I received the front and rear wheels from a customer's Racing 1 2WAY-FIT bike.
The customer wanted both wheels to have their rims swapped to clincher rims instead of 2WAY-FIT rims,
but since the brake zones weren't worn,
the rims weren't bent,
and the bead hooks weren't deformed from buckling,
I advised the customer that considering cost and turnaround time, it would be quite wasteful.
So we ended up just doing a hub overhaul
and runout inspection.
The freebody is for Shimano 10S,
but the customer wanted it changed to Shimano 11S.
They preferred a steel freebody,
and while it's not impossible to source,
the price difference between aluminum and steel is only about 600 yen,
yet aluminum is far lighter,
so I recommended aluminum instead.
We went with a white-coated aluminum freebody.
It's true that on aluminum the sprockets will bite into the splines,
but even accounting for that, I can't recommend steel.
If the price difference were several thousand yen, that would be a different story.
Also, this original freebody has abnormally light coasting resistance.
The provisional center was spot-on.
But there is some fine runout, so if I look carefully
there's probably a phase where things are off by about the thickness of a sheet of paper.
Also, the right end nut was so loose it could be unscrewed by hand,
so after swapping the freebody,
the right end position may shift inward →
causing the rim to shift relatively to the right of the new wheel center.
The pawl lift spring on the freebody was deformed.
Because of this, all three pawls weren't engaging properly,
which is why the freebody had abnormally light coasting resistance.
↑In the image, the part rising from the spring hooks into the hole at the 12 o'clock position,
and from there the spring sits in the groove going clockwise.
I thought the third pawl wasn't engaging, but it turned out to be
the first pawl.
Since we're replacing the freebody itself, I'm not replacing this pawl lift spring.
It's only about a 200 yen part so I could have replaced it too
I overhauled the rear hub.
Same with the front hub — there's no pitting on either side,
and the black ball races have nice wear marks.
After the hub overhaul and freebody swap, the provisional center was spot-on again.
The image above also shows off how clean the holes in the left bearing cone locknut
and the hub axle threads are now.
From here, the center remained spot-on after truing too,
so I'd be posting similar images again,
so I'd like to skip ahead... but
I noticed the truing was one-sided over-tightening,
and sure enough, it shifted.
The wheel went from runout with perfect center
to no runout but center off.
From that state, I fine-tuned the spoke tension on the non-freewheel side
to get the center back.
Next up is the provisional center of the front wheel.
The rim is shifted to the left side (bearing cone locknut side).
I overhauled the front hub and
unlike the rear wheel, overall runout was minimal,
but there was a section with significant runout.
Since I'm looking at the provisional center,
I want to true in the direction that will reduce center error,
but the correction needed for the heavy runout section
was in the opposite direction,
so the lateral truing barely changed the center error direction and magnitude—
that's what the image above shows.
From there, I centered the wheel.
The customer wanted both wheels to have their rims swapped to clincher rims instead of 2WAY-FIT rims,
but since the brake zones weren't worn,
the rims weren't bent,
and the bead hooks weren't deformed from buckling,
I advised the customer that considering cost and turnaround time, it would be quite wasteful.
So we ended up just doing a hub overhaul
and runout inspection.
The freebody is for Shimano 10S,
but the customer wanted it changed to Shimano 11S.
They preferred a steel freebody,
and while it's not impossible to source,
the price difference between aluminum and steel is only about 600 yen,
yet aluminum is far lighter,
so I recommended aluminum instead.
We went with a white-coated aluminum freebody.
It's true that on aluminum the sprockets will bite into the splines,
but even accounting for that, I can't recommend steel.
If the price difference were several thousand yen, that would be a different story.
Also, this original freebody has abnormally light coasting resistance.
The provisional center was spot-on.
But there is some fine runout, so if I look carefully
there's probably a phase where things are off by about the thickness of a sheet of paper.
Also, the right end nut was so loose it could be unscrewed by hand,
so after swapping the freebody,
the right end position may shift inward →
causing the rim to shift relatively to the right of the new wheel center.
The pawl lift spring on the freebody was deformed.
Because of this, all three pawls weren't engaging properly,
which is why the freebody had abnormally light coasting resistance.
↑In the image, the part rising from the spring hooks into the hole at the 12 o'clock position,
and from there the spring sits in the groove going clockwise.
I thought the third pawl wasn't engaging, but it turned out to be
the first pawl.
Since we're replacing the freebody itself, I'm not replacing this pawl lift spring.
I overhauled the rear hub.
Same with the front hub — there's no pitting on either side,
and the black ball races have nice wear marks.
After the hub overhaul and freebody swap, the provisional center was spot-on again.
The image above also shows off how clean the holes in the left bearing cone locknut
and the hub axle threads are now.
From here, the center remained spot-on after truing too,
so I'd be posting similar images again,
so I'd like to skip ahead... but
I noticed the truing was one-sided over-tightening,
and sure enough, it shifted.
The wheel went from runout with perfect center
to no runout but center off.
From that state, I fine-tuned the spoke tension on the non-freewheel side
to get the center back.
Next up is the provisional center of the front wheel.
The rim is shifted to the left side (bearing cone locknut side).
I overhauled the front hub and
unlike the rear wheel, overall runout was minimal,
but there was a section with significant runout.
Since I'm looking at the provisional center,
I want to true in the direction that will reduce center error,
but the correction needed for the heavy runout section
was in the opposite direction,
so the lateral truing barely changed the center error direction and magnitude—
that's what the image above shows.
From there, I centered the wheel.