I received a front wheel from a customer—a Racing Zero Competizione.
This is what we call a new shaft catastrophic failure case.
According to someone I know at a parts distributor who's the most knowledgeable about Campagnolo in Japan,
apparently some other shop called them asking,
"So this is one of those new shaft catastrophic failure cases, but do you have the parts needed for repair in stock?"
Pretty convenient, right? The Nomu Lab terminology.
For example, once the word "ヌポーク" (nu-spoke) gets burned into your brain,
you don't want to keep saying "spoke that goes from the inside to the outside of the hub flange" every time, right?
↑Right end hollow bolt is missing
The flat wrench-grip surface for the 14mm wrench is stripped.
↑The opposite side
The lock bolt for the left side bearing preload adjustment nut is missing.
Actually it was included separately,
but I hadn't noticed it at this point.
Successfully recovered the left end hollow bolt!
It was screwed into the hub axle at a seized level, but I managed to get it out.
The customer already has a spare hub axle,
which I'm keeping along with the wheel,
but if this left end had come off easily,
I could extract the hub axle from the hub body,
so there'd be no need to send the wheel to my shop.
If I couldn't loosen the left end myself,
I'd need to resort to the heavy-handed approach of grinding down with a large-diameter drill bit
until the flange on the left end comes off.
These end hollow bolts are the same part on both sides
and are sold individually, but they cost over 3,000 yen,
so it's preferable to recover them without destruction.
The right side of the hub axle is clamped hard in a vise through a jig,
so it broke like this.
It was intentional,
but this is what a new shaft catastrophic failure state looks like.
The customer also provided me with a spare hub axle,
and said it was okay to destroy this current hub axle since the 14mm wrench grip was already stripped,
so that's how I handled it.
If I attach the hollow end bolt to the original right-handed hole
and grip it by the end flange to secure it,
the left end won't come off by co-rotation (the right end will loosen first).
↑These are from my shop's inventory—
the left one in the image is what Campagnolo calls a Bora hub axle,
and the right one is a Shamal Ultra hub axle.
↑The dimension from the end to the taper section where the bearing cup fits is different.
↑This is the bearing preload adjustment slotted nut + lock bolt used on Shamal Ultra and others,
↑and this is the equivalent part on Bora and others.
The bolt used here is a special type with a rounded shank,
and there's no individual bolt sale available.
If you break or lose it,
you have to replace the entire assembly.
The lock bolt was included.
It said "included" in the letter,
so I should've read it more carefully, you idiot.
I replaced it with a new hub axle,
hand-tightened the bearing preload nut,
and eliminated the play.
Timeline-wise, I still hadn't noticed the lock bolt was included,
so there's no bolt attached, but there was slight runout and lateral offset.
I installed the lock bolt,
trued the wheel, and centered it.
On the new hub axle,
the right end has almost adhesive-like treatment applied,
and the left end has grease applied to the threads,
so when I apply the 5mm hex key to both ends,
the left end will loosen first.
The reason the right end would loosen first on the older design
was the problem causing new shaft catastrophic failures.
With the previous generation hub axles,
the right end was integral with the hub axle,
but with the new shaft design it became a separate part,
which created the possibility of the right end loosening first.
This is what we call a new shaft catastrophic failure case.
According to someone I know at a parts distributor who's the most knowledgeable about Campagnolo in Japan,
apparently some other shop called them asking,
"So this is one of those new shaft catastrophic failure cases, but do you have the parts needed for repair in stock?"
Pretty convenient, right? The Nomu Lab terminology.
For example, once the word "ヌポーク" (nu-spoke) gets burned into your brain,
you don't want to keep saying "spoke that goes from the inside to the outside of the hub flange" every time, right?
↑Right end hollow bolt is missing
The flat wrench-grip surface for the 14mm wrench is stripped.
↑The opposite side
The lock bolt for the left side bearing preload adjustment nut is missing.
Actually it was included separately,
but I hadn't noticed it at this point.
Successfully recovered the left end hollow bolt!
It was screwed into the hub axle at a seized level, but I managed to get it out.
The customer already has a spare hub axle,
which I'm keeping along with the wheel,
but if this left end had come off easily,
I could extract the hub axle from the hub body,
so there'd be no need to send the wheel to my shop.
If I couldn't loosen the left end myself,
I'd need to resort to the heavy-handed approach of grinding down with a large-diameter drill bit
until the flange on the left end comes off.
These end hollow bolts are the same part on both sides
and are sold individually, but they cost over 3,000 yen,
so it's preferable to recover them without destruction.
The right side of the hub axle is clamped hard in a vise through a jig,
so it broke like this.
It was intentional,
but this is what a new shaft catastrophic failure state looks like.
The customer also provided me with a spare hub axle,
and said it was okay to destroy this current hub axle since the 14mm wrench grip was already stripped,
so that's how I handled it.
If I attach the hollow end bolt to the original right-handed hole
and grip it by the end flange to secure it,
the left end won't come off by co-rotation (the right end will loosen first).
↑These are from my shop's inventory—
the left one in the image is what Campagnolo calls a Bora hub axle,
and the right one is a Shamal Ultra hub axle.
↑The dimension from the end to the taper section where the bearing cup fits is different.
↑This is the bearing preload adjustment slotted nut + lock bolt used on Shamal Ultra and others,
↑and this is the equivalent part on Bora and others.
The bolt used here is a special type with a rounded shank,
and there's no individual bolt sale available.
If you break or lose it,
you have to replace the entire assembly.
The lock bolt was included.
It said "included" in the letter,
so I should've read it more carefully, you idiot.
I replaced it with a new hub axle,
hand-tightened the bearing preload nut,
and eliminated the play.
Timeline-wise, I still hadn't noticed the lock bolt was included,
so there's no bolt attached, but there was slight runout and lateral offset.
I installed the lock bolt,
trued the wheel, and centered it.
On the new hub axle,
the right end has almost adhesive-like treatment applied,
and the left end has grease applied to the threads,
so when I apply the 5mm hex key to both ends,
the left end will loosen first.
The reason the right end would loosen first on the older design
was the problem causing new shaft catastrophic failures.
With the previous generation hub axles,
the right end was integral with the hub axle,
but with the new shaft design it became a separate part,
which created the possibility of the right end loosening first.