Another wheel day (etc.).
I received a 700C aluminum rim rear wheel built with an Alfine hub from a customer.
The hub is an SG-S7001-11, the successor model to the SG-S700,
and as the last digit in the part number indicates, it's internal 11-speed.
It has disc brake mounting lugs, and the offset amount, as Shimano calls it, is 3.2mm.
Compared to a Dura-Ace Track large flange rear hub with single-threaded cups where the offset is 5.25mm,
this has less dish, so I shouldn't do left-right different diameter/different spoke count lacing.
The customer wants me to disassemble this rear wheel and rebuild it with an XR361 27.5-inch rim.
By the way, it's the partner to the front wheel I built yesterday.
The XR361 rim is an offset rim, which balances well with this hub's small dish,
so I definitely shouldn't do left-right different diameter/different spoke count lacing.
Also worth noting, the hub flanges are the same diameter on both sides.
When building the wheel, I asked the customer about the specifications of parts like chain tensioners that mount inside the frame.
In cases where a chain tensioner is used on only one side, centering the wheel by itself can sometimes result in center offset when installed on the frame.
They said the wheel should be centered properly on its own.
In its original state, the rim was offset to the left.
The lacing is 32H, all-black Champion JIS 3-cross with black brass nipples.
Compared to a road hub's large flange, these flanges are super-large, so the final crossing angle is quite obtuse even with 4-cross lacing,
and 6-cross might not be necessary.
Since the new rim is 27.5-inch, smaller than before, the angle becomes even more obtuse.
There was a broken spoke that had been repaired with a silver spoke,
but only this one had a star marking with a Starbright stamp.
The black Champion nipples are DT 3.2mm across-the-flats nipples, but
the spoke with the Starbright marking uses a 3.4mm across-the-flats nipple. For some reason, it's heavily stripped.
When sports bike wheels get repaired at a mama-chari (mamachari) shop, you sometimes see them use 3.4mm nipples only for the repair section
and then use a 3.4mm nipple wrench on the other 3.2mm nipples, stripping them up.
This might be the reverse situation.
The spoke length at the repair section is clearly longer,
but the original spoke length was even longer.
You'd definitely notice this during the initial wheel buildup,
and you can't proceed with wheel building at that length.
If you have a spoke cutter, since these are plain spokes,
you should be able to cut them shorter to whatever length you need.
↑ For this final crossing pair on the left and right (4 spokes total) including the repair section,
I disassembled the wheel without touching any of the nipples,
and pulled them out of the rim.
The spokes were way too long.
The tension was loose, but they'd threaded the nipples all the way to the end with no room left to tighten further,
which was the reason for the low tension.
This spoke with the H marking, supposedly a Starbright,
is what I call a fake Starbright or crappy Starbright based on its magnetic properties.
I'll write about this and the star spokes soon.
Built.
All Campy Loc JIS lacing.
For certain reasons, I went with 6-cross.Hehe.
W-well, I was told I could lace it however I wanted...
I've centered it spot-on for now.
If there are any issues down the road, I can adjust it later.
Edit:
Regarding the reason for "centered spot-on for now, if there are issues...",
as I wrote above, parts like chain tensioners that will be installed later
can have different widths on left and right due to frame specifications,
and centering that includes the width of those parts
may become necessary.
I received a 700C aluminum rim rear wheel built with an Alfine hub from a customer.
The hub is an SG-S7001-11, the successor model to the SG-S700,
and as the last digit in the part number indicates, it's internal 11-speed.
It has disc brake mounting lugs, and the offset amount, as Shimano calls it, is 3.2mm.
Compared to a Dura-Ace Track large flange rear hub with single-threaded cups where the offset is 5.25mm,
this has less dish, so I shouldn't do left-right different diameter/different spoke count lacing.
The customer wants me to disassemble this rear wheel and rebuild it with an XR361 27.5-inch rim.
By the way, it's the partner to the front wheel I built yesterday.
The XR361 rim is an offset rim, which balances well with this hub's small dish,
so I definitely shouldn't do left-right different diameter/different spoke count lacing.
Also worth noting, the hub flanges are the same diameter on both sides.
When building the wheel, I asked the customer about the specifications of parts like chain tensioners that mount inside the frame.
In cases where a chain tensioner is used on only one side, centering the wheel by itself can sometimes result in center offset when installed on the frame.
They said the wheel should be centered properly on its own.
In its original state, the rim was offset to the left.
The lacing is 32H, all-black Champion JIS 3-cross with black brass nipples.
Compared to a road hub's large flange, these flanges are super-large, so the final crossing angle is quite obtuse even with 4-cross lacing,
and 6-cross might not be necessary.
Since the new rim is 27.5-inch, smaller than before, the angle becomes even more obtuse.
There was a broken spoke that had been repaired with a silver spoke,
but only this one had a star marking with a Starbright stamp.
The black Champion nipples are DT 3.2mm across-the-flats nipples, but
the spoke with the Starbright marking uses a 3.4mm across-the-flats nipple. For some reason, it's heavily stripped.
When sports bike wheels get repaired at a mama-chari (mamachari) shop, you sometimes see them use 3.4mm nipples only for the repair section
and then use a 3.4mm nipple wrench on the other 3.2mm nipples, stripping them up.
This might be the reverse situation.
The spoke length at the repair section is clearly longer,
but the original spoke length was even longer.
You'd definitely notice this during the initial wheel buildup,
and you can't proceed with wheel building at that length.
If you have a spoke cutter, since these are plain spokes,
you should be able to cut them shorter to whatever length you need.
↑ For this final crossing pair on the left and right (4 spokes total) including the repair section,
I disassembled the wheel without touching any of the nipples,
and pulled them out of the rim.
The spokes were way too long.
The tension was loose, but they'd threaded the nipples all the way to the end with no room left to tighten further,
which was the reason for the low tension.
This spoke with the H marking, supposedly a Starbright,
is what I call a fake Starbright or crappy Starbright based on its magnetic properties.
I'll write about this and the star spokes soon.
Built.
All Campy Loc JIS lacing.
For certain reasons, I went with 6-cross.
W-well, I was told I could lace it however I wanted...
I've centered it spot-on for now.
If there are any issues down the road, I can adjust it later.
Edit:
Regarding the reason for "centered spot-on for now, if there are issues...",
as I wrote above, parts like chain tensioners that will be installed later
can have different widths on left and right due to frame specifications,
and centering that includes the width of those parts
may become necessary.