I've taken in a front wheel from a Racing Zero Competizione from a customer.
This is what we call a new shaft catastrophic failure case.
I heard from someone at a parts distributor who knows Campagnolo better than anyone in Japan—apparently some other shop called up asking,
"So this is one of those new shaft catastrophic failure cases, but do you have the repair parts in stock?"
See? Convenient, right, our workshop terminology.
For example, once the word "inpoke" gets burned into your brain,
you get tired of saying "a spoke threaded from the inside to the outside of the hub flange"
every single time, right?
↑Right end hollow bolt is missing.
The 14mm wrench grip surface is stripped.
↑The opposite side
The locknut fixing bolt for the left-side bearing adjustment nut is missing.
Actually it was included separately in the box, but
I hadn't noticed it at this point.
I was able to retrieve the left end hollow bolt!
It was threaded into the hub axle at seizing strength, but
I managed to get it out.
The customer had already sourced a spare hub axle, and
they left it with me along with the wheel, but
if this left end had come off easily,
I could have extracted the axle from the hub body
and wouldn't have needed them to send the whole wheel in.
If I couldn't loosen the left end either,
I'd have needed to resort to the rough work of grinding away the flange with a large drill bit
until it separates.
These end hollow bolts are the same part on both sides and are sold individually,
but they run over ¥3,000 each, so
recovering them without destruction is preferable.
The right side of the hub axle was clamped hard in a vise through a jig,
so it broke like this.
That was intentional,
and this is what the "new shaft catastrophic failure" state looks like.
The customer gave me a spare hub axle too, and
said it was okay to destroy the current shaft since the 14mm wrench grip surface was already stripped,
so I handled it this way.
If I install the hollow end bolt in the original right-hand thread hole
and grip the end flange to lock it,
the left end won't come off by co-rotation (the right end will loosen first).
↑These are from our shop stock.
The one on the left in the image is what Campagnolo calls
a Bora hub axle,
and the one on the right is a Shamal Ultra hub axle.
↑The dimension from the end to where the cone piece fits
is different between the two.
↑This is the slotted bearing adjustment nut and fixing bolt used on Shamal Ultra and similar hubs,
↑and this is the corresponding part on Bora and similar hubs.
The bolt used here has a special shape with a rounded neck,
and it's not sold separately as a bolt-only item.
If you break it or lose it,
you have to replace the entire assembly.
The fixing bolt was included in the box.
The letter said "included" right there—
you should've read it properly, you blockhead.
I swapped in the new hub axle and
hand-tightened the bearing adjustment nut
to take up the play.
Chronologically, I hadn't noticed the included fixing bolt yet, so
the bolt wasn't installed,
but there was some slight runout and axial misalignment.
I installed the fixing bolt and
trued the wheel and centered it.
On the new hub axle,
the right end is treated almost like it's glued,
while the left end has grease applied to the threads, so
when both ends are engaged with 5mm Allen keys,
the left end loosens first.
The reason the right end loosens first in the catastrophic failure case is
that with the old axle design the right end was integral with the shaft,
but with the new design it's a separate piece, which created the possibility
that the right end could loosen first.
This is what we call a new shaft catastrophic failure case.
I heard from someone at a parts distributor who knows Campagnolo better than anyone in Japan—apparently some other shop called up asking,
"So this is one of those new shaft catastrophic failure cases, but do you have the repair parts in stock?"
See? Convenient, right, our workshop terminology.
For example, once the word "inpoke" gets burned into your brain,
you get tired of saying "a spoke threaded from the inside to the outside of the hub flange"
every single time, right?
↑Right end hollow bolt is missing.
The 14mm wrench grip surface is stripped.
↑The opposite side
The locknut fixing bolt for the left-side bearing adjustment nut is missing.
Actually it was included separately in the box, but
I hadn't noticed it at this point.
I was able to retrieve the left end hollow bolt!
It was threaded into the hub axle at seizing strength, but
I managed to get it out.
The customer had already sourced a spare hub axle, and
they left it with me along with the wheel, but
if this left end had come off easily,
I could have extracted the axle from the hub body
and wouldn't have needed them to send the whole wheel in.
If I couldn't loosen the left end either,
I'd have needed to resort to the rough work of grinding away the flange with a large drill bit
until it separates.
These end hollow bolts are the same part on both sides and are sold individually,
but they run over ¥3,000 each, so
recovering them without destruction is preferable.
The right side of the hub axle was clamped hard in a vise through a jig,
so it broke like this.
That was intentional,
and this is what the "new shaft catastrophic failure" state looks like.
The customer gave me a spare hub axle too, and
said it was okay to destroy the current shaft since the 14mm wrench grip surface was already stripped,
so I handled it this way.
If I install the hollow end bolt in the original right-hand thread hole
and grip the end flange to lock it,
the left end won't come off by co-rotation (the right end will loosen first).
↑These are from our shop stock.
The one on the left in the image is what Campagnolo calls
a Bora hub axle,
and the one on the right is a Shamal Ultra hub axle.
↑The dimension from the end to where the cone piece fits
is different between the two.
↑This is the slotted bearing adjustment nut and fixing bolt used on Shamal Ultra and similar hubs,
↑and this is the corresponding part on Bora and similar hubs.
The bolt used here has a special shape with a rounded neck,
and it's not sold separately as a bolt-only item.
If you break it or lose it,
you have to replace the entire assembly.
The fixing bolt was included in the box.
The letter said "included" right there—
you should've read it properly, you blockhead.
I swapped in the new hub axle and
hand-tightened the bearing adjustment nut
to take up the play.
Chronologically, I hadn't noticed the included fixing bolt yet, so
the bolt wasn't installed,
but there was some slight runout and axial misalignment.
I installed the fixing bolt and
trued the wheel and centered it.
On the new hub axle,
the right end is treated almost like it's glued,
while the left end has grease applied to the threads, so
when both ends are engaged with 5mm Allen keys,
the left end loosens first.
The reason the right end loosens first in the catastrophic failure case is
that with the old axle design the right end was integral with the shaft,
but with the new design it's a separate piece, which created the possibility
that the right end could loosen first.