Another day, another wheel (and so on).
I'm rebuilding the rear wheel to match
the front wheel of the Alpinist CLX II that I rebuilt the other day.
This marks the end of my rough Roval rebuild rush for now.
Though there's still another Roval somewhere in the shop.
The hub flange holes have the special shape for DT's (Deutsche Technik) die-cut, flattened-head spokes,
but I found that some spoke heads were so over-flattened they rattled loosely in the hub flange,
while others weren't flattened enough and were digging into the flange.
Even though the rim tape edge looked perfectly flat with no lifting,
sealant had somehow gotten through.
I left one pair of spokes on each side in the final cross pattern without loosening any nipples.
I noticed something while disassembling:
↑Non-drive side
↑Drive side
↑Non-drive side
↑Drive side
The non-drive side spokes are right at the nipple slot flush line, maybe plus one thread length,
but the drive side is way too short.
So I'm reusing the spokes from the high spoke count side, which is the drive side.
A complete spoke replacement would be expensive,
and since it seems all the Alpinist CLX II rear wheels are like this anyway, I'm going with the mysterious logic that it's OK
and rebuilding as-is this time.
Unlike the previous build, I haven't woven the final cross in tangent pattern on either side.
The drive side I did weave because I was planning to braze it,
but the non-drive side has such strong directional constraints on the hub flange holes that
even though I wove it in the picture above,
the spokes don't actually reach rim holes, so the wheel won't build.
In the picture above, the two flange holes toward the front in the rotation direction on the right are close together,
but the two holes on the back in the rotation direction on the left are quite far apart.
Rebuilt it.
I made the low spoke count side black CX Sprint without weaving,
and wove the high spoke count side and brazed it.
I'm rebuilding the rear wheel to match
the front wheel of the Alpinist CLX II that I rebuilt the other day.
This marks the end of my rough Roval rebuild rush for now.
The hub flange holes have the special shape for DT's (Deutsche Technik) die-cut, flattened-head spokes,
but I found that some spoke heads were so over-flattened they rattled loosely in the hub flange,
while others weren't flattened enough and were digging into the flange.
Even though the rim tape edge looked perfectly flat with no lifting,
sealant had somehow gotten through.
I left one pair of spokes on each side in the final cross pattern without loosening any nipples.
I noticed something while disassembling:
↑Non-drive side
↑Drive side
↑Non-drive side
↑Drive side
The non-drive side spokes are right at the nipple slot flush line, maybe plus one thread length,
but the drive side is way too short.
So I'm reusing the spokes from the high spoke count side, which is the drive side.
A complete spoke replacement would be expensive,
and since it seems all the Alpinist CLX II rear wheels are like this anyway, I'm going with the mysterious logic that it's OK
and rebuilding as-is this time.
Unlike the previous build, I haven't woven the final cross in tangent pattern on either side.
The drive side I did weave because I was planning to braze it,
but the non-drive side has such strong directional constraints on the hub flange holes that
even though I wove it in the picture above,
the spokes don't actually reach rim holes, so the wheel won't build.
In the picture above, the two flange holes toward the front in the rotation direction on the right are close together,
but the two holes on the back in the rotation direction on the left are quite far apart.
Rebuilt it.
I made the low spoke count side black CX Sprint without weaving,
and wove the high spoke count side and brazed it.