall rim, but
I'd prefer a double-wall rim for better rim strength.
However, with 36-hole instead of 32-hole, unless we're talking about road tire rim width,
rims that match crossbike tire widths are pretty hard to find.
The other day I wrote that the 36-hole spec on the new 105 hub is
complete nonsense with zero interest in selling, but
36-hole rims really are rare.
About that Ksyrium at the start—why is the customer's ownership in the past tense?
They bought it because they wanted to try UST tubeless tires,
but they didn't actually say it that way; they said "it's not what I expected,"
and when they lent it to a teammate hoping to sell it to them,
that teammate also had a Nomulabo Wheel No. 5 and
said something similar, so the original owner listed it on auction.
When you weigh overall performance, the Nomulabo Wheel No. 5 isn't
a complete step up from the Ksyrium... but the reverse is also true.
After actually using them, there's compatibility to consider.
I'm not trying to say the Nomulabo Wheel No. 5 is superior to the Ksyrium
(honestly, I don't think that way), but
I got offered a deal on one too. I'd want just the front wheel, though.
For the rear, I'll build my own h（the rest omitted）.
Also, if you're only buying a Ksyrium front wheel, you might as well get a Racing Z（the rest omitted）.