Another wheel build day (and so on).
I received a Chris King rear hub from a customer (sort of).
It's an MTB rim brake hub with a 135mm quick-release dropout, but
there's no disc rotor mounting surface.
The hub body's anodized finish is turquoise.
In the image above, the end cap on the left looks like it's come off...
The hub axle has broken due to corrosion right below the end cap.
So I can't build a wheel with this.
I disassembled the hub.
The axle is corroded.
As it happens, I have the same hub in my personal stash with a different anodize color,
and it's not like I didn't need it,
but the customer (sort of) really wanted it, so I decided to give it to them.
You should be grateful!
However, my personal one has worse spline wear on the freebody than
the turquoise one, so
I decided to do a Frankenstein build, taking the best parts of each.
↑The bottom image shows my old axle.
It's clean, helped along by a light wipe.
The turquoise one's axle is
I wiped it with oil but the rust wouldn't come off at that level.
Since it wouldn't be usable even if the rust came off, I'm not going any further.
I cleaned all the parts, and
one completed rear hub.
The rim is Sun's M19A tubular rim from before
Sun and Ringlé merged.
19 is the rim width (actually measures 18.5mm),
and A presumably refers to the triangular aero profile.
Also, the rim label reads M19A II.
"European Hole Pattern" means what this blog calls properly-drilled rim holes,
and the reverse rim equivalent is "French Hole Pattern."
You might want to point out that France is also in Europe,
but that's just what they call them, so there's nothing to be done about it.
But looking at the inside rim holes, there's clearly no offset at all.
This is because the rim is narrow with a triangular profile and a sharp apex,
and if it had a flatter shape, it would have shown proper hole offset.
The outside holes did have offset.
If this were an internal nipple rim spec,
or if you were building with screw-valve nipples or similar
and inserting a screwdriver or T-handle nipple wrench from the outside,
then the hole offset would have meaning,
but when using standard nipples and turning them from the inside, it doesn't matter.
↑The valve hole orientation.
It's got proper hole offset, so European.
The turquoise hub's previous history was reverse Italian lacing
(it could potentially be reverse JIS from this side alone,
but I checked the freewheel side too).
It might have been a wheel built by an American.
Built.
32H, semi-comp 3-cross Italian lacing, and
looking from the freewheel side, the nipple colors clockwise from the valve hole are
red, turquoise, green, and gold.
I'll do the spoke tension balancing later.
I received a Chris King rear hub from a customer (sort of).
It's an MTB rim brake hub with a 135mm quick-release dropout, but
there's no disc rotor mounting surface.
The hub body's anodized finish is turquoise.
In the image above, the end cap on the left looks like it's come off...
The hub axle has broken due to corrosion right below the end cap.
So I can't build a wheel with this.
I disassembled the hub.
The axle is corroded.
As it happens, I have the same hub in my personal stash with a different anodize color,
and it's not like I didn't need it,
but the customer (sort of) really wanted it, so I decided to give it to them.
You should be grateful!
However, my personal one has worse spline wear on the freebody than
the turquoise one, so
I decided to do a Frankenstein build, taking the best parts of each.
↑The bottom image shows my old axle.
It's clean, helped along by a light wipe.
The turquoise one's axle is
I wiped it with oil but the rust wouldn't come off at that level.
Since it wouldn't be usable even if the rust came off, I'm not going any further.
I cleaned all the parts, and
one completed rear hub.
The rim is Sun's M19A tubular rim from before
Sun and Ringlé merged.
19 is the rim width (actually measures 18.5mm),
and A presumably refers to the triangular aero profile.
Also, the rim label reads M19A II.
"European Hole Pattern" means what this blog calls properly-drilled rim holes,
and the reverse rim equivalent is "French Hole Pattern."
You might want to point out that France is also in Europe,
but that's just what they call them, so there's nothing to be done about it.
But looking at the inside rim holes, there's clearly no offset at all.
This is because the rim is narrow with a triangular profile and a sharp apex,
and if it had a flatter shape, it would have shown proper hole offset.
The outside holes did have offset.
If this were an internal nipple rim spec,
or if you were building with screw-valve nipples or similar
and inserting a screwdriver or T-handle nipple wrench from the outside,
then the hole offset would have meaning,
but when using standard nipples and turning them from the inside, it doesn't matter.
↑The valve hole orientation.
It's got proper hole offset, so European.
The turquoise hub's previous history was reverse Italian lacing
(it could potentially be reverse JIS from this side alone,
but I checked the freewheel side too).
It might have been a wheel built by an American.
Built.
32H, semi-comp 3-cross Italian lacing, and
looking from the freewheel side, the nipple colors clockwise from the valve hole are
red, turquoise, green, and gold.
I'll do the spoke tension balancing later.