I received the front and rear wheels of a Bora WTO45 from a customer.
These wheels have a history of use in racing,
and the customer requested a CULT conversion and inspection.
The rim is 2WAY-FIT, so it's not IRC tubeless tires...
but rather Aspite (Japanese tire brand) tubed tires.
I removed the USB bearing cone.
↑I put the removed USB bearing into the box that originally contained the CULT bearing,
but since current models have both steel balls and USB with silver ball races,
it's hard to tell CULT and USB apart,
so I need to keep them clearly separated during work
to avoid any accidental mix-up.
The cone is one thing, but the adjustable cup has an easy way to tell them apart.
I didn't check the original temporary centering,
but after the CULT conversion and reassembling the hub,
the rim was shifted to the left side.
Also, there was quite a bit of lateral wobble consistent with its history of use.
I did lateral truing and centering.
Now for the rear wheel.
This is an image with the USB bearing cone removed.
After the CULT conversion, the temporary centering showed
the rim shifted toward the anti-freewheel side,
but there's an odd radial wobble and long-term use shifts it,
yet it's shifted in the opposite direction by a large amount,
so I suspect some sloppy truing was done.
Then I found one spoke that was twisted,
so it's no longer just suspicion.
The twisted section is close to the nipple.
I loosened the nipple completely and replaced the spoke
while maintaining the twist angle.
I was able to remove it while preserving the twist,
but for me, creating a twist is harder than avoiding one,
so I'd like someone to teach me how they managed to twist it.
I removed the twisted spoke.
↑This is a spoke turning prevention tool compatible with Bora WTO spokes,
and the spoke is twisted this much around the threaded area of the tool.
↑The spoke at the bottom of the image is a new replacement,
and the twist in the upper spoke begins around the right side of this image,
and near the threaded section it looks like this.
I replaced the spoke and did lateral and radial truing.
The rim shifting toward the anti-freewheel side happens because
the additional tightening on the anti-freewheel side requires less effort and is easier than on the freewheel side,
and the radial wobble too—taking the lazy approach of truing the lateral wobble "only"
with nipples that turn relatively smoothly (without twisting)—
shows the kind of work steps that are obvious even in retrospect.
Although there's no color coding, those who know will see it
like restoring a Rubik's cube, where most of the radial truing steps
were just undoing the turns made during the sloppy truing.
For the centering adjustment of the anti-freewheel shift, rather than using
a loosening tendency on the anti-freewheel side,
I used a tightening tendency on the freewheel side,
so the spoke tension is slightly higher compared to before the sloppy truing.
These wheels have a history of use in racing,
and the customer requested a CULT conversion and inspection.
The rim is 2WAY-FIT, so it's not IRC tubeless tires...
but rather Aspite (Japanese tire brand) tubed tires.
I removed the USB bearing cone.
↑I put the removed USB bearing into the box that originally contained the CULT bearing,
but since current models have both steel balls and USB with silver ball races,
it's hard to tell CULT and USB apart,
so I need to keep them clearly separated during work
to avoid any accidental mix-up.
The cone is one thing, but the adjustable cup has an easy way to tell them apart.
I didn't check the original temporary centering,
but after the CULT conversion and reassembling the hub,
the rim was shifted to the left side.
Also, there was quite a bit of lateral wobble consistent with its history of use.
I did lateral truing and centering.
Now for the rear wheel.
This is an image with the USB bearing cone removed.
After the CULT conversion, the temporary centering showed
the rim shifted toward the anti-freewheel side,
but there's an odd radial wobble and long-term use shifts it,
yet it's shifted in the opposite direction by a large amount,
so I suspect some sloppy truing was done.
Then I found one spoke that was twisted,
so it's no longer just suspicion.
The twisted section is close to the nipple.
I loosened the nipple completely and replaced the spoke
while maintaining the twist angle.
I was able to remove it while preserving the twist,
but for me, creating a twist is harder than avoiding one,
so I'd like someone to teach me how they managed to twist it.
I removed the twisted spoke.
↑This is a spoke turning prevention tool compatible with Bora WTO spokes,
and the spoke is twisted this much around the threaded area of the tool.
↑The spoke at the bottom of the image is a new replacement,
and the twist in the upper spoke begins around the right side of this image,
and near the threaded section it looks like this.
I replaced the spoke and did lateral and radial truing.
The rim shifting toward the anti-freewheel side happens because
the additional tightening on the anti-freewheel side requires less effort and is easier than on the freewheel side,
and the radial wobble too—taking the lazy approach of truing the lateral wobble "only"
with nipples that turn relatively smoothly (without twisting)—
shows the kind of work steps that are obvious even in retrospect.
Although there's no color coding, those who know will see it
like restoring a Rubik's cube, where most of the radial truing steps
were just undoing the turns made during the sloppy truing.
For the centering adjustment of the anti-freewheel shift, rather than using
a loosening tendency on the anti-freewheel side,
I used a tightening tendency on the freewheel side,
so the spoke tension is slightly higher compared to before the sloppy truing.