Today it's wheels again (and so on).
I'm going to rebuild the rear wheel,
which is the counterpart to the front wheel of the Hologram 35 that I rebuilt the other day.
The front wheel was an XI-pattern 2:1 lacing,
but the rear wheel has the anti-freewheel side (disc brake side)
in radial lacing, perhaps out of caution,
and uses a standard left-right equal-spoke-count 28H configuration.
If you don't think about what happens while braking the rear brake
(that moment doesn't exist for me, though)
left-right equal-spoke-count left-right tangential lacing and
2:1 lacing anti-freewheel side radial lacing
both have their pros and cons,
(↑both exist even on rim brake rear wheels),
but in contrast to those,
2:1 lacing anti-freewheel side tangential lacing is a poor choice
(↑this is a lacing pattern that doesn't exist on rim brake rear wheels,
meaning there's a bias in disc brakes that causes this).
Both Roval and GIANT's SLR,
when they're rim brake rear wheels,
use 2:1 lacing anti-freewheel side radial lacing.
Compared to those ↑ crappy wheels (※),
a standard left-right equal-spoke-count rear wheel is somewhat better,
and has more room for improvement when rebuilding.
※The CADEX with carbon spoke specifications is an exception.
On both sides of the rim's valve hole,
there are ETRTO markings, and
the "disc brake only!" sticker
is facing the wrong way when viewed from the right side of the wheel.
This rim is not an offset rim, and
on the rim's outer circumference (the surface where rim tape is applied)
there's no sticker instructing which way the freewheel body should face,
so when rebuilding, even if I change the left-right orientation of the rim,
it shouldn't be a problem,
but the rim holes have hole drilling for 2:1 lacing and
the front wheel, which clearly has left-right attributes,
has the same sticker orientation as in the image above,
so I'll rebuild without changing the left-right orientation of the rim.
The spokes are 2.0–1.8–2.0mm
round butted black straight spokes.
The length, if the rear hub's flange diameter were equal left and right,
would be about 2mm different in terms of dish amount,
but since it's slightly high-low flanged,
it's probably about 1mm difference.
Whether that's laziness or rational is debatable, but
I thought they might be using the same length spokes left and right
and absorbing the difference through nipple thread redundancy,
and they were.
The length is 297mm.
I was planning to rebuild with the freewheel side spokes reused and
the anti-freewheel side changed to CX-RAY—roughly a semi-competition build—but
even if the freewheel side were 296mm and
the anti-freewheel side were 297mm,
the anti-freewheel side spokes that weren't used in the rebuild
could be trimmed by 1mm and used for freewheel side repairs.
In this case, since the spokes are the same length left and right,
I can use them as-is without cutting.
Even from this state—where left and right spokes of the same length
are bundled together—I can still identify which were originally
freewheel side and which were originally anti-freewheel side.
I pulled out three at a time, six total.
The three on the right are the original freewheel side.
↑The wear marks at the contact point of the final crossing are in different positions.
28 spokes at 297mm weighed 176.4g total.
So the spoke specific gravity is 176.4÷28÷297÷0.0257 which
equals 0.825374..., or roughly 82.5%.
I use 85% as my rough estimate for 2.0–1.8–2.0mm round butted spokes.
So if I hear "2.0–1.8–2.0mm spokes, 28 spokes, 297mm,"
I'd answer that such a bundle of spokes would be about 181g,
based on 0.0257×0.85×297×28.
DT Competition butted spokes have
longer 2.0mm sections at both ends,
(convenient since you can cut 20mm off the spoke length,
though with Sapim Race it's about 6mm limit like CX-RAY),
so the actual spoke specific gravity is around 86.5%.
These spokes have a higher proportion of the 1.8mm section compared to Competition,
and as straight spokes they lack the weight of the butted section,
so the spoke specific gravity—which uses
Champion 14 plain with neck as 100%—comes out somewhat lower.
If I use CX Sprint (roughly 78%) for the anti-freewheel side,
it hardly becomes a left-right different-diameter lacing,
so I'll use CX-RAY (roughly 65%).
I got it laced.
I'm using black CX-RAY straight spokes on the anti-freewheel side.
I'll do the truing later.
The XERO brand spokes on the freewheel side,
but as I wrote when doing the front wheel,
have an excessively glossy black finish coating, and
after rebuilding are under more tension than before,
yet when I grip the final crossing, it creaks with a loud squeaking sound.
Well, in actual riding, that degree of concentrated stress
probably won't be applied to the final crossing through hand squeezing,
so there might be almost no noise.
Otherwise, the stock Hologram rear wheel
would constantly creak and squeak with noise.
With stock wheels, the anti-freewheel side would probably
make more noise, but
the black CX-RAY (in its un-trued state) on the rebuilt
wheel makes almost no sound.
The rear wheel, while you could rebuild it from a half-disassembly
where you only disassemble the anti-freewheel side,
it's actually easier to do a full disassembly,
so I did a full disassembly.
Of course, I weighed the rim,
and in the 35mm deep rim class (including Shimano's 36mm TL rim, etc.),
this rim is slightly on the lighter side, so I was surprised.
The thing is, this isn't the only wheel—
some of the Hologram complete wheels have
carbon rims that are, quite frankly, incredibly heavy—
they're iron-shoe wheels that are all show and no go,
and these have been widely adopted on complete bikes
ranging from Tiagra to Ultegra component levels,
so I've sometimes thought it's unfortunate that
people unfamiliar with the specifics misunderstand
and say "Cannondale has a heavy, sluggish feel"
because of wheel (rim) weight.
As for the weight of this rim,
I have no intention of telling anyone.
↑what a rotten attitude to have in 2025
Sorry for the wait! Please check out this image!
This is the front rim!
This is the rear rim!
↑Stop it!
I'm going to rebuild the rear wheel,
which is the counterpart to the front wheel of the Hologram 35 that I rebuilt the other day.
The front wheel was an XI-pattern 2:1 lacing,
but the rear wheel has the anti-freewheel side (disc brake side)
in radial lacing, perhaps out of caution,
and uses a standard left-right equal-spoke-count 28H configuration.
If you don't think about what happens while braking the rear brake
left-right equal-spoke-count left-right tangential lacing and
2:1 lacing anti-freewheel side radial lacing
both have their pros and cons,
(↑both exist even on rim brake rear wheels),
but in contrast to those,
2:1 lacing anti-freewheel side tangential lacing is a poor choice
(↑this is a lacing pattern that doesn't exist on rim brake rear wheels,
meaning there's a bias in disc brakes that causes this).
Both Roval and GIANT's SLR,
when they're rim brake rear wheels,
use 2:1 lacing anti-freewheel side radial lacing.
Compared to those ↑ crappy wheels (※),
a standard left-right equal-spoke-count rear wheel is somewhat better,
and has more room for improvement when rebuilding.
※The CADEX with carbon spoke specifications is an exception.
On both sides of the rim's valve hole,
there are ETRTO markings, and
the "disc brake only!" sticker
is facing the wrong way when viewed from the right side of the wheel.
This rim is not an offset rim, and
on the rim's outer circumference (the surface where rim tape is applied)
there's no sticker instructing which way the freewheel body should face,
so when rebuilding, even if I change the left-right orientation of the rim,
it shouldn't be a problem,
but the rim holes have hole drilling for 2:1 lacing and
the front wheel, which clearly has left-right attributes,
has the same sticker orientation as in the image above,
so I'll rebuild without changing the left-right orientation of the rim.
The spokes are 2.0–1.8–2.0mm
round butted black straight spokes.
The length, if the rear hub's flange diameter were equal left and right,
would be about 2mm different in terms of dish amount,
but since it's slightly high-low flanged,
it's probably about 1mm difference.
Whether that's laziness or rational is debatable, but
I thought they might be using the same length spokes left and right
and absorbing the difference through nipple thread redundancy,
and they were.
The length is 297mm.
I was planning to rebuild with the freewheel side spokes reused and
the anti-freewheel side changed to CX-RAY—roughly a semi-competition build—but
even if the freewheel side were 296mm and
the anti-freewheel side were 297mm,
the anti-freewheel side spokes that weren't used in the rebuild
could be trimmed by 1mm and used for freewheel side repairs.
In this case, since the spokes are the same length left and right,
I can use them as-is without cutting.
Even from this state—where left and right spokes of the same length
are bundled together—I can still identify which were originally
freewheel side and which were originally anti-freewheel side.
I pulled out three at a time, six total.
The three on the right are the original freewheel side.
↑The wear marks at the contact point of the final crossing are in different positions.
28 spokes at 297mm weighed 176.4g total.
So the spoke specific gravity is 176.4÷28÷297÷0.0257 which
equals 0.825374..., or roughly 82.5%.
I use 85% as my rough estimate for 2.0–1.8–2.0mm round butted spokes.
So if I hear "2.0–1.8–2.0mm spokes, 28 spokes, 297mm,"
I'd answer that such a bundle of spokes would be about 181g,
based on 0.0257×0.85×297×28.
DT Competition butted spokes have
longer 2.0mm sections at both ends,
(convenient since you can cut 20mm off the spoke length,
though with Sapim Race it's about 6mm limit like CX-RAY),
so the actual spoke specific gravity is around 86.5%.
These spokes have a higher proportion of the 1.8mm section compared to Competition,
and as straight spokes they lack the weight of the butted section,
so the spoke specific gravity—which uses
Champion 14 plain with neck as 100%—comes out somewhat lower.
If I use CX Sprint (roughly 78%) for the anti-freewheel side,
it hardly becomes a left-right different-diameter lacing,
so I'll use CX-RAY (roughly 65%).
I got it laced.
I'm using black CX-RAY straight spokes on the anti-freewheel side.
I'll do the truing later.
The XERO brand spokes on the freewheel side,
but as I wrote when doing the front wheel,
have an excessively glossy black finish coating, and
after rebuilding are under more tension than before,
yet when I grip the final crossing, it creaks with a loud squeaking sound.
Well, in actual riding, that degree of concentrated stress
probably won't be applied to the final crossing through hand squeezing,
so there might be almost no noise.
Otherwise, the stock Hologram rear wheel
would constantly creak and squeak with noise.
With stock wheels, the anti-freewheel side would probably
make more noise, but
the black CX-RAY (in its un-trued state) on the rebuilt
wheel makes almost no sound.
The rear wheel, while you could rebuild it from a half-disassembly
where you only disassemble the anti-freewheel side,
it's actually easier to do a full disassembly,
so I did a full disassembly.
Of course, I weighed the rim,
and in the 35mm deep rim class (including Shimano's 36mm TL rim, etc.),
this rim is slightly on the lighter side, so I was surprised.
The thing is, this isn't the only wheel—
some of the Hologram complete wheels have
carbon rims that are, quite frankly, incredibly heavy—
they're iron-shoe wheels that are all show and no go,
and these have been widely adopted on complete bikes
ranging from Tiagra to Ultegra component levels,
so I've sometimes thought it's unfortunate that
people unfamiliar with the specifics misunderstand
and say "Cannondale has a heavy, sluggish feel"
because of wheel (rim) weight.
As for the weight of this rim,
I have no intention of telling anyone.
↑what a rotten attitude to have in 2025
Sorry for the wait! Please check out this image!
This is the front rim!
This is the rear rim!
↑Stop it!