Another wheel day (and so on).
From the customer bikes I have on hand,
I built up the rear wheel using the Q2 Quasar rim
—the one with the sticker on it.
Quanta hub, 20H all-black Champion JIS lacing
with red aluminum nipples.
20H is already unusual for a disc front hub,
but it's even rarer for a rear hub.
Looking from the right side, the perspective makes it hard to tell,
but from the left side you can see it's got reversed high-low flanges.
I had considered doing a tie-and-sew if the non-drive side was extremely loose,
but since the spoke length is quite short,
the spoke deformation on both sides is minimal,
so I decided tie-and-sew wasn't necessary.
There is a clear left-right difference in spoke tension meter readings.
A while back I built a wheel using a Mavic GL330 rim for a 24-inch tubular,
and a 700C tubular rim (traditionally called 28-inch)
with the same dimension to the inner circumference as that rim
corresponds to roughly a 60mm rim depth.
In other words, a 24-inch low-profile rim wheel and
a 700C 60mm-deep rim wheel have the same structural dimension
from hub to rim inner circumference.
I added a correction note to the front wheel article, but
this rim turned out to be an 18-inch WO rim, not a
20-inch HE rim.
With that small-diameter rim having 40mm of rim depth,
it's effectively considered a low-profile rim,
which gives it an inner diameter roughly equivalent to a 16-inch WO rim.
At that kind of rim inner diameter,
you typically shouldn't weave in the final crosses of tangent lacing,
or it becomes impossible to do so, but
on this one I wove in all final crosses on both wheels front and rear.
This wasn't so much accounting for the possibility of tie-and-sew—
I just felt it was the better approach.
From the customer bikes I have on hand,
I built up the rear wheel using the Q2 Quasar rim
—the one with the sticker on it.
Quanta hub, 20H all-black Champion JIS lacing
with red aluminum nipples.
20H is already unusual for a disc front hub,
but it's even rarer for a rear hub.
Looking from the right side, the perspective makes it hard to tell,
but from the left side you can see it's got reversed high-low flanges.
I had considered doing a tie-and-sew if the non-drive side was extremely loose,
but since the spoke length is quite short,
the spoke deformation on both sides is minimal,
so I decided tie-and-sew wasn't necessary.
There is a clear left-right difference in spoke tension meter readings.
A while back I built a wheel using a Mavic GL330 rim for a 24-inch tubular,
and a 700C tubular rim (traditionally called 28-inch)
with the same dimension to the inner circumference as that rim
corresponds to roughly a 60mm rim depth.
In other words, a 24-inch low-profile rim wheel and
a 700C 60mm-deep rim wheel have the same structural dimension
from hub to rim inner circumference.
I added a correction note to the front wheel article, but
this rim turned out to be an 18-inch WO rim, not a
20-inch HE rim.
With that small-diameter rim having 40mm of rim depth,
it's effectively considered a low-profile rim,
which gives it an inner diameter roughly equivalent to a 16-inch WO rim.
At that kind of rim inner diameter,
you typically shouldn't weave in the final crosses of tangent lacing,
or it becomes impossible to do so, but
on this one I wove in all final crosses on both wheels front and rear.
This wasn't so much accounting for the possibility of tie-and-sew—
I just felt it was the better approach.