I received the front wheel of a Nomu Lab Wheel No. 5 (custom wheel set) from a customer.
Not long after I handed it over,
it got caught in a grating and developed some wobble.
They mentioned hoping the rim wasn't damaged, but
it was clearly a potato chip-style bend, so I attempted some truing at first,
but determined that a rim replacement was necessary.
I completely released the spoke tension,
and when I seated a new rim at a certain phase alignment
↑there are phases where there's this much of a gap.
In the middle of transferring the rim...
This time I used the method of "alternating by spoke hole, threading the spokes through the new rim on the side farther from one flange."
Maybe someday the style of rim transfer will get a name like a cat's cradle technique.
All assembled.
I don't know who decided this, but rim transfers—work where
the rim and hub aren't completely separated—
don't meet the "today's whee..." conditions.
Like yesterday's ZIPP, these take longer than building a wheel
from loose components,
but those don't count as "today's whee..." either.
So anyway, "today's whee..."
I received a rear wheel for a Nomu Lab Wheel No. 5 from a customer.
It's from a different customer than the front wheel from before,
but they both have the Nomu Lab sticker on the hub shell in common.
One spoke on the non-drive side has broken right at the thread start.
This time I'm doing a full spoke replacement, not just replacing that one.
I want to reuse the rim, but after releasing the tension,
I'll cut out the spokes and check against a glass surface plate—
if there's even the slightest bend, I'll replace it.
I separated the rim. The one noticeably longer spoke in the image
is the one that was already broken.
The rim had a slight bend to it.
It could have been reused, but I'm replacing it.
The rear hub rotation had roughness,
but when I removed the freewheel body and tested just the hub bearings alone,
they ran smoothly,
so it's confirmed that only the freewheel body bearings are damaged.
The freewheel body has 15267 bearings (two of them),
and since the bearing replacement cost plus labor is roughly equal to
replacing the entire freewheel body,
unless only the outer bearing is extremely damaged,
I often handle it by replacing the whole freewheel body instead of just the bearings.
This time, on top of that, the ratchet pawls are rusted
and don't spring back well.
↑Compared side by side with a new one.
The pawl return spring wasn't actually broken.
Come to think of it, unlike Campagnolo, I've never seen one of these break.
All assembled.
Same as before: 24H, black semi-comp crossed lacing pattern with red aluminum nipples.
I'll do the truing later.
↑Drive side
↑Non-drive side
I usually rebuild wheels while keeping the relationship between radial and tangential spokes the same, but this time I changed it.
There are traces of radial spoke heads on the outer side of both flanges where the tangential spokes are now.
Not long after I handed it over,
it got caught in a grating and developed some wobble.
They mentioned hoping the rim wasn't damaged, but
it was clearly a potato chip-style bend, so I attempted some truing at first,
but determined that a rim replacement was necessary.
I completely released the spoke tension,
and when I seated a new rim at a certain phase alignment
↑there are phases where there's this much of a gap.
In the middle of transferring the rim...
This time I used the method of "alternating by spoke hole, threading the spokes through the new rim on the side farther from one flange."
Maybe someday the style of rim transfer will get a name like a cat's cradle technique.
All assembled.
I don't know who decided this, but rim transfers—work where
the rim and hub aren't completely separated—
don't meet the "today's whee..." conditions.
Like yesterday's ZIPP, these take longer than building a wheel
from loose components,
but those don't count as "today's whee..." either.
So anyway, "today's whee..."
I received a rear wheel for a Nomu Lab Wheel No. 5 from a customer.
It's from a different customer than the front wheel from before,
but they both have the Nomu Lab sticker on the hub shell in common.
One spoke on the non-drive side has broken right at the thread start.
This time I'm doing a full spoke replacement, not just replacing that one.
I want to reuse the rim, but after releasing the tension,
I'll cut out the spokes and check against a glass surface plate—
if there's even the slightest bend, I'll replace it.
I separated the rim. The one noticeably longer spoke in the image
is the one that was already broken.
The rim had a slight bend to it.
It could have been reused, but I'm replacing it.
The rear hub rotation had roughness,
but when I removed the freewheel body and tested just the hub bearings alone,
they ran smoothly,
so it's confirmed that only the freewheel body bearings are damaged.
The freewheel body has 15267 bearings (two of them),
and since the bearing replacement cost plus labor is roughly equal to
replacing the entire freewheel body,
unless only the outer bearing is extremely damaged,
I often handle it by replacing the whole freewheel body instead of just the bearings.
This time, on top of that, the ratchet pawls are rusted
and don't spring back well.
↑Compared side by side with a new one.
The pawl return spring wasn't actually broken.
Come to think of it, unlike Campagnolo, I've never seen one of these break.
All assembled.
Same as before: 24H, black semi-comp crossed lacing pattern with red aluminum nipples.
I'll do the truing later.
↑Drive side
↑Non-drive side
I usually rebuild wheels while keeping the relationship between radial and tangential spokes the same, but this time I changed it.
There are traces of radial spoke heads on the outer side of both flanges where the tangential spokes are now.