I received a Cosmic SLR45 Disc from a customer (supposedly).
The outermost finish uses a cosmetic carbon that's
Mavic's UD² finish,
so it's a 2022 or later model, but the exact specs are unclear.
Back in the day, the SLR45 had
what was called a Japan-exclusive model, which was just
a cheap way for the manufacturer to differentiate—
some had white or yellow Mavic stickers applied.
This wheel has a gray version of that sticker instead.
With this thickness, it definitely exceeds
the minimum dimensional threshold for detecting
wheel centerline deviation,
so from a work standpoint, it's just in the way.
The front wheel had almost no centerline deviation,
but the rear wheel, as usual, was shifted significantly to the left.
Got the center dialed in.
The rear wheel originally came with a Shimano freehub body,
but I swapped it for a SRAM XDR freehub body
that the customer (supposedly) brought in, before truing it.
The image at the start also shows it after the freehub swap.
The image above shows the removed Shimano freehub body
viewed from the side facing the hub shell.
You can see the specialized white grease applied to
the ratchet surface.
The customer (supposedly) was aware that this thing has
a ridiculous maintenance interval of every 1000 km (※1),
and yet still acquired this wheel (※2).
※1 The original announcement claimed 5000 km,
which is even more ridiculous.
It's like a car claiming 20 km/liter fuel economy
actually getting 4 km/liter.
※2 I'm using "acquired" rather than "bought"
for reasons I can't explain
On the SRAM freehub body,
the seal on the outer face of the rear bearing
is a metal seal.
Some Mavic wheels' hub shell bearings and
lower-end Fulcrum models
also have asymmetric bearings with one rubber seal and one metal seal,
but in those cases the metal seal is positioned
facing the inside of the freehub body or hub shell.
Metal seals offer barely any better water protection
than open-type (no seal) designs.
As for the bearing in the image—I might not be looking carefully enough—
it could have metal seals on both sides.
If so, the orientation wouldn't be wrong.
The Instant Drive 360 has poor sealing between
the hub shell and freehub body,
and water easily gets into the ratchet ring area.
The parts on the hub shell side, beyond the ratchet ring,
rust badly and drip rusty liquid
onto the bearings inside the freehub body,
destroying the bearing internals. I've seen this happen quite a few times.
The outermost finish uses a cosmetic carbon that's
Mavic's UD² finish,
so it's a 2022 or later model, but the exact specs are unclear.
Back in the day, the SLR45 had
what was called a Japan-exclusive model, which was just
a cheap way for the manufacturer to differentiate—
some had white or yellow Mavic stickers applied.
This wheel has a gray version of that sticker instead.
With this thickness, it definitely exceeds
the minimum dimensional threshold for detecting
wheel centerline deviation,
so from a work standpoint, it's just in the way.
The front wheel had almost no centerline deviation,
but the rear wheel, as usual, was shifted significantly to the left.
Got the center dialed in.
The rear wheel originally came with a Shimano freehub body,
but I swapped it for a SRAM XDR freehub body
that the customer (supposedly) brought in, before truing it.
The image at the start also shows it after the freehub swap.
The image above shows the removed Shimano freehub body
viewed from the side facing the hub shell.
You can see the specialized white grease applied to
the ratchet surface.
The customer (supposedly) was aware that this thing has
a ridiculous maintenance interval of every 1000 km (※1),
and yet still acquired this wheel (※2).
※1 The original announcement claimed 5000 km,
which is even more ridiculous.
It's like a car claiming 20 km/liter fuel economy
actually getting 4 km/liter.
※2 I'm using "acquired" rather than "bought"
for reasons I can't explain
On the SRAM freehub body,
the seal on the outer face of the rear bearing
is a metal seal.
Some Mavic wheels' hub shell bearings and
lower-end Fulcrum models
also have asymmetric bearings with one rubber seal and one metal seal,
but in those cases the metal seal is positioned
facing the inside of the freehub body or hub shell.
Metal seals offer barely any better water protection
than open-type (no seal) designs.
As for the bearing in the image—I might not be looking carefully enough—
it could have metal seals on both sides.
If so, the orientation wouldn't be wrong.
The Instant Drive 360 has poor sealing between
the hub shell and freehub body,
and water easily gets into the ratchet ring area.
The parts on the hub shell side, beyond the ratchet ring,
rust badly and drip rusty liquid
onto the bearings inside the freehub body,
destroying the bearing internals. I've seen this happen quite a few times.