The rear wheel of the CLX32 that I recently rebuilt from a black Aero Light to a black CX Sprint
—the partner's rear wheel also needed rebuilding.
I was planning to do a left-right reverse mixed-diameter spoke pattern as a counter to the left-right mixed-number spokes,
and then true the freewheel side... or so I'd like to say,
but actually the CLX32 is
↑Freewheel side: Black Aero Light
↑Non-freewheel side: Black Aero Comp
Already in a left-right reverse mixed-diameter spoke configuration from the start—basically a half-CX Sprint setup.
The CLX nipples are aluminum, not brass,
and basically you grip the outer hex and turn it,
but you can also grip the inner square and turn it
with the same feel as standard nipples
without stripping it, so
when there's a reason not to peel off the rim tape,
I adjust by gripping the inner side.
The temporary center was shifted to the left.
There was also some wobble, so there might be a slightly better phase if I looked for it.
I trued the wobble by focusing on tightening the non-freewheel side,
which has the greater spoke tension.
Naturally, the amount of center shift increased.
From a state where there was no radial or lateral wobble,
but the center was shifted significantly toward the non-freewheel side,
I centered it by tightening the freewheel side.
In other words, every nipple was tightened to some degree compared to before.
This wasn't about just cranking everything tight—
I just brought the slack back up to around the upper limit of proper hanging tension.
And then I laced it up.
—the partner's rear wheel also needed rebuilding.
I was planning to do a left-right reverse mixed-diameter spoke pattern as a counter to the left-right mixed-number spokes,
and then true the freewheel side... or so I'd like to say,
but actually the CLX32 is
↑Freewheel side: Black Aero Light
↑Non-freewheel side: Black Aero Comp
Already in a left-right reverse mixed-diameter spoke configuration from the start—basically a half-CX Sprint setup.
The CLX nipples are aluminum, not brass,
and basically you grip the outer hex and turn it,
but you can also grip the inner square and turn it
with the same feel as standard nipples
without stripping it, so
when there's a reason not to peel off the rim tape,
I adjust by gripping the inner side.
The temporary center was shifted to the left.
There was also some wobble, so there might be a slightly better phase if I looked for it.
I trued the wobble by focusing on tightening the non-freewheel side,
which has the greater spoke tension.
Naturally, the amount of center shift increased.
From a state where there was no radial or lateral wobble,
but the center was shifted significantly toward the non-freewheel side,
I centered it by tightening the freewheel side.
In other words, every nipple was tightened to some degree compared to before.
This wasn't about just cranking everything tight—
I just brought the slack back up to around the upper limit of proper hanging tension.
And then I laced it up.