I received the front and rear wheels from a Speed 40C from a customer.
Starting with the front wheel.
They wanted both wheels inspected,
but the main reason they sent these wheels
was to deal with the hub shaft showing signs of imminent thread stripping.
The 14mm grip width is just barely hanging on.
If it gets any more worn, I'll have to replace the hub shaft immediately.
According to the customer, it won't come out no matter what they try,
and if I can't remove it either, we're looking at a forceful hub shaft replacement.
The 14mm wrench alone—even one sized to the right width—
would slip and risk stripping it further,
so I inserted a 5mm hex wrench into the right end
and held both tools simultaneously.
On the left end side, I used a specialized hex wrench from WERA (Wera),
a tool I keep specifically for this job and don't use for anything else.
Rather than gripping the hex "flats,"
it grips the "corners,"
which means even if the hex hole is stripped
or has loose dimensional tolerances,
there's minimal play and it holds firm.
Got it out.
I applied grease to the left end threads
and tightened it lightly to a point where it absolutely cannot be loosened by hand
(stopping the moment I felt the underside seat contact pressure),
so the left end should loosen first in the future.
The rim is slightly shifted to the right
(the side opposite the bearing adjustment nut).
↑About this much.
There's virtually no lateral runout,
but among the 18 spokes, 7 consecutive ones showed radial runout.
The rim is deflected outward,
and it seems unlikely the other 11 were tensioned equally,
so I suspect this is original.
There were no trace marks on the nipples,
but normally you can turn them without leaving marks,
so I can't determine the truing history.
I did radial and lateral truing plus centering.
Next, the rear wheel.
I always check both wheels first to make sure the valve bushes haven't been lost—
no issues this time.
For the rear wheel, I also check whether the right end reverse-thread locknut
can loosen by hand. Call it an occupational habit.
The right end nut was tight,
but I loosened it with a tool and added grease around the freehub pawls.
The hub had no play, so I didn't disassemble it.
For the front wheel, I removed the hub shaft once
and applied grease between the right cone and hub shaft
(I didn't add grease around the bearing balls).
The rim is shifted to the left.
With normal use over time, it shifts right,
so I believe this shift is original.
I could easily fix this by loosening the non-freewheel side nipples,
but I generally avoid loosening-side adjustments,
so I'll do the truing and centering with a tightening bias on the 14 freewheel-side spokes.
The rear wheel also had radial runout on two adjacent spoke pairs (out of seven 2:1 paired bundles, excluding the rest position).
I did radial and lateral truing plus centering.
Starting with the front wheel.
They wanted both wheels inspected,
but the main reason they sent these wheels
was to deal with the hub shaft showing signs of imminent thread stripping.
The 14mm grip width is just barely hanging on.
If it gets any more worn, I'll have to replace the hub shaft immediately.
According to the customer, it won't come out no matter what they try,
and if I can't remove it either, we're looking at a forceful hub shaft replacement.
The 14mm wrench alone—even one sized to the right width—
would slip and risk stripping it further,
so I inserted a 5mm hex wrench into the right end
and held both tools simultaneously.
On the left end side, I used a specialized hex wrench from WERA (Wera),
a tool I keep specifically for this job and don't use for anything else.
Rather than gripping the hex "flats,"
it grips the "corners,"
which means even if the hex hole is stripped
or has loose dimensional tolerances,
there's minimal play and it holds firm.
Got it out.
I applied grease to the left end threads
and tightened it lightly to a point where it absolutely cannot be loosened by hand
(stopping the moment I felt the underside seat contact pressure),
so the left end should loosen first in the future.
The rim is slightly shifted to the right
(the side opposite the bearing adjustment nut).
↑About this much.
There's virtually no lateral runout,
but among the 18 spokes, 7 consecutive ones showed radial runout.
The rim is deflected outward,
and it seems unlikely the other 11 were tensioned equally,
so I suspect this is original.
There were no trace marks on the nipples,
but normally you can turn them without leaving marks,
so I can't determine the truing history.
I did radial and lateral truing plus centering.
Next, the rear wheel.
I always check both wheels first to make sure the valve bushes haven't been lost—
no issues this time.
For the rear wheel, I also check whether the right end reverse-thread locknut
can loosen by hand. Call it an occupational habit.
The right end nut was tight,
but I loosened it with a tool and added grease around the freehub pawls.
The hub had no play, so I didn't disassemble it.
For the front wheel, I removed the hub shaft once
and applied grease between the right cone and hub shaft
(I didn't add grease around the bearing balls).
The rim is shifted to the left.
With normal use over time, it shifts right,
so I believe this shift is original.
I could easily fix this by loosening the non-freewheel side nipples,
but I generally avoid loosening-side adjustments,
so I'll do the truing and centering with a tightening bias on the 14 freewheel-side spokes.
The rear wheel also had radial runout on two adjacent spoke pairs (out of seven 2:1 paired bundles, excluding the rest position).
I did radial and lateral truing plus centering.