Another wheel day (and so on).
I built the rear wheel to match yesterday's front wheel.
Shimano Superbe Pro fixed gear hub, 36H, black laced in an 88-pattern cross, but
since it's a double-threaded design
I'm using JIS lacing pattern.
I'll do the spoke tying later.
Older tubular rims sometimes have a textured, sawtooth-like surface machined into the tire seating area to improve adhesion of rim cement—kind of like the tread pattern on a tire.
You can see that on the sides in the photo above.
Though I should mention, since the bed is peeling here, it might not be the most convincing example...
↑The rim cement remaining only on the sides in this area shows that the machining is doing its job.
Aside from track cycling, I think Panaracer is the most widely used rim cement these days,
and their packaging (cans or tubes) says "fast-drying."
But historically speaking, Panaracer rim cement might as well be called "ultra-fast-drying."
Slow-drying rim cement takes several days to a week to dry, but the period until it fully hardens remains longer than fast-drying types, so if you let it cure properly, it's actually more reliable than fast-drying. Fast-drying cement, on the other hand, dries overnight for sure, and you can use it in just a few hours if you're lucky—but it becomes brittle and loses adhesive properties faster... or at least, that used to be the case.
Panaracer rim cement is ultra-fast-drying yet has a long period before becoming brittle. For wheels you ride regularly, you won't need to reapply cement until the tire itself wears out.
For wheels you don't ride often, or wheels used only for racing that are a couple years old, it might be worth recoating.
The machining on this rim was only necessary back when rim cement performance was poor. With modern ultra-fast-drying rim cement applied correctly, it doesn't really serve any purpose.
I built the rear wheel to match yesterday's front wheel.
Shimano Superbe Pro fixed gear hub, 36H, black laced in an 88-pattern cross, but
since it's a double-threaded design
I'm using JIS lacing pattern.
I'll do the spoke tying later.
Older tubular rims sometimes have a textured, sawtooth-like surface machined into the tire seating area to improve adhesion of rim cement—kind of like the tread pattern on a tire.
You can see that on the sides in the photo above.
Though I should mention, since the bed is peeling here, it might not be the most convincing example...
↑The rim cement remaining only on the sides in this area shows that the machining is doing its job.
Aside from track cycling, I think Panaracer is the most widely used rim cement these days,
and their packaging (cans or tubes) says "fast-drying."
But historically speaking, Panaracer rim cement might as well be called "ultra-fast-drying."
Slow-drying rim cement takes several days to a week to dry, but the period until it fully hardens remains longer than fast-drying types, so if you let it cure properly, it's actually more reliable than fast-drying. Fast-drying cement, on the other hand, dries overnight for sure, and you can use it in just a few hours if you're lucky—but it becomes brittle and loses adhesive properties faster... or at least, that used to be the case.
Panaracer rim cement is ultra-fast-drying yet has a long period before becoming brittle. For wheels you ride regularly, you won't need to reapply cement until the tire itself wears out.
For wheels you don't ride often, or wheels used only for racing that are a couple years old, it might be worth recoating.
The machining on this rim was only necessary back when rim cement performance was poor. With modern ultra-fast-drying rim cement applied correctly, it doesn't really serve any purpose.