This is a follow-up to my previous post, but
although this rim is a double-wall rim,
the brake zone takes up a larger proportion
of the rim sidewall height compared to other sections,
and even though it's a DW rim,
if you were to remove the bead hook,
it would have the structure of quite a low-profile tubular rim.
What I'm getting at is
that the surface where you apply (tape type)
or tension (band type) rim tape is very close
to the end face of the nipples.
↑This is the valve hole, but on the outer circumference of the rim
there's a straight ridge line offset from the center.
You can see a similar line on Mavic aluminum rims too,
but I'm not trying to suggest anything
like the rim manufacturer being the same.
In fact, it's almost certainly not related.
There's radial runout in the holes on the outer side of the rim,
and this ridge line serves as a guide
making the radial runout easier to see.
Following the rim holes in order from the valve hole...
Right-side runout
Left-side runout
Right-side runout
Left-side runout
is how it goes.
As for spoke length, the spoke ends are flush with the nipple end face
or just barely protruding.
With a band type and soft rim tape compressed to the limit,
the rim tape would contact the nipple,
and since the upper and lower walls are so close together,
if the spoke protruded clearly several threads beyond the nipple,
it could cause a puncture.
This much is safe, and I'm planning to use
double-layer tape-type rim tape anyway,
so there's no problem.
The decimal portion under 1mm in the spoke length calculation
was 0.94mm, and I chose the length by rounding that up.
For example (not the actual length),
when the calculation came to 299.94mm,
I selected a 300mm spoke and cut it like that.
That said, at our shop with 14-gauge plain spokes,
we cut Champion spokes at 315mm in both silver and black,
so we can cut to any length in 0.5mm increments,
and could make lengths like 299.5mm if needed.
Personally, I normally consider
the spoke end flush with the nipple end face to be appropriate,
but if the difference is one thread long or short,
I think the longer one is better (or at least less bad).
On Campagnolo complete wheels, I've seen spokes
protruding three or more threads beyond the nipple,
but that's because the threaded section of the spoke is longer than standard parts,
so despite appearances, it's not a calculation error.
On Shimano complete wheels too, you sometimes see
three or more threads of spoke protruding beyond the nipple,
and while I thought the thread length must be special,
it turns out to be nearly the same as standard spokes (not even one extra thread,
at most half a thread longer),
and they use the shortcut of making both sides the same length on disc brake front wheels,
and with the short left side being appropriate and the long right side protruding, I'd expect,
but instead both are long, and particularly the right side is error-level,
which happens sometimes.
On the rear wheel of the WH-R8170
with 2:1 lacing and significantly different spoke lengths between sides
(286mm and 267mm),
both have excessive protrusion beyond the nipple
and the thread length is the same as standard spokes
—for details on this (→see here).
On standard nipples and spokes,
if the spoke end face is flush with the nipple slot,
I wouldn't call that "short," just giving my opinion.
But if it's two threads or more shorter than that,
I think that's cutting corners or a calculation error.
If you're assembling wheels mostly automatically on a wheel-building machine,
a spoke length that's flush with the nipple slot is convenient,
so wheels on budget cross-bikes and casual MTBs
tend to have shorter spokes.
With this rim, I might have been better off
applying a 1mm correction adjustment as if it were a single-wall rim.
Similar rims exist from WTB and others too (→see here).
If all of them protruded by one thread,
I would have cut the spokes again.
In that case, I'd notice before finishing the build.
The hub has no dishing tool hole, which is the same
as on rim brake front wheels
and both-sided fixed-gear rear hubs,
but when doing final centering,
while usually you adjust with a tightening tendency,
I adjusted with a loosening tendency.
With one side of the wheel, all nipple threads
recessed by about 1/4 revolution.
although this rim is a double-wall rim,
the brake zone takes up a larger proportion
of the rim sidewall height compared to other sections,
and even though it's a DW rim,
if you were to remove the bead hook,
it would have the structure of quite a low-profile tubular rim.
What I'm getting at is
that the surface where you apply (tape type)
or tension (band type) rim tape is very close
to the end face of the nipples.
↑This is the valve hole, but on the outer circumference of the rim
there's a straight ridge line offset from the center.
You can see a similar line on Mavic aluminum rims too,
but I'm not trying to suggest anything
like the rim manufacturer being the same.
In fact, it's almost certainly not related.
There's radial runout in the holes on the outer side of the rim,
and this ridge line serves as a guide
making the radial runout easier to see.
Following the rim holes in order from the valve hole...
Right-side runout
Left-side runout
Right-side runout
Left-side runout
is how it goes.
As for spoke length, the spoke ends are flush with the nipple end face
or just barely protruding.
With a band type and soft rim tape compressed to the limit,
the rim tape would contact the nipple,
and since the upper and lower walls are so close together,
if the spoke protruded clearly several threads beyond the nipple,
it could cause a puncture.
This much is safe, and I'm planning to use
double-layer tape-type rim tape anyway,
so there's no problem.
The decimal portion under 1mm in the spoke length calculation
was 0.94mm, and I chose the length by rounding that up.
For example (not the actual length),
when the calculation came to 299.94mm,
I selected a 300mm spoke and cut it like that.
That said, at our shop with 14-gauge plain spokes,
we cut Champion spokes at 315mm in both silver and black,
so we can cut to any length in 0.5mm increments,
and could make lengths like 299.5mm if needed.
Personally, I normally consider
the spoke end flush with the nipple end face to be appropriate,
but if the difference is one thread long or short,
I think the longer one is better (or at least less bad).
On Campagnolo complete wheels, I've seen spokes
protruding three or more threads beyond the nipple,
but that's because the threaded section of the spoke is longer than standard parts,
so despite appearances, it's not a calculation error.
On Shimano complete wheels too, you sometimes see
three or more threads of spoke protruding beyond the nipple,
and while I thought the thread length must be special,
it turns out to be nearly the same as standard spokes (not even one extra thread,
at most half a thread longer),
and they use the shortcut of making both sides the same length on disc brake front wheels,
and with the short left side being appropriate and the long right side protruding, I'd expect,
but instead both are long, and particularly the right side is error-level,
which happens sometimes.
On the rear wheel of the WH-R8170
with 2:1 lacing and significantly different spoke lengths between sides
(286mm and 267mm),
both have excessive protrusion beyond the nipple
and the thread length is the same as standard spokes
—for details on this (→see here).
On standard nipples and spokes,
if the spoke end face is flush with the nipple slot,
I wouldn't call that "short," just giving my opinion.
But if it's two threads or more shorter than that,
I think that's cutting corners or a calculation error.
If you're assembling wheels mostly automatically on a wheel-building machine,
a spoke length that's flush with the nipple slot is convenient,
so wheels on budget cross-bikes and casual MTBs
tend to have shorter spokes.
With this rim, I might have been better off
applying a 1mm correction adjustment as if it were a single-wall rim.
Similar rims exist from WTB and others too (→see here).
If all of them protruded by one thread,
I would have cut the spokes again.
In that case, I'd notice before finishing the build.
The hub has no dishing tool hole, which is the same
as on rim brake front wheels
and both-sided fixed-gear rear hubs,
but when doing final centering,
while usually you adjust with a tightening tendency,
I adjusted with a loosening tendency.
With one side of the wheel, all nipple threads
recessed by about 1/4 revolution.