Another wheel day (and so on...).
A customer brought in a wheel
built with a Bontrager aluminum rim.
It's built with paired spokes,
but apparently the original hub flange cracked, so
it's been rebuilt with a White Industries
T11 front hub.
The hub is naturally
designed to be built with evenly-spaced rim holes,
so phase shift occurs.
In this case, looking at it from my perspective, the flange holes on the near side
appear to be twisted counterclockwise,
and the far side flange holes appear to be twisted clockwise.
Since this is 0-cross lacing, it's still relatively mild, but
with tangential lacing, the spoke lengths differ between
the porcupine direction and the anti-porcupine direction.
I'm calling it 0-cross rather than radial lacing because
the spoke path deviates from a radial line from the hub center.
With 20 holes, each flange has an even number of spokes,
so in that case spokes from opposite rim holes would
appear in a straight line when viewed from the side,
but as you can see, this wheel's don't line up.
Even if you build an 18-hole front rim on a 36-hole hub by skipping holes,
you end up with this kind of situation.
I'm not really concerned about this itself, but
the spoke length is too short.
The spokes are DT Champion #14 (2.0mm) plain,
and the nipples are cheap ones with sharp tips on the inner side
that I couldn't quite figure out.
The spoke threads aren't
rolled with a spoke cutter,
so they weren't cut too short.
When building wheels, there's no way I wouldn't notice
that the spokes are short...
In the first place, this came in for
inspection along with the rear wheel,
and since it had a stretch-band style rim tape,
if it had been built with 14mm-length nipples instead of
the 12mm-length ones in the photo above,
at this length the nipples would cover the spoke threads,
so I might not have noticed the abnormal spoke length.
So anyway,
I had to rebuild with properly-sized spokes.
This rim is an inside-up rim.
The center in the image above is the valve hole.
↑Left is the valve hole, right is the rim holes
With an "eyeleted on one side only" rim that has eyelets only on the inner side,
using generic nipples,
there's a large spherical-joint-like wobble that
absorbs spoke orientation,
so it's possible to mistakenly build it as an outside-up rim.
By the way, when it came in,
it had been built as an inside-up rim.
All built.
T11 hub, 20 hole, black CX Sprint inside-up 0-cross, with
black aluminum nipples.
The rear wheel, its counterpart, came stock as-is
with black spokes and black nipples,
so I matched that.
A customer brought in a wheel
built with a Bontrager aluminum rim.
It's built with paired spokes,
but apparently the original hub flange cracked, so
it's been rebuilt with a White Industries
T11 front hub.
The hub is naturally
designed to be built with evenly-spaced rim holes,
so phase shift occurs.
In this case, looking at it from my perspective, the flange holes on the near side
appear to be twisted counterclockwise,
and the far side flange holes appear to be twisted clockwise.
Since this is 0-cross lacing, it's still relatively mild, but
with tangential lacing, the spoke lengths differ between
the porcupine direction and the anti-porcupine direction.
I'm calling it 0-cross rather than radial lacing because
the spoke path deviates from a radial line from the hub center.
With 20 holes, each flange has an even number of spokes,
so in that case spokes from opposite rim holes would
appear in a straight line when viewed from the side,
but as you can see, this wheel's don't line up.
Even if you build an 18-hole front rim on a 36-hole hub by skipping holes,
you end up with this kind of situation.
I'm not really concerned about this itself, but
the spoke length is too short.
The spokes are DT Champion #14 (2.0mm) plain,
and the nipples are cheap ones with sharp tips on the inner side
that I couldn't quite figure out.
The spoke threads aren't
rolled with a spoke cutter,
so they weren't cut too short.
When building wheels, there's no way I wouldn't notice
that the spokes are short...
In the first place, this came in for
inspection along with the rear wheel,
and since it had a stretch-band style rim tape,
if it had been built with 14mm-length nipples instead of
the 12mm-length ones in the photo above,
at this length the nipples would cover the spoke threads,
so I might not have noticed the abnormal spoke length.
So anyway,
I had to rebuild with properly-sized spokes.
This rim is an inside-up rim.
The center in the image above is the valve hole.
↑Left is the valve hole, right is the rim holes
With an "eyeleted on one side only" rim that has eyelets only on the inner side,
using generic nipples,
there's a large spherical-joint-like wobble that
absorbs spoke orientation,
so it's possible to mistakenly build it as an outside-up rim.
By the way, when it came in,
it had been built as an inside-up rim.
All built.
T11 hub, 20 hole, black CX Sprint inside-up 0-cross, with
black aluminum nipples.
The rear wheel, its counterpart, came stock as-is
with black spokes and black nipples,
so I matched that.