I received a Shamal Ultra rear wheel from a customer.

I've repaired this wheel many times before, but

this time a spoke has broken at the head.
It's extremely rare for this type of spoke to break at the neck.

Anyway, the hub rotation is abnormally rough.

The bearings are USB type, and while the ceramic balls appear clear at first glance,
when compared to new ones they were slightly cloudy, so I replaced them.
This time I replaced all the bearings in both the hub shell and the freebody.

I removed the hub axle.

There's secondary rust at the bearing position on the outside of the freebody.

In the past, at our shop, among the left and right cone races and adjusting cones,
only the left-side cone of the hub shell was replaced with a silver cone that's resistant to pitting,
but that silver cone has pitted.

This area is better, but

there's pitting on the opposite side.

I cleaned the hub shell and pressed in new silver cones on both sides.

The bearing at the back of the freebody was fine enough to replace or not replace,
but it's an older single-seal version, and the rotation wasn't completely smooth,
so

I replaced it with the current dual-seal version.

↑Replaced hub parts

For the ceramic balls, I have a large stock of new bearings for the newer front hub model at our shop that has 2 fewer balls than this rear wheel,
so I extracted only the ceramic balls from those and installed them in the cleaned retainer ring.
By doing this, I can offer them at a slightly lower price, and all parts are brand new.


I cleaned all hub parts except the bearings, assembled the hub, and then replaced the spoke.
I did the hub first because replacing bearing parts can sometimes throw off the wheel center by about the thickness of a sheet of paper.

↑The replaced spoke... which one is it?
There are spokes from Shamal Ultra and Racing Zero wheels that I've repaired recently but haven't posted about mixed in here.

The top 4 spokes in the image still have their spoke heads,
and the spoke below that one broke in the middle, not at the neck,
so it's the spoke at the very bottom of the image.

This is a repost of the second image in this article, but

the location of the paint damage matches,
so there's no doubt.

I've repaired this wheel many times before, but

this time a spoke has broken at the head.
It's extremely rare for this type of spoke to break at the neck.

Anyway, the hub rotation is abnormally rough.

The bearings are USB type, and while the ceramic balls appear clear at first glance,
when compared to new ones they were slightly cloudy, so I replaced them.
This time I replaced all the bearings in both the hub shell and the freebody.

I removed the hub axle.

There's secondary rust at the bearing position on the outside of the freebody.

In the past, at our shop, among the left and right cone races and adjusting cones,
only the left-side cone of the hub shell was replaced with a silver cone that's resistant to pitting,
but that silver cone has pitted.

This area is better, but

there's pitting on the opposite side.

I cleaned the hub shell and pressed in new silver cones on both sides.

The bearing at the back of the freebody was fine enough to replace or not replace,
but it's an older single-seal version, and the rotation wasn't completely smooth,
so

I replaced it with the current dual-seal version.

↑Replaced hub parts

For the ceramic balls, I have a large stock of new bearings for the newer front hub model at our shop that has 2 fewer balls than this rear wheel,
so I extracted only the ceramic balls from those and installed them in the cleaned retainer ring.
By doing this, I can offer them at a slightly lower price, and all parts are brand new.


I cleaned all hub parts except the bearings, assembled the hub, and then replaced the spoke.
I did the hub first because replacing bearing parts can sometimes throw off the wheel center by about the thickness of a sheet of paper.

↑The replaced spoke... which one is it?
There are spokes from Shamal Ultra and Racing Zero wheels that I've repaired recently but haven't posted about mixed in here.

The top 4 spokes in the image still have their spoke heads,
and the spoke below that one broke in the middle, not at the neck,
so it's the spoke at the very bottom of the image.

This is a repost of the second image in this article, but

the location of the paint damage matches,
so there's no doubt.