Another day of wheel building (and so on).
A customer asked me to build wheels for their overseas bicycle tour,
so they left me with a 36H hub and rim.
The hub is XT,
and the rim is a Sun Rhinolite.
Wide rim!
The rider isn't particularly heavy, but they'll be carrying a load comparable to their body weight,
so the bike will experience over 100kg of load.
I used DT Champion 2.0 spokes and brass nipples.
Starting with the front wheel.
Unusually for a new Shimano hub, there was some play in it.
While I was building the wheel, I noticed that lateral runout would appear and disappear
at the same spot, which is how I caught it.
Some Shimano through-axle hubs have intentional play designed so they fit perfectly
during assembly, but this wasn't that kind of situation.
I do full inspections on Tni (フナブラシ) hubs that I normally use,
but I hadn't developed the habit of suspecting Shimano hubs,
so I only noticed while building the wheel.
The front hub has an ochoko (dish offset).
If we assume the rear hub's ochoko is the standard, then this would be a "reverse ochoko."
To correct the left-right difference in spoke tension, it would be a 64/84 lacing pattern
instead of 46/48, but that would make the rotor side nearly radial laced,
which I want to avoid.
So in the end it became 66 lacing.
The lacing pattern is reverse Italian, which is also Shimano's recommended pattern
and what I default to when no specific pattern is requested for disc brake hubs.
I cut the spokes about 1mm shorter than the calculated length.
This is because I normally build with spoke length that would have the spoke end flush with the nipple,
but with tightening you can sometimes go slightly over.
When I put my finger on the rim tape side hole of this rim, the fleshy part of my finger touches the nipple.
The nipple end and rim tape surface are extremely close together.
The rim tape sinks into the hole with tube pressure,
and if spoke ends are poking out from the nipple, it can cause a puncture.
So to make absolutely sure that doesn't happen, I made them slightly shorter.
That said, the spokes still reach the bottom of the minus groove,
so they're not too short.
The rear wheel is built too.
I'd like to try some fancy lacing patterns, but I'm worried about trouble on the road,
so I'm keeping it straightforward with maintainability in mind.
That said, since the customer came from far away to have wheels built at my shop,
I wanted to do something special.
So I did 48 lacing for the rear wheel.
The rear hub has a rotor mounting surface,
but it doesn't overwhelm the free body's ochoko offset.
Unlike the front wheel, asymmetrical lacing and the rotor don't conflict on the rear,
so I went with 48 lacing.
The lacing pattern is JIS style.
Like the front wheel, this is also Shimano recommended and what I default to
whenever the customer doesn't specify otherwise.
A customer asked me to build wheels for their overseas bicycle tour,
so they left me with a 36H hub and rim.
The hub is XT,
and the rim is a Sun Rhinolite.
Wide rim!
The rider isn't particularly heavy, but they'll be carrying a load comparable to their body weight,
so the bike will experience over 100kg of load.
I used DT Champion 2.0 spokes and brass nipples.
Starting with the front wheel.
Unusually for a new Shimano hub, there was some play in it.
While I was building the wheel, I noticed that lateral runout would appear and disappear
at the same spot, which is how I caught it.
Some Shimano through-axle hubs have intentional play designed so they fit perfectly
during assembly, but this wasn't that kind of situation.
I do full inspections on Tni (フナブラシ) hubs that I normally use,
but I hadn't developed the habit of suspecting Shimano hubs,
so I only noticed while building the wheel.
The front hub has an ochoko (dish offset).
If we assume the rear hub's ochoko is the standard, then this would be a "reverse ochoko."
To correct the left-right difference in spoke tension, it would be a 64/84 lacing pattern
instead of 46/48, but that would make the rotor side nearly radial laced,
which I want to avoid.
So in the end it became 66 lacing.
The lacing pattern is reverse Italian, which is also Shimano's recommended pattern
and what I default to when no specific pattern is requested for disc brake hubs.
I cut the spokes about 1mm shorter than the calculated length.
This is because I normally build with spoke length that would have the spoke end flush with the nipple,
but with tightening you can sometimes go slightly over.
When I put my finger on the rim tape side hole of this rim, the fleshy part of my finger touches the nipple.
The nipple end and rim tape surface are extremely close together.
The rim tape sinks into the hole with tube pressure,
and if spoke ends are poking out from the nipple, it can cause a puncture.
So to make absolutely sure that doesn't happen, I made them slightly shorter.
That said, the spokes still reach the bottom of the minus groove,
so they're not too short.
The rear wheel is built too.
I'd like to try some fancy lacing patterns, but I'm worried about trouble on the road,
so I'm keeping it straightforward with maintainability in mind.
That said, since the customer came from far away to have wheels built at my shop,
I wanted to do something special.
So I did 48 lacing for the rear wheel.
The rear hub has a rotor mounting surface,
but it doesn't overwhelm the free body's ochoko offset.
Unlike the front wheel, asymmetrical lacing and the rotor don't conflict on the rear,
so I went with 48 lacing.
The lacing pattern is JIS style.
Like the front wheel, this is also Shimano recommended and what I default to
whenever the customer doesn't specify otherwise.