Another day, another wheel (and so on).
A customer entrusted me with a Sun Rhino Lite rim.
It's a DH-type rim from back when tubeless tires and disc brakes
weren't yet standard on MTBs.
Separately, there's also a Limelight, a lightweight XC rim,
and personally I think it might be the masterpiece of 26-inch
rim brake rims.
Or maybe it's the Araya RM-395 Team XC.
In terms of how many were in circulation, the MAVIC X517 would take the prize.
Got it built.
A Surly Ultra New Hub 32H
all Campagnolo Cromo, JIS standard lacing with no cross-over.
This single-speed hub has various different specs for left and right sides, but
this time one side is a fixed cog mount, and
the other side is a 6-bolt disc rotor mount.
This is from a past post, where
the right side is a single freewheel mount,
and the gear-side flange sticks out further to the outside,
so the dish is reversed compared to a normal multi-speed hub—but that's typical.
The amount of dish is less than on a Dura-Ace track hub with single-thread cut,
so I don't need to resort to asymmetrical lacing or anything like that.
The customer wanted it "as strong as possible,"
so I considered either all Stainless or reverse-diameter lacing
with Cromo/Stainless mixed. The image above shows
trying to thread Stainless through the hub flange, but
with single-butted spokes—gauge 13 near the head, then gauge 14 to the end—
14 gauge <<< flange >>> 13 gauge
The 13-gauge portion wouldn't fit through the flange hole diameter,
so I built it all Cromo.
The valve hole has a diameter for Schrader/British valve specs,
but this is a Presta valve hole drilled out afterward.
It's sloppy enough that I can tell it was done after the fact.
The focus is off (a subtle flex about hub flange phase alignment).
The hole on the outer rim side is larger.
Maybe they reamed it conically after drilling through.
But why is the outline nowhere near a perfect circle?
You can use a tapered tube adapter (reducer) with a flange
to convert a Schrader hole to a Presta size, and then use
a Presta tube, but don't use the stepped valve nut
plus Presta valve setup like on Schwalbe tubes.
It causes punctures near the valve base.
Since they'll probably be using disc brakes (hub-side brake),
I think the valve will be less likely to tilt than with rim brakes.
Since it's for street riding (※), if the tire size isn't extreme,
it might be better to just run it with a Schrader valve.
※ I think the cog mount was for a fixed cog,
but we shouldn't dwell on that.
The hub's end section is the same as a normal quick-release hub,
with the area just below the frame supported by the hub axle
(PAUL and White Industries rear hubs, for example, sometimes use
10mm diameter hub bolts instead of the hub axle
for the area just below the frame).
With the threads cut on the inside of the hub axle,
you can secure it with a hub bolt, or you can also use a quick-release,
but with a fixed cog, bolted mounting is better.
With bolts, there's also the advantage that compression force isn't applied to the hub bearings.
A customer entrusted me with a Sun Rhino Lite rim.
It's a DH-type rim from back when tubeless tires and disc brakes
weren't yet standard on MTBs.
Separately, there's also a Limelight, a lightweight XC rim,
and personally I think it might be the masterpiece of 26-inch
rim brake rims.
Or maybe it's the Araya RM-395 Team XC.
In terms of how many were in circulation, the MAVIC X517 would take the prize.
Got it built.
A Surly Ultra New Hub 32H
all Campagnolo Cromo, JIS standard lacing with no cross-over.
This single-speed hub has various different specs for left and right sides, but
this time one side is a fixed cog mount, and
the other side is a 6-bolt disc rotor mount.
This is from a past post, where
the right side is a single freewheel mount,
and the gear-side flange sticks out further to the outside,
so the dish is reversed compared to a normal multi-speed hub—but that's typical.
The amount of dish is less than on a Dura-Ace track hub with single-thread cut,
so I don't need to resort to asymmetrical lacing or anything like that.
The customer wanted it "as strong as possible,"
so I considered either all Stainless or reverse-diameter lacing
with Cromo/Stainless mixed. The image above shows
trying to thread Stainless through the hub flange, but
with single-butted spokes—gauge 13 near the head, then gauge 14 to the end—
14 gauge <<< flange >>> 13 gauge
The 13-gauge portion wouldn't fit through the flange hole diameter,
so I built it all Cromo.
The valve hole has a diameter for Schrader/British valve specs,
but this is a Presta valve hole drilled out afterward.
It's sloppy enough that I can tell it was done after the fact.
The focus is off (a subtle flex about hub flange phase alignment).
The hole on the outer rim side is larger.
Maybe they reamed it conically after drilling through.
But why is the outline nowhere near a perfect circle?
You can use a tapered tube adapter (reducer) with a flange
to convert a Schrader hole to a Presta size, and then use
a Presta tube, but don't use the stepped valve nut
plus Presta valve setup like on Schwalbe tubes.
It causes punctures near the valve base.
Since they'll probably be using disc brakes (hub-side brake),
I think the valve will be less likely to tilt than with rim brakes.
Since it's for street riding (※), if the tire size isn't extreme,
it might be better to just run it with a Schrader valve.
※ I think the cog mount was for a fixed cog,
but we shouldn't dwell on that.
The hub's end section is the same as a normal quick-release hub,
with the area just below the frame supported by the hub axle
(PAUL and White Industries rear hubs, for example, sometimes use
10mm diameter hub bolts instead of the hub axle
for the area just below the frame).
With the threads cut on the inside of the hub axle,
you can secure it with a hub bolt, or you can also use a quick-release,
but with a fixed cog, bolted mounting is better.
With bolts, there's also the advantage that compression force isn't applied to the hub bearings.